Adding router to TS extension table. need advice.

[Joe Tonich]

I just ordered longer rails (52") for my Unifence from Delta and need to make an extension table for it. I want to make it my router table also. Looking for opinions on size, construction of it. Would a torsion box type table work or should I just laminate (2) 3/4" MDF together? Anyone have pic's of their set-up for combining their TS & Router table? Any advice is appreciated as I really only want to do this once.

Thanks,

Joe

[Keith Hall]

Joe, I looked at many options before I ordered a 6 ' Jointech Sawtrain. I got the right hand extention table with a router cutout in the middle of it. This unit gives me more than enough table space. The challenge was to use the router and table by having to reach half way across the table to access the router. It was interesting learning to sneak up on the router fence from the side instead of straight on from the front. My long arms helped. I am used to it now. I also considered installing a table on the left side of the saw , either in place of the extension wing or added to it. I may still do that to help speed up the production process using an additional router. You may be able to use either of these solutions. Good luck. Keith :cool: :cool:

[EliotMason]

Joe:

I've been doing some thinking about this issue of late. I think once you've determined what's going into the table (motor & lift mechanism, if any) the question is what's going ON the table -- the router fence. Everybody out there seems to have a router fence system thingy, and they all seem to attach differently. Design the table accordingly.

I had a Woodpeck left hand extension table for my router. Thick, stable, etc. But I found I wanted more surface between me and the router to make working on large, heavy pieces safer. My new setup will have at least 12" of table all around.

Hope that helps.

Eliot Mason

[Bart Leetch]

I have looked at those right long extension wings with router close to the right side of the table-saw & wondered if the designer needed to have their brain extended & stretched a little. Why not put the hole for the router plate closer to the right end so a person could stand at the end of the extension to do the routing? The way they are doing it now is not very conducive to safety & not very comfortable to operate.

[EliotMason]

Bart, I think those are for the Incra and JoinTech fences. They both such up about 10" (maybe more?) between the mount and the fence itself.

Of course, the table could always be installed in reverse...

[Kevin Swindle]

Joe, I made mine out of two 3/4" thick sheets of MDF, banded with oak and put formica [sp] on top. I then routed the top for a router plate and installed a Router Raizer. I also routed two slots parallel to the front of the table for aluminum T-slots for mounting my fence. Sorry I don't have pictures but I hope this helps.

[Sam Chambers]

Keith:

I also have the 6' SawTrain rails on my Delta Contractor's Saw, and I originally put the router insert in the right side extension table. I goofed up the placement, though - got it too far to the right. As a result, unless I flipped my bridge assembly around, I wasn't able to use the full 18" range of the Jointech Clincher. And because the right side of my saw butts up to the wall, if I flipped the bridge around, I had to move the entire saw, reposition the outfeed table if I was routing a long board...way too much work.

Since my back surgery, I've been re-thinking my design, as it would always have me bending over the table when routing. I've about decided to remove the left hand cast iron wing on my saw and replace it with a doubled-up piece of MDF, covered with plastic laminate, as the router table. That way, I can stand right in front of the router motor, facing the fence, in a balanced stance, without leaning over the table.

If I need more table space for routing a wide board, I can build an extension table that I can attach to the end of the SawTrain rails. (One of the beauties of the SawTrain.) I can just slide the bridge over to the left and won't have to worry about repositioning it. Also, I can build one smaller outfeed table and permanently mount it to the saw, and it won't have to cover the righ hand extension table much (if at all).

Joe, if you're going to use your right hand table as a router table, don't do what I did. I built mine as a torsion box, which I think would be the way to go for an extension table without the router insert. But with a 3 1/4 hp Freud router in there, I had problems with the table sagging a little bit and some noticeable vibration. For use as a router table, I think a heavier, solid table would be the way to go.

[Mike Evertsen]

I built an L shape with two table saws and a router table,,,,click on the www to see more pictures

[EliotMason]

Very clever Mike! There's a good reason to go with contractor saws instead of cabinet saws.

Now you've got me rethinking my modest plans....

[Joe Tonich]

Thanks for the ideas everyone! I'm gonna go with the solid table ( 2 - 3/4" MDF laminated together W/formica face) and thanks to Mike's pic, I know know what to do with the 30" rail from my Unifence. :) If things work out like I think it will, the fence I use will be dictated by the size of the piece. John Christiansen sent me a pic of his setup and the fence attachment he made is outstanding, I think! :D I think I'll have to get the rails and table installed before I figure out the placement of the insert. Hopefully the snow and sub-zero temps will go away and I can get this done soon.

Thanks again,

Joe

[Chris Padilla]

Mike,

Very interesting set-up with two saws! I absolutely HATE changing blades and wish I could somehow have the ability to have two arbors/blades on my TS! I once saw a very old TS that had that ability. It was in American Woodworker under some article about collecting/restoring/repairing vintage tools. It was too cool.


Joe,

For some other ideas in making your router table, go here to John Lucas' site:
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/sstat-4.htm

He used 3 sheets of 1/2" MDF with some Unibond 800 resin. In the end, that is probably stronger and more resilent to bending than two 3/4" pieces of MDF. It is the resin that provides the strength...just like any laminated piece. The more laminations, the better usually.

The Formica top sounds good to use but also consider sealing the bottom of the table with formica as well. This will seal the two largest surface areas on your table top and keep moisture out. Edge-banding in some hardwood will work nicely as well but slap some poly on it or shellac.

Woodpeckers has this phenolic-coated (not formica but similar I suppose) baltic birch that they use for all their jigs. They sell it in 1" thick pieces. I think that would make a fantastic router top as well. http://www.woodpeck.com/balticbirch.html

I know you made your decision but I hope I have given you a tad more to think about! :)

[Tyler Howell]

Wow Mike a two Saw Saw!
Very cool.

Tyler

[jay hanks]

I built an L shape with two table saws and a router table,,,,click on the www to see more pictures
Mike just curious what is the foot print of the multi saw/router table?
I have been considering doing something along those line as I have 2 table saws as well. I just have a 2 car garage as a shop and my space is a little cramped. Thanks Jay

[Joe Tonich]

Joe,

For some other ideas in making your router table, go here to John Lucas' site:
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/sstat-4.htm

He used 3 sheets of 1/2" MDF with some Unibond 800 resin. In the end, that is probably stronger and more resilent to bending than two 3/4" pieces of MDF. It is the resin that provides the strength...just like any laminated piece. The more laminations, the better usually.

The Formica top sounds good to use but also consider sealing the bottom of the table with formica as well. This will seal the two largest surface areas on your table top and keep moisture out. Edge-banding in some hardwood will work nicely as well but slap some poly on it or shellac.

Woodpeckers has this phenolic-coated (not formica but similar I suppose) baltic birch that they use for all their jigs. They sell it in 1" thick pieces. I think that would make a fantastic router top as well. http://www.woodpeck.com/balticbirch.html

I know you made your decision but I hope I have given you a tad more to think about! :)

Chris,

Thanks for the advice. Until I have it made my "Decision" is always subject to change as more ideas and advice become available. Thats why I like this place, there are so many diff. opinions and ways of doing things offered. :)

Thanks again,

Joe