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Randy Redding
06-29-2007, 11:17 AM
Our home-owner's association has a big sign at our entrance. It is getting pretty old and we've been talking about replacing it. We're a close-nit community and many of us pitch in to keep our costs down. We got a volunteer to make a sign but he got busy. Long story short, I'll be making a sign.

My question is about the lettering. I need to make 13 - 4" letters. I'm either going to route them directly or do a relief where the material around the letters is removed. The jury's still out on that. I've done neither before. Does anyone have suggestions as to tools, bits, templates, techniques etc.? I'm not a carver but pretty good with a router. People seem to want a script-like font.

Michael Sloan
06-29-2007, 12:19 PM
Hi Randy,

I did exactly the same project for my neigborhood. I tried one of the router lettering jigs, and turned a bunch of nice cedar into scrap, so took the advice of someone else from Sawmill Creek.

Use your computer to make a paper template for the sign. As an example once you get the letter font and font size to look the way you want, a sign like "Addison Drive" would probably require 3 sheets of paper:
1) "Add",
2) "ison",
and 3) "Drive".

Attach the sheets of paper to your wood using spray-on contact cement, being careful with the spacing and alignment when joining the different sheets of paper. Route out the letters freehand, either cutting out the letters, or removing the waste wood to the outside of the letters. If you have the right router bit, and are careful, this is actually pretty easy, but I would practice a couple of times on scrap wood before committing to the actual sign. A router bit designed for lettering makes the process much easier to control. Make sure that the router bit is sized consistent with the font that you choose. Also, keep a shop vac running to remove chips so you can see the template clearly.

Once you are done routing, remove the excess paper by soaking with kerosene and scraping .... (much, much easier than sanding it off).

If the sign will be finished with a clear finish, and your letters are indented, then paint the inside of the letters. No need to be too careful, since you will then sand the top, removing any paint "outside the lines", and then finish with your clear finish of choice.

Good Luck

Alfred Clem
06-29-2007, 12:36 PM
If you are skilled with a router, you should have no problem. I have made a lot of signs with a router. I like to use a v-shaped bit. Practice on some scrap until you feel comfortable.

I first sketch out the letters using a Sharpie pen right on the wood. Using the router, I do all the vertical strokes, going from bottom to top slowly. Then I correct any wobblies and begin the cross strokes or ellipticle strokes.

When I feel satisfied after making any minor corrections with a sharp chisel, I use spray paint over all the letters. After the paint dries completely, I use an orbital sander on the flat surface. The letters, being depressed, are not disturbed by the sander.

One little warning: make sure you spell all the words correctly -- before you start using the router!

Lee Schierer
06-29-2007, 12:45 PM
Just a thought, does your local craft store or woodworker catalog have wood letters. Might be faster by far than trying to route out letters. Sears used to sell router templates for lettering, but the letters were smaller than 4" if I remember correctly. If you try to do it free hand, the wood grain will pose a definite challenge to getting smooth lettering.

David DeCristoforo
06-29-2007, 12:52 PM
What everyone else said plus:
If you do an internet search for "Wood Letters" you will find a plethora of vendors that offer wood letters in a variety of fonts, sizes and materials....

Randy Redding
06-29-2007, 1:23 PM
Thanks to all for the quick and varied advice! I priced out router bits and looked up the cost of purchased letters. The purchased letters cost less than the bit. Of course I'd be giving up a great opportunity to buy a tool...

Since this will be a painted sign, I think I'll buy letters and place them inside a routed depression in the wood. If it turns out well, I'll post pictures.