Did a little resawing tonight

[Bruce Page]

I know, I’m incredibly slow…
I started on the cabinet back of my bookcase/elephant display cabinet from hell tonight, (in the background of pic 3).
It’s hard to believe that all that came out of one 8/4 X 11” X 8’ board of QS white oak.
I’ll tell you what, the MM with 1” Lennox Tri-Master is kick-butt at resawing!

[Jim Becker]

Ooooh...that's gonna be a beautiful cabinet back, Bruce!

[Chuck Lenz]

Don't let anyone tell you that you are slow, even yourself. The second you get in a hurry your going to mess up a board or hurt yourself or both. It's not worth it. Take it easy, and plan ahead.

[Gary Keedwell]

Looking good Bruce..... Is the back of cabinet gonna be visible? Hey, is that your new Woodmaster in the background?
Gary K.

[Bruce Page]

Looking good Bruce..... Is the back of cabinet gonna be visible? Hey, is that your new Woodmaster in the background?
Gary K.
Gary, it will be visible through the glass panel doors if you look…:o
I love my new WoodMaster, what an awesome machine!

[Bill Huber]

A question:

What type of joints will you use on the back and will you make one large panel and put it on or will you put it on one board at a time?

[Greg Funk]

I know, I’m incredibly slow…
I started on the cabinet back of my bookcase/elephant display cabinet from hell tonight, (in the background of pic 3).
It’s hard to believe that all that came out of one 8/4 X 11” X 8’ board of QS white oak.
I’ll tell you what, the MM with 1” Lennox Tri-Master is kick-butt at resawing!
Bruce,

I seem to recall hearing in the past that carbide tipped blades were not generally recommended for 16" saws and that the teeth may develop cracks. Have you had the blade long enough to form an opinion or did Lenox indicate it was OK?

thanks,

Greg

[Gary Keedwell]

Gary, it will be visible through the glass panel doors if you look…:o
I love my new WoodMaster, what an awesome machine!
Oh yea, I was so intrigued with looking at that great QSWO that I didn't notice the cabinet.:( :D Man, that is going to look great. I'm looking real seriously at the Woodmaster.;)

Gary K.

[John Schreiber]

I'm having a hard time understanding what I'm seeing. You started with an 8/4 by 11 by 8' board. It looks like you got more wood than that out of it or is the picture confusing me?

[Bruce Page]

A question:

What type of joints will you use on the back and will you make one large panel and put it on or will you put it on one board at a time?
Bill, originally I was going to do a ship-loc joint but decided that a simple tongue & groove will be both stronger & more forgiving. I will probably install it one board at a time.

[Bruce Page]

Bruce,

I seem to recall hearing in the past that carbide tipped blades were not generally recommended for 16" saws and that the teeth may develop cracks. Have you had the blade long enough to form an opinion or did Lenox indicate it was OK?

thanks,

Greg
Greg, I have read that too. So far I haven’t had a problem with the tri-master. I always relieve the blade tension when not in use.

[Bruce Page]

I'm having a hard time understanding what I'm seeing. You started with an 8/4 by 11 by 8' board. It looks like you got more wood than that out of it or is the picture confusing me?
John, I started by cutting the board in half and then ripping each 48” X 11” in half. After a light face & edge jointing, I then re-sawed each “quarter” into three pieces, eace a little thicker than ½” (about 9/16”).
That’s how I ended up with 12 pieces.

[John Schreiber]

John, I started by cutting the board in half and then ripping each 48” X 11” in half. After a light face & edge jointing, I then re-sawed each “quarter” into three pieces, eace a little thicker than ½” (about 9/16”).
That’s how I ended up with 12 pieces.
Thanks, My perspective was all wrong, I thought each of those pieces was 96x11. And it didn't look like they were 0.1" thick.

[Greg Funk]

Greg, I have read that too. So far I haven’t had a problem with the tri-master. I always relieve the blade tension when not in use.
Thanks Bruce, I'll have to give it a try.

Greg

[Joe Mioux]

Bruce, the resawn wood looks great and I always enjoy your mechanical drawings.

Those decimals!? Only from a machinist (albeit a former). :)

Joe

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Bruce, That's going to be a beautiful back, very classy.

[Bruce Page]

Thanks Alan.

Joe, that's how my feeble brain works. I get myself into trouble working with fractions.
Don't you owe us a gloat post? What's up?

[Rob Will]

Bruce, the resawn wood looks great and I always enjoy your mechanical drawings.

Those decimals!? Only from a machinist (albeit a former). :)

Joe

I like the drawings too.........Hey Bruce, howd ya produce that in a form that can be uploaded to SMC? I use an old version of TurboCAD and it has it's own file format (.tcd). The program is great but I've never found a way to convert it to a gif or jpeg. Is there another easy to use mechanical drawing program out there?

The resawn WO looks great. I hope you post some closeups of the grain pattern when you're done.

Rob

[Matt Day]

I like the drawings too.........Hey Bruce, howd ya produce that in a form that can be uploaded to SMC? I use an old version of TurboCAD and it has it's own file format (.tcd). The program is great but I've never found a way to convert it to a gif or jpeg. Is there another easy to use mechanical drawing program out there?

The resawn WO looks great. I hope you post some closeups of the grain pattern when you're done.

Rob

Rob,

I use Google Sketchup, which is free to download. It's 3D, but you can work in 2D by changing your Camera View to Top. You can export the screen shot into a .jpeg, .gif, .bmp, whatever you want, but .jpeg takes up the least room I think.

