PDA

View Full Version : Problems w/ripping small pieces



Thomas Kila
06-27-2007, 6:58 AM
I am building my first tool cabinet and drawer unit and needed to rip 16 drawer runners measuring 1/2" x 7/32" x 9 5/8". Figuring I needed to use a hardwood for the runners, I used maple. I had no problems while cutting the pieces to 1/2". However, when I tried to make the 7/32" cuts, the front end of the piece kept rising. I have the Sharkguard blade cover on my tablesaw, but was unable to use it as I didn't have enough room to feed the stock past the blade. (I made a fence-riding push block I saw on DIY's Tools and Techniques.) What am I doing wrong? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Randy Klein
06-27-2007, 7:56 AM
Do you have a band saw?

Rick Gooden
06-27-2007, 8:07 AM
You could cut the 7/32 piece first, not on the fence side of the blade which would then give you 1/2 to push thru the fence side. A grrripper would be an excellent tool for this as it lets you safely move a small dimension past the blade.

Rick

disclaimer: no affiliation with manufacturer, just a satisfied user.

Don Bullock
06-27-2007, 8:29 AM
I agree with Rick. That's one reason that Ibought an Incre fence system for my table saw, but it can be done with other fences as well. To see it done using an Incra you can check out the video:

TSLS Positioner Standard System
(for Table Saw) (http://incra.biz/Library/WebTSLSStandard.wmv)

The demonstration I'm referring to is near the beginning so you don't need to watch the whole thing.

Dan Lee
06-27-2007, 8:45 AM
Current issue of Shopnotes has pretty good article on this. The cover shows a pretty neat jig using a bearing that sets the width to the left of the blade that the stock guides against.
Having said that I use a bandsaw and drum sander for this

http://www.shopnotes.com/

Jim Becker
06-27-2007, 11:25 AM
Thin material will tend to lift and chatter. A feather board to keep it on the table will help.

Thomas Kila
06-27-2007, 4:00 PM
Thanks, all! Yes, I do have a bandsaw, but as a newbie I didn't think I would be able to make a straight enough cut. (I have yet to try and resaw, although just last night viewed a couple of DVD's on bandsaw use, etc.) I intend to practice making such cuts on my bandsaw.

I also will look into the Grripper system as suggested.

Thomas Kila
06-27-2007, 4:05 PM
Don,
I just checked out the Incra video clip and am quite interested in this fence. Are there any downsides to this fence?

Gary Benson
06-27-2007, 4:11 PM
How about cutting to 1/2 by 1/2, then planing down to final dimension with thickness planer? Somewhat wasteful, but accurate and safe. You could also dimension a board to 1/2 thick, then set the fence for a 7/32 off cut, then move the fence 7/32 (plus blade kerf) to repeat process. Probably less accurate, but also safe.

glenn bradley
06-27-2007, 4:57 PM
If you have a planer, thickness plane to 7/32" then rip at 1/2" using a Grr-Ripper of like push block. Just my .02.

Thomas Kila
06-27-2007, 5:31 PM
Great suggestions! I'll try several different methods and see which works best for me. As for a planer, I have one on order and am awaiting delivery. Thanks again!

Burt Waddell
06-27-2007, 5:31 PM
Thomas,

I've been very happy with the results that I have gotten with the EZ bridge system when I need small pieces. I think that a piece 5/16" wide it about the smallest that I hve done. the resulting pieces were well under 1/8" each.

Here is a U-tube video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRlrs438-kc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRlrs438-kc)




Burt

Don Bullock
06-28-2007, 2:28 AM
Don,
I just checked out the Incra video clip and am quite interested in this fence. Are there any downsides to this fence?

There are several threads on SawMill Creek on the Incra table saw fence that you could search through. Some people complain about the space needed to the right of the blade for the fence positioner if it's fully extended. It can stick out 32" beyond the fence for a very wide cut. I don't make cuts that wide very often, so it isn't a big problem for me. There is also some extra cost involved if tou already have a good fence. I bought one for my SawStop instead of buying the one that they make for the saw. I posted the video because you could yse the same technique of cutting the strips on the left side of the blade with most table saw fences. I guess perhaps the Incra may make it a little easier.

David DeCristoforo
06-28-2007, 12:14 PM
In my shop there are several pairs of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-37-108-Push-Blocks-Jointers/dp/B00004TQG4

which I consider to be "sacrificial". Set the saw blade height to just a hair over the stock thickness and wax the table and fence so the stock will glide easily. The pads will make it possible for you to keep the stock firmly on the table and tight to the fence. Having said all that. I usually rip small stock "fat" and use the planer to bring it to final dimension.