Need help with bevel question

[Craig D Peltier]

Hi, hope someone can help. I have a question about a top im making for a dresser. The top is 20x60 in 3/4 thick fiddleback maple.
I need to take off a bevel on each end about 5 inches in to maybe 3/8 inch thick at ends. So creating a pie shape.

Should I glue half top together and resaw a bevel with the BS? Will that work very well?
Should I buy a power planer and use that?
Should I try and belt sand it down and some hand planing?

Scraper and full hand planing is out of question.Im not skilled enough. Plus I havent sharpened my scrapers because there intimidating to sharpen.

Thanks

[Jamie Buxton]

I can't understand what you're trying to do. Is the attached sketch close?

[Craig D Peltier]

I can't understand what you're trying to do. Is the attached sketch close?
See birds eye maple post on this first or second page and see picture of dresser.Notice the bevel on each end of the top of dresser.

Thank you

Heres link http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=60215

[Jamie Buxton]

Ah, I see now.

I'd use a router jig. Look up the router jig used to face-plane planks. Modify it so that the plane it cuts is the bevel you want. Done right, it will leave you with just a little finish sanding.

[pat warner]

Taper on this top (http://patwarner.com/images/jtable.jpg)reaches to 8", tapers to 3/8" from 1".
Iis that what you'rer after?

[James Phillips]

Hi, hope someone can help. I have a question about a top im making for a dresser. The top is 20x60 in 3/4 thick fiddleback maple.
I need to take off a bevel on each end about 5 inches in to maybe 3/8 inch thick at ends. So creating a pie shape.

Should I glue half top together and resaw a bevel with the BS? Will that work very well?
Should I buy a power planer and use that?
Should I try and belt sand it down and some hand planing?

Scraper and full hand planing is out of question.Im not skilled enough. Plus I havent sharpened my scrapers because there intimidating to sharpen.

Thanks

If you have a table saw and dado set. Set you dado blade as wide as possible. Set it at an angle where the TOP of the blade represents the bevel angle you want. Make a pass along the very edge. Lower the blade and move over a little. Make another pass. Folow this pattern until you finish the bevel. Clean up with sand paper. The amount of sanding will be directly related to the quality of the dado. Clearly maek both sides in advance to be sure you can match them.

Good Luck

[Tim Sproul]

This is an operation where you want to bring a smaller hand-held tool to the work rather than trying to wrestle a large and heavy panel into a stationary tool cutter.

The router sled will work. Me? I just hack off most of the waste with a hand saw and then smooth it out with a hand plane. Be done in less time than it takes to make the router sled. This bevel doesn't require super-duper accuracy. I've done similar bevels on table tops. For a 24 inch wide top with a 4 inch bevel, I was done inside of an hour, beveling both ends. This includes time for me to mark out the boundaries of the bevel. If you choose the planing route (hand or power), be mindful that you're planing cross-grain. Bevel the exit side a bit to help prevent or at least minimize blow-out.

[James Phillips]

This is an operation where you want to bring a smaller hand-held tool to the work rather than trying to wrestle a large and heavy panel into a stationary tool cutter.


I recommended the table saw because the extension table will give plenty of room to rest the top and it will be very quick and easy

[Doug Shepard]

This is an operation where you want to bring a smaller hand-held tool to the work rather than trying to wrestle a large and heavy panel into a stationary tool cutter.
...


I agree. I think I'd go with a router on rails too, but also think a variation on James idea might work too. A rail guided circular saw set at an angle, with each cut going less deep might work. I was thinking along the lines of the way you'd do dados with a circular saw every 1/4" or so then break off the combs and clean up with a chisel. Same idea but cleaning up with a hand plane here instead. I think the router sled on rails would probably make for the least amount of handtool or sanding cleanup though.

[Tim Sproul]

I recommended the table saw because the extension table will give plenty of room to rest the top and it will be very quick and easy

If you have a right tilt, there will be plenty of saw table underneath. Even so, I don't think most folks have a sturdy enough crosscut sled to accomodate a large slab of wood that size. At least not to accomodate it safely, especially if the top is more than 12 - 16 inches wide. If wide, you start running into issues on how to start the cut safely.

I don't disagree that the table saw is a viable option. I just point out that in this instance it may be safer, faster and easier to just get out some hand tools. These hand tools can be powered by your local Edison Electric or by the breakfast/lunch you ate.

[Craig D Peltier]

Hmmm, thanks for all the advice.
A hand saw, hmmm. Maybe I can take each piece on the bandsaw varying from 4 inch in width to 6 or 7 and cut proud of line and then glue together and finish with plane or sanding? That would be same idea right? Its a 14 inch bs with 3/4 blade or I have a new olsen 1/2 inch.

Router jig I havent the time on this to do unfortuntaley.

Table saw sounds like an idea.I have a left tilt so about 33 inch will be on table of 60 inch. I have a freud dado set.

Please comment on my thoughts.

Thank you

[Craig D Peltier]

Taper on this top (http://patwarner.com/images/jtable.jpg)reaches to 8", tapers to 3/8" from 1".
Iis that what you'rer after?

Yes exactly.

[Craig D Peltier]

Hi, I ended up using the jointer with a stop block.It came out nice.Although the pieces had to be cut to length before gluue up I think it came out nice.
Thanks for the helpful suggestions.67609

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