May have hosed myself; 1/4" shank rail/stile router bit?

[Zach Logan]

I've been commissioned by The Boss to build some "cabinetry". I've got a fair bit of 3/4" oak to turn into door rails and stiles. Upon returning from the router bit gettin' place with a 1/2" shank ogee rail/stile bit, I realized 1. I need to replicate a "round" profile and 2. I don't have a 1/2" collet router.

Are there such bits? I haven't seen any yet...Normally this would be a perfect opportunity to retool, but I don't have the budget.

Could I make the profile with different bits, doing parts of the profile one at a time? Not time efficient, but I may not have a choice...

Alternately, are there any SMCers in 73110 with a bigger router and nothing to do tomorrow? :D

[Mike Heidrick]

What router do you have?

[Zach Logan]

I'll sheepishly admit to having a fixed base craftsman 1.5 HP, complete with apparently permanent 1/4" collet, made just after the recall on previous production runs. So basically, a router-shaped paperweight. Or perfect if I ever need to make cabinets for a dollhouse.

It matches my table saw, which is also just post-recall, and my boat, which had a hole in the transom seal; all purchased by the LOML. I hadn't thought of this disturbing pattern until now. I better go out and make sure all my lugnuts are tight and check my brake fluid...

[Gary Curtis]

Last week I bought my first Rail & Stile bits. Your post got me thinking because I hadn't seen any 1/4 inch shank bits advertised. So I checked 4 catalogs.

The only one I can find with the 1/4 size is Lee Valley. Good hunting.

Gary Curtis

[Don Bullock]

...Are there such bits? I haven't seen any yet...Normally this would be a perfect opportunity to retool, but I don't have the budget.

... :D

That would be my choice if faced with your situation. I'd find a way to budget the expence.

[Todd Jensen]

Exactly, or tell the boss she has to wait until you can. You want to be safe running through hard oak. What is the round profile/for what part of the doors/drawers? You could use a 1/4" shank round over bit, hit both sides and smooth the transition if its for the outer edges.

[Rick Gooden]

You don't mention a router table, without that I'm not sure how you will use the rail and stile bits anyway.

[Zach Logan]

The cabinets I have already have this joint:
http://routerbitworld.com/v/vspfiles/v4_backup/product_images/99-290.jpg
so the round part is on the inside edge of the door.

I think doing it piecemeal, if even possible (the female side of the round is the eluding me), would be a pain to fit snug. I borrowed a small table and router from my brother, more for the table. It also has 1/4 collet, but I just now thought to look if it can be changed. I was really looking at putting together a saw extension soon anyway, but was just going to get this knocked out instead. Ha. So maybe I'll tool up first, get MY table together, then carry on.

I should probably prepare my "increase in woodworking line item expenditure" speech right now. She is always asking "Can you make this or that"; I always reply, "I could make it rain, I just need the right tools."

[Steven Wilson]

I wouldn't want to spin a larger profile bit with a 1/4" shaft. It's time to step up to a more capable router.

[Todd Jensen]

I agree with Steve. Its likely that you would be fine, but a 2hp router will provide a considerable margin of safety. I have and like this Dewalt combo: http://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DW618PK-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00006JKXE/ref=sr_1_3/002-9631212-1162409?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1184009171&sr=8-3

It has lasted me a long time and I have used it for a lot of projects.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z66/grizzified/Volute%20Router%20Jig/Routerjiginaction.jpg

[Brad Sperr]

Todd, can you tell me more about your router setup? Is that stand something you fabricated?


I agree with Steve. Its likely that you would be fine, but a 2hp router will provide a considerable margin of safety. I have and like this Dewalt combo: http://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DW618PK-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00006JKXE/ref=sr_1_3/002-9631212-1162409?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1184009171&sr=8-3

It has lasted me a long time and I have used it for a lot of projects.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z66/grizzified/Volute%20Router%20Jig/Routerjiginaction.jpg

[Todd Jensen]

Hi Brad. Yes, I fabricated that funky contraption myself. I was asked to shape 3 custom handrail fittings, 2 wreathes and a climbing 180. I actually discovered this forum while looking for information on this project, and your resident stair maestro, Richard Wolf, was kind enough to give me some information and email me pictures of his Scheer router. I based the jig loosely on these pictures(much more loosely than I'd hoped:) ), but it worked to rough out the fittings. I then used a Foredom rotary tool to finish shaping them and then a lot of hours of 80 grit by hand - due to the hard and brittle nature of the laminated oak it was pretty much impossible to do any hand carving without chipout.

[Don Bullock]

I've been commissioned by The Boss to build some "cabinetry"...:D

Zach, if "The Boss" is the same as SWMBO, then you definately need a new router and table for this project.;) I misread your post thinking that your "daytime job" boss had asked you to build the "cabinetry." Whenever SWMBO comes up with a project it's definately time for new tools. Maybe you can even get a Domino out of the project. I understand that they are "needed" to put cabinets together. There's evena post today on how to use one to put on drawer fronts. You definately need at least the router and table.:D

[Todd Jensen]

:D Don, I like the way you think.

[Tim Marks]

Hi Brad. Yes, I fabricated that funky contraption myself.

Do you have any pictures from any different angles of that jig? I hadn;t ever thought of a none table mount, and something like that just might be the key to some difficult cutting prolbems.

[Charles McCracken]

Zach,

If you can't justify the larger router you may want to consider two other options for making the doors:
1. Make a simple tongue and groove frame and apply the 1/4 round molding after assembly
2. Make the sticking cuts in two passes. First pass to make the round and second with a groover. Then remove and miter the molding at the intersection. Lastly dowel or loose tenon the joints together

[Skyp Nelson]

Hi
I'm new to this forum, and still fairly new to woodworking. I have just finished a set of 9 doors, using 1/4" bits(Hickory). I won't saw it was a nightmare, buy it was definitely a PITA. I too have a CM 1.5 router (used a HF router speed control). It handled the end (cope?) cuts ok, but when I routed the l-o-n-g cuts in the rails, the bit rose in the collet. The only solution that worked for me was finding an el' cheapo 3.5 hp router at a swap meet, and made a quickie router table to fit it. To make a long story short: wait until you can get the right router. Both you and the boss will be happier.

Side note: I made the Mrs wait 2 years for these doors. I tried tongue and groove when I first started woodworking, and it turned out so ugly I knew better than to try and hang them. I asked her to please wait until I grew in skill, and gained a few tools (and not the "honey, I only need this tool, oh and that one" game) that I would make it worth her wait. When I hung the first completed doors, I thought she was going to cry:)

[Zach Logan]

Yeah, sorry, the boss at home. She is definitely onto my tool acquisition antics. There aren't many things in my garage that didn't stem from either necessity or convenience in finishing one of "our" projects...