How do you get a stain off the table saw?

[Bill Wyko]

My sheet rock guy left a drink on my new tablesaw and it left a ring I can't seem to get off. I know over time it'll show wear but It's brand new and it bugs the heck out of me.

[Jim O'Dell]

Go to Woodcraft, not sure if Rockler carries it or not, and get some of the cleaner that is the companion to the T-9 Boeshield. Nasty smelling stuff, but it works real well with rusty stains on cast iron. I used some 0000 steel wool with mine, but one of the scotch bright pads of the right "grit" would probably work better. Just apply with some elbow grease. I'd be sure to do the stain first, then do the whole top to even out the finish. If you just put a drop of this stuff on one spot of the top, it's like it bleaches it out. Looks funny. DAMHIKT.:D
Some people use WD-40 and a scotch bright pad. Might be worth a try to see if it works on yours. Didn't do much for my problems. Jim.

[Al Killian]

First off you give the drywall guy a stern waring/understanding about cast iron and drinks.:mad: After that you have him go get the stuff recommends and make him clean every machine in your place. Maybe then he will promise to never do it again.:D I have a sign in my shop waring others of there misfortune if they place anything on my machines other then wood. Sofar it has kept it from happening. Hopefully you will be able to get it out.

[Bill Wyko]

I would get on his kiester but he did the whole thing for a car alarm and 500 bucks. It was a lot of work with the vaulted ceiling and the loft so I can't complain too much. It took 3 guys 2 days and it looks very good. Thanks for the info on what to use. I'll give that a try.:)

[Bruce Page]

Arrrrgh!
People like that drive me nuts!
I have a friend that has to rub pretty much every machine whenever he comes in my shop.

[Gary Curtis]

I mistakenly sprayed Windex on my brand new tablesaw. The stains looked black by the next morning. I rigged up a Scrotchbrite pad in my palm sander, and started buffing with Auto paint polish and then working my way down through finer grits until I reached McGuires swirl remover.

Even after all that (it's messy), there are faint shadows on the bright steel top. I'll never let any water-based compounds in my shop, let alone Ammonia cleaners. Arghh!

Gary Curtis

[Mike Heidrick]

Go to Woodcraft, not sure if Rockler carries it or not, and get some of the cleaner that is the companion to the T-9 Boeshield. Nasty smelling stuff, but it works real well with rusty stains on cast iron. I used some 0000 steel wool with mine, but one of the scotch bright pads of the right "grit" would probably work better. Just apply with some elbow grease. I'd be sure to do the stain first, then do the whole top to even out the finish. If you just put a drop of this stuff on one spot of the top, it's like it bleaches it out. Looks funny. DAMHIKT.:D
Some people use WD-40 and a scotch bright pad. Might be worth a try to see if it works on yours. Didn't do much for my problems. Jim.


The Boeshield product is called Rust Free. Sears also sells it in a two pack with a bottle of the Boeshield T-9 protectant for $19.

[Rob Will]

Go to Woodcraft, not sure if Rockler carries it or not, and get some of the cleaner that is the companion to the T-9 Boeshield. Nasty smelling stuff, but it works real well with rusty stains on cast iron. I used some 0000 steel wool with mine, but one of the scotch bright pads of the right "grit" would probably work better. Just apply with some elbow grease. I'd be sure to do the stain first, then do the whole top to even out the finish. If you just put a drop of this stuff on one spot of the top, it's like it bleaches it out. Looks funny. DAMHIKT.:D
Some people use WD-40 and a scotch bright pad. Might be worth a try to see if it works on yours. Didn't do much for my problems. Jim.

I agree with Jim and Mike.

The product he is spesking of is "Rust Free" that is packaged with the T-9 Boeshield (developed by Boeing as a parts protectant coating). I use it all the time with a coarse Scotchbrite pad. If you really want to get with it, use a Scotchbrite pad on a DA sander along with the rust remover. Wipe your saw with paint thinner first to remove any wax or oily residues, let it dry then apply the Rust Free.

Start with the damaged area but plan on doing your entire saw table one section at a time. Let it sit for a couple of minutes then stir it around with the scuff pad.

When you are done cleaning, wipe the saw surface down with a soap and water solution (this neutralizes the rust remover). Dry your saw off in a hurry and apply some WD-40 before the saw starts to rust. When you are satisfied with the cleaning, you can put the Boeshield on later.

Use some gloves (nitrile etc.) and eye protection. Open your shop door and provide good ventilation, stay upwind if you can. I'm a farmer and no stranger to harsh chemicals but IMHO the rust free spray is pretty hot stuff ----( if you get it on your skin, or breath the fumes in an enclosed place. )

BTW: You won't get 100% of deep stains but you may get 95%. This is the best / strongest method I have found. You can also buy this product at Sears.

Plan on using a bunch of clean cotton rags.

Good luck,

Rob

[David DeCristoforo]

"I would get on his kiester but he did the whole thing for a car alarm and 500 bucks."

Well, here's one trick for future reference....Drop cloths!

[Pat Germain]

I'm wondering if the Rust Free stuff will get the copier toner stains off my jointer fence. (It came that way from the factory.) I guess it's worth a try. Nothing else I've tried has cleaned it.

[Tim Morton]

gojo and a wornout scotchbrite pad will get the stain off. then some wd-40 and some wet/dry sand paper.

[Phil Thien]

My experience w/ Rust Free on non-CI surface (steel) was a dulling (graying) of the finish. Can that happen w/ CI as well?

[Dennis Peacock]

Well...I always just use some WD-40 and some 600 grit sandpaper, then I wipe down with Acetone, dry, and recoat with more Johnson's Paste Wax. It works for me here in the humid south. ;)