How To Hang DC Pipe?

[Rob Will]

I need to hang a 10" spiral pipe on the wall for my DC.

The wall framing is 2x6 16" OC. The upper 7 feet of my 16' wall is to be covered with white corrugated metal ( I put a small sample piece on the wall to illustrate this). The metal will go all the way to the ceiling and the pipe will stand off from the wall by about 3". The blue tape shown in the pictures represents the approx. height of the DC pipe.

There is some 2x6 blocking in the wall about 1 foot above the location for the DC pipe. Can add more if I need to.

Considering that the metal has a 3/4" high rib that does not correspond to the stud locations, what sort of bracket or hangers can I attach to the wall that will support the DC pipe?

Thanks for your ideas.

Rob

[Jason Beam]

This may sound low-tech, but I just used plumber's tape wrapped around and screwed to a stud just above the pipe itself. It's really just kinda hanging there. You won't need 'em every 16", maybe every 32". This method works really good for my needs. I don't know if vibration would be an issue, though.

I know that for small diameter pipes, they make these hook-shaped things that work in a similar way. But I'm not sure i've seen those for larger diameter pipes.

[Mike Heidrick]

10" - sounds like the size of a Delta 5hp machine? :)

I visited a shop last week where a guy attached 1X4s between studs then anchored his ductwork strap to the 1X where he needed to.

What DC are you connecting up???

[Mike Heidrick]

Just checked some history and I saw the 7.5hp oneida cyclone setup. Should be a very sweet setup!!

[Rob Will]

Just checked some history and I saw the 7.5hp oneida cyclone setup. Should be a very sweet setup!!

Yep, it's the 7.5 Oneida. Electrical wiring was done today. Will try to get the cyclone mounted to the wall this week. Steel tube support frame is done and painted machine tool green. Currently sitting on sawhorses out in the driveway.

Rob

[Mike Heidrick]

Can you please tell me more about the filters you will be running.

What diameter hose to the filters?
What size - do you have a link to the filters?
Where did you get them?
How much $ for the filters?
Do you have pictures of them?

[Rob Will]

Can you please tell me more about the filters you will be running.

What diameter hose to the filters?
What size - do you have a link to the filters?
Where did you get them?
How much $ for the filters?
Do you have pictures of them?

Mike,
I bought a used (new in 2002) Oneida system from a cabinet shop that was upgrading. They installed a 3-head sander and this system did not like that much fine sanding dust.

The filters will be hard piped directly to the blower outlet. The whole thing goes up next to the ceiling where I can still walk under the filters.
(I have a 16' ceiling).

The filter plenum has 3 of the 18x62 pleated spun bound polyester filters from Oneida. Each has a removable metal dust tray.

Now I need some hangers to stand the main suction line off from the wall.
Any suggestions?

Rob

[Mike Heidrick]

Mike,

Now I need some hangers to stand the main suction line off from the wall.
Any suggestions?

Rob

What about buying and using long industrial zip ties (1/2" or larger) with a wooden 2X I-Beam screwed to two 1Xs that are attached to studs. Maybe on that wooden I beam you make use a mortiser to make the slots to run the zip ties through. This soltion should be cheap to make, paintable to match the walls, solid if you use 2X for the beam, and removable by just loosening the zip ties. Use feet on the 1Xs to span the ribs.

[Doug Shepard]

Am I right in thinking that this doesn't really need to support any weight but just work as standoffs to hold it away from the wall? I'm thinking any weight support hangers would be needed once the duct is running horizontal. So I'm wondering about just using simple plywood spacers with a 5" radius half circle cut out. You could screw them to the studs, notch them out on the back to span the ribbing, line them with rubber or carpeting for vibration, etc. Then just use whatever works to go around the duct and hold it in the half-circle cutout.

[glenn bradley]

This previous thread on 6" may help:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=57726&highlight=bradley

[Randy Denby]

How about unistrut welded into an ell shape, then use allthread and a short piece of unistrut underneath....could also just hang allthread from the ceiling. Just throwing ideas out.

[Al Killian]

I made some hangers by cutting a half circle out of scrap 2x4 and mountd it to the wall. In the notch was a strip of rubber roofing to help the vibration. It has help up for a year now with no problems.

[Rob Will]

I'm thinking about switching the wall treatment to 1/2" plywood instead of the corrugated metal. If I do that, I can fasten a bracket at any stud location without having to worry about the metal corrugation.

You guys have given me an idea:

Use a short piece of 2x6 with a saddle cut into it to fit the pipe. Attach the 2x6 to the wall using long pocket hole screws. Paint the 2x6 to match the wall.

Your opinion?

Rob

[Ryan Myers]

I don't think the pocket hole screws can handle the amount of weight leveraging on the board.

You could use these.

http://www.b-line.com/product/PDFLibrary/pipehangers/index.htm

This is what most mechanical contractors use to hang large diameter pipe.

Otherwise how about making a 2x4 "L" shape bracket w/angled brace below. Then use 3/16" or 1/4" all thread and bend around the top of the duct and through holes in 2x's to secure the duct work.

Just my .02 worth.

[Rob Will]

I don't think the pocket hole screws can handle the amount of weight leveraging on the board.

Point well taken Ryan.
As Dan suggested:
So how about making the bracket out of plywood to spread the screw spacing out a bit? If the pocket hole screws are a problem, I suppose one could simply edge drill the plywood and use a 4-5" long screw in the top holes (?).

Rob

[Al Killian]

For mine, I mounted the 2x to a square peice of 1/2" ply. Then the ply can get screwed to the stud, plus it will hold plenty of weight.

[Steven Wilson]

You could run some 1x2 down the path of your pipe with standoffs (piece of 1x2) to clear the corregation. Then you can mount the pipe using standard straping (get the big roll of strapping from Oneida).

[Steve Clardy]

Point well taken Ryan.
As Dan suggested:
So how about making the bracket out of plywood to spread the screw spacing out a bit? If the pocket hole screws are a problem, I suppose one could simply edge drill the plywood and use a 4-5" long screw in the top holes (?).

Rob


Perfect. I like that idea.

[Joe Jensen]

What about buying and using long industrial zip ties (1/2" or larger) with a wooden 2X I-Beam screwed to two 1Xs that are attached to studs. Maybe on that wooden I beam you make use a mortiser to make the slots to run the zip ties through. This soltion should be cheap to make, paintable to match the walls, solid if you use 2X for the beam, and removable by just loosening the zip ties. Use feet on the 1Xs to span the ribs.

I used 200lb rating ZIP ties to mount my 6" duct to the ceiling. It's been about 1 year and I fear I may have to redo them with something else. None of the pipe mount ZIP ties have broken, but others have. Might be due to the high heat here in AZ. It is regulary 105F plus in my insulated garage...joe

[Rob Russell]

Rob,

10" pipe sounds like an awfully large diameter pipe, especially if you're going to be running 1 machine. I'd be concerned about particle dropout in the ducting because the airspeed drops below what's needed to keep it suspended.

For suspending the stuff, I'd use Unistrut/Bline. Mount brackets to the wall and then get the rubber insulated pipe hangers. It would cost more, but would greatly reduce vibrtion transmission from the ducting to your walls, which means quieter.

Rob

[Al Barale]

Rob
When I put up my ductwork, I made some L shape brackets out of angle iron then made up saddles to support the ductwork and screwed both sides of the saddle to the bracket.


Regards,
Al