What type of switch is in the HF 2HP dust collection system - where to get it too

[Chris Kalkowski]

I just bought a dust collection system that a guy hard wired so that when the plug get put in - the machine turns on

Can any of you help me - the system states:

2HP 20 AMP single phase 60HZ 3450RPM

if that helps

It is the toggle switch that is missing. Thanks in advance for the help

[Jason Beam]

You can use a regular wall-switch if you like IF it's wired for 110v. If it's wired for 220v, you need a double-pole switch. I think they make 220v DPST switches that look like regular wall switches.

If you're looking for the exact switch, i'd give harbor freight a call. I've never had to order parts from them.

[Chris Kalkowski]

The way it is wired it has two black wires and two white wires-- does a common 20A wall switch work for that.

[Jason Beam]

Unfortunately, that isn't enough info to tell how it's wired. But the fact that there are two tells me it's capable of 220v operation and the original switch used a dual pole switch.

Does the plug look like a normal 110v plug?

[Chris Kalkowski]

The plug looks like one you would see on a band saw - not a house. It has four leads (if that is the correct term) two for the black wires- two for the white wires.

[Jason Beam]

Hmm ... maybe we have something very unique here. My bandsaw's plug (14" jet) is just a standard grounded 110v plug like you'd find on a computer or vacuum cleaner.

You have 4 prongs on your plug? That tells me it's very likely to be wired for 220v. You'd need a DPST switch if that's the case.

Any chance you can take a pic of the plug?

[Mike Heidrick]

I had a HFDC and had to replace the factory switch as it was junk and the plastic switch failed.

First off the HFDC is 110V.

You can just use a single pole switch if you cannot find a dual pole.
Hard wire the two white wires together. This is the return/common.
Then use a single pole switch to switch the two black wires.

[Dave Sweeney]

On my HF DC I leave the switch in the on position all the time. I turn it off and on using a very inexpensive remote switch that I picked up at the farm supply store. IIRC, the remote setup only cost around $9 and it's been working without a hitch for a couple of years now.

[Chris Kalkowski]

Mike I am going to go with what you stated unless Dave can show a photo of his set up and I can find it cheap-- Rockler and others want too much for remote switches.

Anyone who has this, do the black wires go in the back (where the prongs are out more) the left side on the first picture.

Here are three angles.


Yes this is a cheap switch. I agree.


Hey thanks for all the help too. I received this hard wired so that it goes on when it is plugged in.

[Jason Beam]

I'd still like to see the plug on the cord before I'd suggest tying the two white wires together. I do notice that it sells as 110v only, but this machine's already been modified and I don't dare give advice without being fully sure.

[Chris Kalkowski]

I can take a picture of this too. The guy who owned it left the wires in the box alone. He just connected the contacts together - white to white and black to black so that it would run just by plugging it into the wall.

The plug is the original plug with the ground. The only modification was to connect the wires. I am going to take some photos tomorrow and post them. Hope this is educational for people with the DC too.

[Mike Heidrick]

I just checked the shop but I do not have another switch to send you. Try radioshack - they should have one that will fit.

The remote they are talking about is $10 at Menards if you have one local. I used one on the HFDC as well. In fact one will be installed on the 5HP Cyclone as well :cool: thanks to some creative contactor and relay wiring.

[Larry Crim]

Common problem I replaced mine with one from radio shack also.
Larry

[Dave Sweeney]

This isn't the exact wireless remote control switch that I use but the principle is the same. You should be able to find something similar locally. http://www.amazon.com/SVAT-WRC101-Wireless-Outdoor-Control/dp/B000HAVVKG

[Paul Douglass]

This isn't the exact wireless remote control switch that I use but the principle is the same. You should be able to find something similar locally. http://www.amazon.com/SVAT-WRC101-Wireless-Outdoor-Control/dp/B000HAVVKG


I just looked at this one on Amazon. Says for 10A. Doesn't a dust collector draw more tha 10a? I have a HF dust collector also. Would like a remote switch.

