Which smoother?

[Jake Helmboldt]

I've been looking through previous posts, but I'm still a little unsure about what smoother plane to buy. I have a #4 that I cleaned up and added a thick Lie Nielsen iron to and which does very nicely. But after a trip to Lie Nielsen I want a shiny new plane.

So, that leaves me wondering what to get. I'm intrigued with the Lee Valley Low Angle Smmother and Bevel Up Smoother. I tried the LN equivalent, but wasn't wowed by it, however I was using it on maple w/ the stock low angle grind. I really like their bench planes, but I'm not sure if that is my best bet.

One reason I want to get t new plane is to have something that works really well on figured woods (and an infill is not an option). The interchangable irons w/ various bevels seems very appealing, especially since LV sells them already ground. I also don't know if I would use the low angle grind since I work mostly in hardwoods.

But I'm wondering if the LN feels/functions as nicely on hardwoods w/ a steeper grind? When I tried it it just didn't seem to glide over the wood like their bench planes. Can anyone who has used all of these comment on their relative feel (LAS/BUS vs LN low angle vs LN #4)?

thanks, JH

[Steve Schoene]

The steeper pitch does mean you will need more "push", but that's a small cost to avoid tear out on figured stuff. Of course, if that's the goal you want a very fine set anyway.

I like my York pitch smoother, though it's not a LN. It's a Clark and Williams and can only be set for really fine cuts--because the mouth is really really tight. But it's the one that gets the job done when it's tough woods to plane.

[Don C Peterson]

I won't claim to be an expert, but I have the LN low angle Jack and I have been totally happy with it. I have one blade with a low angle (25 + about 3 degree micro bevel) that works great for softer or straight grained woods. That thing glides through non figured cherry, maple and ash like butter. Then I have a blade ground to 35 + 5 and a 2 degree back bevel that seems to be a good setup for more difficult grain.

I ground both those irons slightly convex using an Odate plate I got from Japanwoodworker. That, as much as anything seemed to make a big difference in the end result.

Pretty soon, I'll get another blade and grind a more aggressive convex curve and use it for initial surface prep.

The design of the low angle plane makes changing blades a snap.

I have a #4 LN and unless I'm working with a pretty small piece, I usually reach for the jack, even for finish planing.

I'm sure that the LV planes are fine, I personally didn't like the feel (or the look) of the totes.

[Scot Ferraro]

My LN Low Angle has worked well on all types of wood -- you can get replacement irons and hone to different angles -- sine the cutting edge is right at the tip, you do not need an iron with the entire bevel ground at that angle to get the same results.

LN also has come out with a Middle-Pitch frog that is steeper than the High Angle frog (55 degrees vs. 50 degrees) -- the interchangeability of the frogs is nice -- I have a 50 degree frog and will likely add the 55 degree one at some point.

Good luck,

Scot

[Mark Singer]

The LN 4 1/2 is among their very best! Take a look at that one

[Philip Glover]

Jake,

I have a LN #4 and a LN #4 1/2 Anniversary which has the high angle frog. I work only with hardwood and for general purpose work I use the #4 a lot. It works great, except for tricky grain, for example birdseye maple. This is where the 4 1/2 comes into it's own. It does take a little more push, but not much more because of its extra weight. I have it set for a very fine cut, which difficult grain requires anyways. It will leave an almost mirror finish. I can even cut against the grain with no tear-out on any of the North American hardwoods that I work with. So, the 4 1/2 is an excellent choice.
I too have been considering a low angle smoother such as LN or LV. Like yourself, I am still trying to decide on which one. I can see where the low center-of-gravity in a low angle plane can make it easier to push compared to a high angle plane, and add to that the extra versatility of being able to use low and high angle grinds. No matter which one you choose, it will work great. Besides, you can always buy another smoother when you feel the urge.

Regards,
Phil

[Randall Houghton]

Jake
So the flashy plane bug has got ya. The LV BUS with a high angle blade and it's additional weight is a better go on Aussie wood than a bench plane. See Derek Cohen's review. My favorite is the Gordon smoother with 6mm thick blade set at 60. Planes everything I've met in either direction. It's like Rob Lee says a plane is just a holder for a chisel. So skip the flash and spend your $ on something else. Good luck with your choice.
Regards
Randy