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Matt Benton
07-03-2007, 3:06 PM
Is there anyway I can build a router table setup with a Bench dog router lift, PC 7518, and not use the router plate that is built into the lift?

I know Pat Warner has mentioned that he bolts a lift to the table, and doesn't use the insert plate. I too would like to use a solid mdf table, but haven't figured out how to incorporate this with a lift.

Thanks!

Ray Scheller
07-03-2007, 5:35 PM
Why don't you want to use the BenchDog plate? It's very solid and extremely flat.:confused:

Matt Benton
07-03-2007, 5:47 PM
I was looking at the Gifkins dovetail jig mentioned in an earlier thread, and thought it looked really good for dovetails, but would think that any imperfections in the edge between the table and plate would cause problems for such an exact joint.

I'm sure the problem is not nearly what I imagine, just thinking a solid piece, consistent material would provide the best router table top.

I just think what Warner has done provides the best of both worlds: highly accurate and stable lift mechanism and a 1 piece table top with no height or material variances.

pat warner
07-03-2007, 5:50 PM
Unit in pix (http://www.patwarner.com/images/bdpwf.jpg), a special one-off for client.
Plate was tapped in 4 places and screwed to the bottom of MDF slab.
Can be done, some heroics required.

Matt Benton
07-03-2007, 6:03 PM
Pat,

Thanks for the reply.

Do you recall the plate thickness?

I considered attaching the plate to the bottom of the mdf, but didn't know if I could get the router high enough to change the bit. I take it that's not a problem.

Thanks again!

pat warner
07-03-2007, 6:19 PM
Steel T = 5/16

We had to open the hole 2.5", bent wrenches required any way.

I'm thinkin', given the resources, why not use a more sophisticated substrate? The lift and motor alone put you in the high class/quality buyer category.

What? Cast iron, phenolic, aluminum e.g.

MDF is great, however, & simple, cheap and easily replaceable.

Matt Benton
07-03-2007, 6:43 PM
I got the lift for < 200 new, only buying because I knew I could recoup 100%+ if necessary.

Do you know if I'll need to increase the hole size in the prolift? That could be a showstopper...

I don't mind using bent wrenches, just don't want to drill the plate and find out the travel isn't sufficient.

pat warner
07-03-2007, 8:06 PM
The hole in the plate is big, not the problem.
We opened the MDF hole to 2.5", a 1/2" more than I would have done for myself.
Did have to tap and drill for 2 new screws in the plate; through hole ok too.

Matt Benton
07-03-2007, 10:02 PM
Pat,

Thanks for all the advice.

Lastly, what type/size of bolt would you advise to use to attach the lift to the table top? I'm assuming a low-profile head, like cabinet screws, but machine threads?

Thanks again!