Be careful though, it's addicting!

[Mike Goetzke]

Bruce - really nice looking wood and saw. I've tried resawing a few times on my 14" BS and have mixed results. I'm impressed with the simplicity of your set-up - looks like a board for a fence and a couple of mag. featherboards only applying load to the bottom of the board.

Thanks for sharing,

Mike

[Bruce Page]

Bruce - really nice looking wood and saw. I've tried resawing a few times on my 14" BS and have mixed results. I'm impressed with the simplicity of your set-up - looks like a board for a fence and a couple of mag. featherboards only applying load to the bottom of the board.

Thanks for sharing,

Mike

Mike, that’s pretty much the setup. I did run the 8/4 through the jointer to get a square edge before bandsawing.

Rob, I use AutoCAD for the sketches and Screen Hunter to capture. Screen Hunter is a free download.

[Scott Felicetti]

I know, I’m incredibly slow…
I started on the cabinet back of my bookcase/elephant display cabinet from hell tonight, (in the background of pic 3).
It’s hard to believe that all that came out of one 8/4 X 11” X 8’ board of QS white oak.
I’ll tell you what, the MM with 1” Lennox Tri-Master is kick-butt at resawing!

Wow Bruce those boards look sweet. Gustav Stickley wood. Can you give a newbie some tips on Slicing veneers with the MM16. I'm just ready to hit the button on a purchase of one. My use will be relatively limited. I need to slice 4/4 and 5/4 hard maple and poplar into thin veneers. 1/16" and 1/8". Do you think I could get uniform thickness with just the MM16 or will I have to run the veneers through a drum sander? (Most of the veneers will be between 8" and 14" in width and 4'-6' in length). Special fence, sled? Thanks,
Scott

[Bruce Page]

Scott, you will love the MM, it is a great saw. One of the most important ingredients for resawing is a great blade. I used a 1” Lennox Tri-Master, 3tpi, carbide tipped blade on the oak. Talk to your sales rep when you order and he should get you a good price on one. I did some resawing with the stock blade that came with it and ended up with a lot of work hardening and cupping.
I haven’t cut any thin veneers like you’re talking about. When you get ready to start just post a new question and you’ll get plenty of good info.

[Bob Feeser]

Bill, originally I was going to do a ship-loc joint but decided that a simple tongue & groove will be both stronger & more forgiving. I will probably install it one board at a time.

Bruce,
That is some beautiful wood, and saw. I was looking at your drawing, and actually did that style of T&G system on the walls of the fitness room, in cedar, and am very happy with the way it turned out. A wall full of beautiful wood, naturally finished is an impressive sight, thanks to nature.
I was watching a show from Norm's NYW last night,and he was building replica of something he saw at Winterthur Museum, actually not too far from where I live. It was a cupboard.
What I wanted to get to was that he placed a traditional bead, alongside the tongue or groove edge, of the board, which complemented the bead along the shelves nicely. It served a dual purpose. The beading created a thinner look to the thicker shelves, when viewing from the front, and the beading along the T&G back panels, created a nice effect as well. It helped added a nice touch to the board surfaces, breaking up the straight board design, in addition to the tapers on the edges.
Did you plan on doing anything else with the edges, or does a straight back design lend itself to the overall design of the piece. I am asking because I am in the design stages of creating a book shelf, referenced a few books on it that I had, and am putting some ideas together. One of those ideas is that I would rather create a solid wood, multi-piece back, then do it in plywood, only because I have a lot of hickory in stock, that I want to use.
Bob

[Bruce Page]

Thanks Bob. This thread has the finished panel in it...without the finish :rolleyes: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=62574
I ended up putting a small 3/32 radius on each board instead of the champher that I had in my drawing. I like the clean look and the wood itself has a lot of fleck & ray in it. Beading might make it too busy.

[Joe Mioux]

Don't you owe us a gloat post? What's up?


Yea yea yea... I will post it just for you! lol


Joe

[Bruce Page]

Yea yea yea... I will post it just for you! lol


Joe

It's about time! :p You can't buy a machine like that and not post a gloat! It ain't natural.

[Joe Mioux]

It's about time! :p You can't buy a machine like that and not post a gloat! It ain't natural.

LOL, ok it is now 7:47 pm ct, I am going outside and taking a pic! LOL :)

Joe

bbib: with a digi

[Roy Wall]

I’ll tell you what, the MM with 1” Lennox Tri-Master is kick-butt at resawing!

Bruce, I couldn't agree with you more.......

Honestly though, it really is the Trimaster .....gotta be. I love my MM also - but its just a machine that spins the tires and thus a blade.

Roy - who still just craves the Heavy, Old Iron bandsaws.....and wonders what they would do with a Lennox Trimaster......

[Bruce Page]

Roy, my old 14” Delta couldn’t do in one day what the MM did in 30 minutes. ;)

[Roy Wall]

Roy, my old 14” Delta couldn’t do in one day what the MM did in 30 minutes. ;)

That I believe........its just the Olivers and Yates machines I'm wondering about......

I admit I love what the MM / trimaster combo can do....It's just got no style points......

[Bob Feeser]

Thanks Bob. This thread has the finished panel in it...without the finish :rolleyes: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=62574
I ended up putting a small 3/32 radius on each board instead of the champher that I had in my drawing. I like the clean look and the wood itself has a lot of fleck & ray in it. Beading might make it too busy.

Bruce,
Thank you for the follow up. I see what you mean, the beauty of the wood looks great.