Dust Gorilla Startup Problems

[Rich Person]

Okay, what is the magic words I have to say--or the amount of time to hold down the power button.

I just got my new super (when it starts) Dust Gorilla set up. It has run successfully a few times, but 70% of the time it won't start up (starts, but then kicks off before at full speed). Everything on the outlet is sealed, and it should have more than enough juice going to it. I there some magic thing I need to know about operating the magnetic switch, or did I just get a lemon?

[John Young]

Have you tried contacting Oneida? It sounds like a bad starting capacitor or running capacitor on the motor.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

Mine won't start more than a few times every ten minutes. There's something about it in the manual. Heat protection.

Good Luck

Mike

[Dwayne Watt]

Mine had the same problem. The starter needs to be adjusted slightly to increase the allowable amperage during startups and eliminate the nuisance shutdowns/non-starts. Page 13 of the manual describles how to adjust this. Don't get carried away by adjusting the overload amperage to a high value. This negates the overload protection of the starter. Only a slight increase should be needed to match your motor. If this doesn't work, then a new starter might be in order.

[Joe Jensen]

Okay, what is the magic words I have to say--or the amount of time to hold down the power button.

I just got my new super (when it starts) Dust Gorilla set up. It has run successfully a few times, but 70% of the time it won't start up (starts, but then kicks off before at full speed). Everything on the outlet is sealed, and it should have more than enough juice going to it. I there some magic thing I need to know about operating the magnetic switch, or did I just get a lemon?

Do you have ductwork connected? The unit cannot run without some airflow resistance. The motor spins too easily and which causes it to overheat. It's not obvious that woudl happen...joe

[Bob Wingard]

I respectfully have to disagree with you on this one, Joe. The blower's job is to move air .. .. .. with no ductwork connected, it has all the air in the world at it's intake. If you block off the intake, the motor speeds up a bit .. .. .. that is because it is not doing any work .. .. .. there's no load on it. The motor itself should be cooled by ambient air being moved by a fanwheel on the motor's shaft. The two are independant of each other. The motor can get it's vents on the endbell blocked and overheat regardless of what it's turning.

At least that's kinda the way some engineers from Torit explained it once when the company I worked for brought them in to do a seminar.

[Mike Heidrick]

Dwayne posted the solution you need.

Let us know if that works.

[Geoff Harris]

The only time I ever had that problem with mine was before I connected the ductwork. Since then it's run fine.

[Mike Goetzke]

I respectfully have to disagree with you on this one, Joe. The blower's job is to move air .. .. .. with no ductwork connected, it has all the air in the world at it's intake. If you block off the intake, the motor speeds up a bit .. .. .. that is because it is not doing any work .. .. .. there's no load on it. The motor itself should be cooled by ambient air being moved by a fanwheel on the motor's shaft. The two are independant of each other. The motor can get it's vents on the endbell blocked and overheat regardless of what it's turning.

At least that's kinda the way some engineers from Torit explained it once when the company I worked for brought them in to do a seminar.

I know it's counter intuitive, but, a motor does draw more amps if restricted less. It pushes more air and thus requires more power.

[Aaron Beaver]

Mine had the same problem. The starter needs to be adjusted slightly to increase the allowable amperage during startups and eliminate the nuisance shutdowns/non-starts. Page 13 of the manual describles how to adjust this. Don't get carried away by adjusting the overload amperage to a high value. This negates the overload protection of the starter. Only a slight increase should be needed to match your motor. If this doesn't work, then a new starter might be in order.

Dwayne has it, I had to increase my amperage to 20, it was set at something like 16. I was having start-up problems, called Oneida and thats what they told me to do.

[Joe Jensen]

I respectfully have to disagree with you on this one, Joe. The blower's job is to move air .. .. .. with no ductwork connected, it has all the air in the world at it's intake. If you block off the intake, the motor speeds up a bit .. .. .. that is because it is not doing any work .. .. .. there's no load on it. The motor itself should be cooled by ambient air being moved by a fanwheel on the motor's shaft. The two are independant of each other. The motor can get it's vents on the endbell blocked and overheat regardless of what it's turning.

At least that's kinda the way some engineers from Torit explained it once when the company I worked for brought them in to do a seminar.

All I can say is that when I installed mine, I ran it without ductwork and the motor would shut down in less than a minute of running with no duct. When I called Oneida they told me not to run it without ductwork. The motor was overheating. Something about the duty cycle. With ductwork it has never shur down...joe

[Bob Wingard]

I think that's what I said, but maybe in a backwards way .. .. .. NO DUCTWORK = the motor is trying to move all of the air in the world .. .. .. WITH DUCTWORK = the load on the motor is somewhat restricted .. .. BLOCKED DUCTWORK = motor has no work to do so it speeds up a bit .. .. usually very noticeable on a vacuum system.

Is that better ??

[Ted Illi]

I think that's what I said, but maybe in a backwards way .. .. .. NO DUCTWORK = the motor is trying to move all of the air in the world .. .. .. WITH DUCTWORK = the load on the motor is somewhat restricted .. .. BLOCKED DUCTWORK = motor has no work to do so it speeds up a bit .. .. usually very noticeable on a vacuum system.

Is that better ??

Would agree with Bob on this one. No air no work. Lots of air, lots of dust = lots of work and lots of amps.

On another matter. I also just received my gorilla and spent yesterday installing it. I have one issue. I used Method #3 on page 7. It seemed the easiest for a one man installation. I installed the wall bracket, (in the corner of the shop) bolted together the Blower Housing and Cyclone Barrel and placed it on top of the Cone sitting loosely on the wall bracket. I orientated the air inlet at 90 deg to the air outlet so the they would run parallel down each wall. When I tried to align the bolt holes in the barrel assembly with the wall bracket the flange on the outlet hits the wall before the holes in the barrel assembly align with the holes in wall bracket. It looks like the barrel would rotate to let the inlet /outlet to run parallel with the walls if I shim the wall bracket out from the wall about the width of a 2x4. Something doesn't seem right! Am I doing something wrong?

[Joe Jensen]

Would agree with Bob on this one. No air no work. Lots of air, lots of dust = lots of work and lots of amps.

On another matter. I also just received my gorilla and spent yesterday installing it. I have one issue. I used Method #3 on page 7. It seemed the easiest for a one man installation. I installed the wall bracket, (in the corner of the shop) bolted together the Blower Housing and Cyclone Barrel and placed it on top of the Cone sitting loosely on the wall bracket. I orientated the air inlet at 90 deg to the air outlet so the they would run parallel down each wall. When I tried to align the bolt holes in the barrel assembly with the wall bracket the flange on the outlet hits the wall before the holes in the barrel assembly align with the holes in wall bracket. It looks like the barrel would rotate to let the inlet /outlet to run parallel with the walls if I shim the wall bracket out from the wall about the width of a 2x4. Something doesn't seem right! Am I doing something wrong?

I had to change the angle too. In my case I needed a custom angle between the inlet and outlet. I ended up positioning them assembled cyclone on the stand and then drilling new holes in either the stand, or cyclone (whichever was needed) to mount it...joe

[Ted Illi]

I had to change the angle too. In my case I needed a custom angle between the inlet and outlet. I ended up positioning them assembled cyclone on the stand and then drilling new holes in either the stand, or cyclone (whichever was needed) to mount it...joe

Thanks for the reply. I guess I'll have to do the same.. Ya know with the number of bolt holes you'd think you could get almost any angle desired. But in reality moving only one bolt moves things a whole lot (30 degrees I think). Can't wait to get the rest installed and fire it up!