Advice for moving 1000 lb band saw...

[Dave MacArthur]

Hi folks,
I need advice on moving a 1000lb bandsaw about 45 miles from a garage to my garage.
I went out and looked at a Jet JWBS 24-1, 24" bandsaw today. It seems decent, although tensioning/detensioning a 1.5" blade with that hand wheel and no lever was a real bear... something might be messed up a bit there.

In any case, the 3 year old saw runs well, and there are plenty of controls to align the wheels (which I'll surely need to redo after moving). I absolutely do not "need" a 24" bandsaw just now, but OTOH I was looking at 18" ones, and this is a better price even... and about 100 threads kept saying "buy as big a bandsaw as you can afford!". So...

I was over there today ready to load it in the back of my Toyota Tacoma and get it home. With the tailgate down, the 80" saw would not overhang the end of the truck, and the truck is rated for 1100 lbs load back there. My plan was to load it in on it's spine. I didn't end up bringing it home, here are my problems, any advice appreciated!
1. This thing is a BEAST! Much bigger than I anticipated, despite you guys warning me. I decided that the heavy base should NOT sit on the tailgate, but should be up against the truck cab. Now, HOW do you get the BOTTOM of the saw loaded up there? I had conceived of tipping it over into the truck and just pushing it back on it's spine, but that only works when you put the top up agains the cab.
2. I called all the WMH /jet tools distributors in town, no one was interested in moving a saw for a fee, or even coming out and tuning it after I got it home, for that matter...
3. I had 5 total guys there to help me load it, but we decided not to, as I could not think of how I would get it OUT of my truck once home! Does anyone know if 5 is enough to TOTALLY lift a 1000lb saw up and reverse it in bottom first?
4. Should I remove the table, wheels, and motor?
5. My current gameplan is to rent a trailer, and tip it over on to THAT... any advice on where/how big it takes to haul 1000lbs?
6. I did a search on the site and read threads on "moving a bandsaw" including http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=338132 etc., but I did not see any mention of breaking the saw down to transport... how much pain will this entail for setting it up again, those of you who have had to put one together and tune it?
7. In one thread, a guy rented a truck with a LIFT GATE. That sounded pretty good! Any thoughts on this? Would you leave the saw upright and strap it in?

The saw is on a mobile base (shop fox?), which amazes me for 1000 lbs, but it rolls around ok.

Any advice appreciated, including advice on the intelligence of buying a 24" bandsaw for a garage workshop... the uber size of that thing really has me thinking...
Thanks!

[Steven Wilson]

Take saw, remove it from mobile base and then bolt it to a pallet. Move pallet onto a fairly low utility trailer (4x8 should work), then bolt the pallet to the floor of the trailer and strap the machine down very well. You'll want to remove the table as the trunion is a weak point. BTW, you may very well have 1100lb capacity in your Toyota Tacoma but make sure that it's in addition to the load in the cab. You'll probably find that it's total load which includes your weight, your passengers, tools, and other stuff besides the saw. It's best to use a utility trailer with a long fold down gate that's designed for driving mowers and stuff on it (mine has an 7' tall gate that is just peachy for loading lighter machines like big bandsaws and large lathes)

[Jude Kingery]

Dave, not sure how much help this is, but we did transport a very large Laguna bandsaw (unsure on the weight, but heavy and like you, a great deal on price) in a pickup from CO to TX, horizontally in the bed rather than vertically, bottom end near the tail gate, so yes, we did do the base at the tail gate and top up against the cab - but it was a full size pick up and it did fit with the tailgate shut. Then just did a ramp out of 3/4" ply off the tailgate butted up against a seam of the garage floor, and dollied it down slowly at a tilt on the dolly, then upright into the shop.

That and when the big lathe came, Glen and two guys along with him unloaded that, about 690 lbs. Three guys together were able to ensure it wouldn't tip off the pallet, but drop to the floor. But that was only about a 4" drop straight onto the floor, inch it over and lower it, kinda scoot it into place for bolting to the floor.

But yeah, I think you could do it carefully. With some help, balance, a good dolly and tow straps to anchor it down.

We've also moved some huge sheds with PVC pipe, laying PVC down on the ground, boosting the shed onto it, then you can roll or slide anything on them long as it's not prone to tipping. I was surprised we didn't crush the pipe, but hey, it worked. Course sheds aren't near as heavy as 1,000 lbs. Anyway, I wish you the best. These are just some ideas is all.

Hope it helps and best to you on your endeavor. Jude

[Mike Cutler]

Dang Dave. To bad you're not closer. I have a 2 horse bumperpull trailer, with a ramp that would be perfect.
I've unloaded some heavy machines from the back of my Tacoma, and it's not a lot of fun. By the time you back it into your garage, you've lost all of the overhead height needed to rig it out, and at a thousand pounds you're getting close to the max amount "friends" can handle. That's a lot of weight. You could drop some weight by removing the motor, table, trunnions and wheels

I would personally try to rent a low utility trailer with a ramp, or a truck with a lift gate. Palletize it and move it that way.

[Randy Klein]

Maybe you can rent an enclosed uhual truck. I think they even have ribs on the sides that can be used to tie things up.

[John D. Thompson]

I am DEFINITELY with Mike on this one.

The person who invented the lift gate has a special place in Valhalla.