[Chris Kalkowski]

Thanks for all of the help. This is a great forum. People coming together to help others.


I appreciate it too.

[Dave Sweeney]

I just looked at this one on Amazon. Says for 10A. Doesn't a dust collector draw more tha 10a? I have a HF dust collector also. Would like a remote switch.

Paul, as I said, that wasn't the exact model that I use. I posted that Amazon link just to show Chris what style of a wireless remote I was referring too. The HF DC does indeed draw more than 10A. I believe they claim a 14A draw. The remote switch that I use is rated at 13A and works just fine.

[Tom Veatch]

Mike I am going to go with what you stated unless Dave can show a photo of his set up and I can find it cheap-- Rockler and others want too much for remote switches.

Anyone who has this, do the black wires go in the back (where the prongs are out more) the left side on the first picture.

Here are three angles.


Yes this is a cheap switch. I agree.


Hey thanks for all the help too. I received this hard wired so that it goes on when it is plugged in.

I'm having a hard time understanding this. There's been talk about the plug, but the pictures seem to be of the switch. One post claimed the switch was missing. Does that mean "missing" as in "not physically present", or as in "not wired into the circuit"?

Sounds to me like what happened, was that the previous owner simply cut the switch out of the circuit (connected the two blacks together and the two whites together). Other posts lead me to believe that it's a 110v machine and a 2HP, 20amp motor sounds like 110v or a seriously inefficient 220v system.

If that's the case, 110v system, the switch shown is a DPST switch where the black (hot) wires run through one pole and the white wires run through the other pole. IOW, both the hot and neutral wires are controlled by the switch. Not an unusual situation since the same switch can be used for a 220v circuit to control both hot legs of the circuit. To reconnect the switch, you'd need to determine which set of connectors belong to each pole. A circuit tester, or multimeter could tell you that.

Find out which contacts define a continuous path when the switch is ON (0 ohms on a multimeter, or a lighted bulb with a continuity tester). To do this, connect one of the leads from the tester/multimeter to one of the four contacts.

With the switch OFF, verify than none of the other three contacts show continuity. Touch each of the other three contacts with the other lead of the tester/multimeter. The light should not illuminate or the meter should show a very large or infinite resistance. Repeat the test with the tester/multimeter connected to a different contact. The results should be the same - no continuity with any of the other three contacts.

With the switch ON, find which of the remaining three contacts does show continuity - gives a lighted bulb or 0 ohm reading. Check all of the remaining three contacts. One and only one of the contacts should show continuity. The other two should give the same results as if the switch were OFF. There should only be ONE that gives a 0 ohm reading or illuminates the tester lamp.

Connect one black wire to each of the contacts that show continuity. Verify that the other two contacts show continuity with each other when the switch is ON and connect one white wire to each of them.

You should then be in business.

(If I were forced to guess, I would guess that in the leftmost picture, the two contacts at the top are one pole of the switch - are continuous when the switch is ON - and the two contacts at the bottom are the other pole. But that is strictly a guess based on an unwarranted assumption of symmetry in the switch. It could just as easily be that the two on the left are one pole and the two on the right are the other pole. If you connect the wires without doing a continuity test, be prepared for sparks to fly and, hopefully, breakers to trip when you plug it in.)

[Chris Kalkowski]

Tom

Thanks for all of the info. Sorry I haven't been too clear. I have been sick and writing this at the end of the night.

To clarify. I bought this DC and it was hard wired. I did not have the switch. I ran back to the guys house that I bought the DC from and he gave me the switch you saw.

I will be testing it with a multimeter tomorrow. Great idea. I went to harbor freight and seen the one there- same design four years later.

You were correct about the configuration too from what I saw at HF.

Thanks again everyone. Sorry for the confusion. I was also asked what type of plug I had too and the wires.

[Tom Veatch]

...I will be testing it with a multimeter tomorrow....

Strongly recommend that. This is one place that Murphy rules. If the chances of getting it right are 50%, the chances of getting it wrong are 99.9999....%.