Unusual Cyclone Mount

[Rob Will]

Today, we got the used Oneida cyclone and blower mounted to the shop wall. The stand is a bit unusual. It is constructed from two 16' high 3x3 steel tubes bolted to the wall.

The blower used to be a floor mounted belt drive unit. All the ducts took up too much room so we built this stand to mount the blower directly on top of the cyclone.

Should service be required, three bolts removes the cyclone, and four bolts (welded on the back side) allow removal of the entire blower unit. It's about 15 feet to the blower (heavy) so a forklift comes in handy;) .

The cyclone inlet is directly in line with my main DC pipe at about 140" from the floor. The cyclone is located just outside of my WW shop area in a semi-heated garage. The cyclone outlet is about 6 feet from the floor.

The whole thing is isolated from the floor & wall with 1/2" thick soft rubber pads (not touching the building anywhere):). I hope this works.

Rob

[Mike Heidrick]

How are you going to start this cyclone? LVC, Big Starter, RPC?

I am working on a remote setup for an LVC for a 5hp single phase unit.

Curious to know your plan.

[Rob Will]

Mike,
For right now I'm going to use four 24V start / stop stations at various locations around the shop. The transformer gets it's primary power from one leg of my magnetic starter. 18-4 low voltage wire hidden inside the shop walls.

I thought about using a current sensing relay to make everything automatic, but for my application, that is overkill. Occasionally, I get bored and do something like fire up the Moak 36 to cut a paint paddle in half.......hardly worth firing up the DC as well:rolleyes:.

Rob

[Mike Heidrick]

What about a 110V coiled 30amp DC relay to start that 24V LV circuit and then use a $10 15amp 110V wireless remote to close that 110V coil?

This is what I am trying to do.

[Rob Will]

What about a 110V coiled 30amp DC relay to start that 24V LV circuit and then use a $10 15amp 110V wireless remote to close that 110V coil?

This is what I am trying to do.

Mike,
Not sure I understand. I'm guessing you want to do this so that your low voltage control circuit is not hot all the time?
Rob

[Mike Heidrick]

I want to use a 110V remote to start the 24V circuit on the LVC to start the contactor. This will also allow me to use the original LVC tool mounted momentary switch (instead of the remote) and any other switches I might want to install (say at each tool).

Gives the option of using a remote or the push buttons to start the cyclone.

[Rob Will]

Now I understand what you are working on.
Start / Stop stations have two switches. 1 normaly open (Start), and 1 normaly closed (stop).

For multiple stations, your control circuit usually has 4 wires:

All of the "start" buttons are wired parallel.
All of the "stop" buttons are wired in seriesIf the 110V remote has two internal relays, one (NO) for start, and one (NC) for stop, you might be able to wire it in with other control stations. The probem is that you have to have a normaly closed switch in that remote so it can be wired in series with all the other stop buttons. Without that, one potential problem might be that if you start the DC from the remote, you could only stop it from the remote.

A solution might be to add a latching relay to the remote. Run the "run hold" wire across all of your "stop" buttons in series. Geez, I'm repeating myself......somebody straighten this out.

Rob

[John Bush]

Hi Rob,
Let me know how the rubber washers work to isolate the vibration. I mounted my 2hp cyclone in an attached shed to the adjoining wall of my shop and at times I feel like I created a monster woofer. I placed rubber from an old conveyer belt and it may be too dense to absorb the vibration. It isn't bad, but I don't have anything to compare to. Thanks, John.

[Rob Will]

Hi Rob,
Let me know how the rubber washers work to isolate the vibration. I mounted my 2hp cyclone in an attached shed to the adjoining wall of my shop and at times I feel like I created a monster woofer. I placed rubber from an old conveyer belt and it may be too dense to absorb the vibration. It isn't bad, but I don't have anything to compare to. Thanks, John.

I went to a rubber and gasket supply house and had them cut the washers out of soft gum rubber on a CNC water jet machine. The holes in the 4x4" base angle are drilled 1". A small section of rubber hose isolates the bolts as they pass through the 1" hole. All of the bolts are 1/2" diameter. I'm also going to isolate the metal suction pipe from the cyclone and motor.

I'm guessing here but note that my mounting frame is transferring most of the weight to the floor. That way, I don't have to bolt so tightly to the building and nothing is bolted or otherwise touching out in the middle of the wall.

Can you blow your wall full of celluose insulation?

Rob

[Jim Becker]

Nice installation, Rob. I'm glad you were able to get the blower mounted the way you wanted to. Looks good!

Good choice on the LV wired remotes. I did the single wireless thing for awhile and then had multiple wireless keys at various places in the shop...until I determined that the system I was using was not going to provide long life with my larger cyclone. At that point, I went to a single, centrally mounted switch to trigger the contactor that now powers the cyclone. I'm fine with the single switch, although maybe I'll do a LV multi-station control circuit in the future.

[Rob Will]

Thanks Jim. I never got a chance to talk to Oneida but the local motor shop said that the motor would be ok standing on end. I'll set the heaters in the starter pretty close so that if anything starts changing, it will kick out and give me a clue for a closer inspection.

The next big challenge is to fabricate a sound isolated and insulated transition connecting the blower housing to the filter plenum.

Rob