SCMS blade recommendations

[Gene Collison]

I need to replace the blade on my Hitachi 10FSH SCMS. I am currently using a Freud 60T recommended by Freud for SCMS's. The blade cuts fine, nice smooth glassy cuts but, because it is a thin kerf I am seeing deflection in the form of miter cuts opening etc. when press cutting. This shows up particularly when making say, picture frames from oak chair molding. I am not getting the nice tight joints I am looking for. I am getting nice tight miters on my TS using a CMT General but doing frames on the SCMS is easier.
Anybody have any ideas? I know CMT makes a negative hook angle 80 tooth radial arm saw/ miter saw blade that is standard kerf. Any you guys have any blades you can recommend? The Forrest offering is a thin kerf also I believe. TIA....


Gene

[Jim DeLaney]

I've been using the Forrest Chopmaster on my Hitachi scms for quite a while. It's cut a lot of miters, and I've never had any deflection problems.

I recommend it highly!

BTW, will you be going to the Woodworks 2004 show in Ontario a couple weeks from now? I'll be there on Friday afternoon. The show might be a good place to buy the blade.

[Gene Collison]

I've been using the Forrest Chopmaster on my Hitachi scms for quite a while. It's cut a lot of miters, and I've never had any deflection problems.

I recommend it highly!

BTW, will you be going to the Woodworks 2004 show in Ontario a couple weeks from now? I'll be there on Friday afternoon. The show might be a good place to buy the blade.

Jim,

Yes, I will most likely go to the show. Not sure if it will be Saturday or when though.
Jim, a question. I have an adjustable support on my saw that sits behind the workpiece to support it and supposedly eliminate blowing out the backsaide of the workpiece. It is a zero clearance insert of sorts that you cut through when you first use the saw. The insert is getting wider and wider as I use the saw much the same as a zero clearance insert gets wider with use. I think it is blade deflection and the miter joints show it. When you press cut on oak, it is enough to deflect the blade and open the joint slightly. Sliding cut works better because your not taking on the whole workpiece at once so to speak.
To me its the same thing that causes a TS insert to open up, defection. Now, is a Forrest Chopmaster going to eliminate what I am seeing? If so I'll get one...

Gene

[Jamie Buxton]

Gene --
I have the same saw, and have noticed the same problem you see. I think you're on the right track with a full-kerf blade. I put one (an Everlast 80T cutoff) on my saw, and that helped reduce the blade flutter. I can't understand why anybody makes those darned thin-kerf things.
Another thing which helped was reducing the play in the linear bearings on the sliding bars. The play adjustments are allen screws with hex locknuts on them. They're on top of the casting which the sliding bars slide through.
And one more thing which I did is much more elaborate. I could deflect the plastic fences with only a little pressure. I built metal substitutes (aluminum), which are much stiffer.
With all of these changes, the saw reliably cuts a nice clean line. That said, I still use a tablesaw sled when I want the most accurate 90 degree or 45 degree cut. I use the SCMS for any other angles, particularly for crown molding.


....oops. I have the CF10FS. The tweaks I discuss above probably still apply to the CH10FSH.

[Chris Padilla]

I need to replace the blade on my Hitachi 10FSH SCMS. I am currently using a Freud 60T recommended by Freud for SCMS's. The blade cuts fine, nice smooth glassy cuts but, because it is a thin kerf I am seeing deflection in the form of miter cuts opening etc. when press cutting. This shows up particularly when making say, picture frames from oak chair molding. I am not getting the nice tight joints I am looking for. I am getting nice tight miters on my TS using a CMT General but doing frames on the SCMS is easier.
Anybody have any ideas? I know CMT makes a negative hook angle 80 tooth radial arm saw/ miter saw blade that is standard kerf. Any you guys have any blades you can recommend? The Forrest offering is a thin kerf also I believe. TIA....


Gene

Gene,

I have that very CMT 12" blade on my DeWalt705 it cuts great miters...nice and tight. I only use CMT blades (and router bits, too).

[Mark Singer]

I use the Forrest on my Hitachi...no problems

[Glenn Kiso]

I'm currently using the Hitachi 72 teeth blade that came with my saw as a freebie from Amazon, works quite well. I haven't used it enough to give it definite thumbs up over the 12" chopmaster I had in my dewalt, but I can't really tell the difference between the two. Cuts have been smooth and clean without any deflection. THe only thing I can tell is that the Hitachi C10FSH is a much nicer saw!!

[Paul Kunkel]

Forrest Chopmaster! I can get tight joints every time on my delta sawbuck. LOML makes the picture frames and doesn't have a problem either.

[Ken Salisbury]

You actually have 2 Forrest choices. Either a Chopmaster or a WWI. Both are regular kerf and do a fine job. The WWI is primarily for RAS's which are similiar to SCMS's. The Chopmaster is primarily for MS's. I have a WWI on my RAS and Chopmasters on 2 MS's. All 3 perform beautifully.


Nothing Runs Like a Deere -- and -- Nothing Cuts Like a Forrest.

[Jason Roehl]

Just to throw in my $.02. I've found that technique will make as much of a difference as the thin-kerf/full-kerf switch. I've even seen deflection in miters with full kerf blades. If you're going to use the chop motion to cut your workpiece, you need to let the blade come up to full speed first, then apply directly in the direction you are chopping....it is easy to apply some pressure to either side while making the chopping motion, which will cause deflection. The chop also needs to be fairly slow so that the blade doesn't "pull" the workpiece at all. That being said, my next blade for my SCMS will be a Forrest.

[Byron Trantham]

I use a Forrest Miter Master for my 12" SCMS from DeWalt. It's a standard kerf. Had for about 3 years now it still cutting just fine! I would think that any high quality, standard kerf blade will work great for you.

[Gene Collison]

You actually have 2 Forrest choices. Either a Chopmaster or a WWI. Both are regular kerf and do a fine job. The WWI is primarily for RAS's which are similiar to SCMS's. The Chopmaster is primarily for MS's. I have a WWI on my RAS and Chopmasters on 2 MS's. All 3 perform beautifully.


Nothing Runs Like a Deere -- and -- Nothing Cuts Like a Forrest.

Ken & Byron,

I visited the Woodmall website today looking at Forrest Chopmaster and WW1. Both of these blades appear to be thin kerf. Are you sure your blades are normal kerf?

Gene

[Byron Trantham]

Ken & Byron,

I visited the Woodmall website today looking at Forrest Chopmaster and WW1. Both of these blades appear to be thin kerf. Are you sure your blades are normal kerf?

Gene
Gene,
My blade is not a Chop Master, it's a Miter Master. It is a normal kerf - I just checked. This blade is not normally advertised. Long story, but I ended up with it trying to use a laser. Sorry about the confusion.