With a little research, you should be able to find one that rents by the day for about the same money as U-Haul.

[Rob Russell]

Lift gate trucks are great, but make sure that the gate is rated for the 1100 pounds or you'll be frustrated that the gate can't lift up the saw.

I would rent a tilting trailer - the kind where you pull a pin and the whole trailer bed tilts. You can transport the saw standing up, but you would want to have 4 heavy duty (2") tie down straps to secure the top of the saw from moving - front/back left/right. The nice thing about the trailer is that you basically roll the saw on/off. You might need to spend $40 to buy a hand winch at the local big box to crank the saw onto the trailer and to use as a means of controlling the slide off the trailer.

[Don Bullock]

The retailer I bought my SawStop from, Eagle Tools in LA, has the big band saws at shows and then takes them back to the store. They use a local shipper that has a truck with a liftgate to do all their shipping. He delivered my SawStop on the mobile base right ot my garage and helped me place it where I wanted it. I'd check with all the local tool distributers, not just Jets, and see who they use for local deliveries. If done right, all the adjustments should be fine after the move.

I'm assuming that it can be taken in and out of the garage on the mobile base standing up. With a saw that tall, that would be my biggest concern.

[jeremy levine]

"U haul" has a bunch of low trailers ( 5'x9' rated at 1500+ pounds ) , that can handle the load. You might be able to push ( winch ) it up onto the trailer and tie it down.

[Kermit Hodges]

Rent/beg/borrow/steal an engine lift. Makes moving things like that childs play. I move machines like that by myself.

I would not have hesitated to have hauled that in your truck. With 5 guys you should be able to move up to tail gate, tilt it back in the bed of the truck no problem. I would take the table off just in case it wanted to roll to one side (likely). But the weight is going to be distributed along the whole bed. (once loaded) Not just on your tailgate so that wouldn't bother me. Just make sure it it is properly tied down.

It's just intimidating the first coupe of times. After that moving big machines is not hard.

66997

Here is one I helped unload not to long ago. This was one stripped when it was bought, but it's probably 600+ lbs of cast iron in the bare casting alone. It was simple as pushing a full garbage can to the road. Once assembled he moved it around the shop the same way.

[John Shuk]

I would remove the table and the motor for sure. I would not want to get involved with the wheels though.

[joe greiner]

For DIY moving, I'd remove as much as possible and move separate pieces. Disassembly and reassembly could be purgatory, but much less heartache overall.

DIY might not be best, though. Make an inquiry to "Piano Movers" from the Yellow Pages. Four mobs listed in little old Tallahassee, so probably lots more in Phoenix. Response may be something like, "No, but you might try xxx." Likely not too much of a wild goose chase. Last I checked, the flat rate for piano move was about $200, maybe more by now. Same for a billiard table. Sounds like a bargain. Your equipment rental won't be free after all.

Joe

[Greg Narozniak]

The Penske truck I rented when I moved my shop had a lift gate and it was rate 2500lbs. Should do the trick without a problem.

[Pat Germain]

I was also going to suggest an engine lift. Kermit beat me to it. Those things are great. If they can handle a fully assembled big block V8, a band saw will be no problem.

You can rent engine lifts which are trailers. They have wheels for towing. You just hook it up to a ball hitch and away you go. This would allow you to use the engine lift to load the saw into your truck as well as unload it into your shop. Any rental center will rent engine lifts and they are inexpensive. This should be much cheaper than renting a truck with a lift gate. Renting a truck for local use can be ridiculously expensive. They charge you a rental fee plus mileage. :rolleyes:

[Dave MacArthur]

Thanks everyone! I do have an engine lift, but not a "trailerable" one. Checking on lift gate trucks and trailers... I probably would have a hard time getting 5+ folks over to unload a bandsaw if I got it into my truck.

There are a good amount of "road bumps" and hilly curves near the pickup point, I am worried vertically mounted saw might not handle going over speed bumps on a trailer. I'll post info on prices of options, as well as how it all goes, later, as I'm sure it will be helpful to someone ;)

[Jim O'Dell]

Or if you want to try it in your truck, just get another pickup, tilt the head into it, then pick up the bottom and slide it in. That's a little over simplified, but you probably get the idea. It keeps you from having to hold the whole thing while sliding it into the pickup. To unload, just reverse the order.
The trailerable engine hoist sounds like a good idea, especially if you can keep the hwy tires on the ground when you take it off the truck at the house, and push the whole thing across the yard to the shop. That way small metal wheels aren't sinking into the dirt. Jim.

[Tom Hamilton]

Hi Dave: You might review the Old Woodworkding Machines (OWWM.org) forum and search for "moving old iron". They focus on restoring old machinery and the moving is one of the sub-specialities.

Gravity, one inch iron pipe rollers, heavy, multiple cinches and great care and preparation seem to be the key points.

The lift gate truck is also a fav with this group.

Good luck, Tom

[Rob Will]

Dave,

I vote for removing the table and transporting the saw standing up with a liftgate equipped truck.

Rob

[Reg Mitchell]

The engin hoist it the trick. It would be good to take the table off incase, hopefully not, it turns ove. That would wreck your table possably breaking your truniojns $$$$$. takeing the wheels and motor will lighten the load as far as getting it on a trailor. A tilt trailor would be nice also but remember the size of your door and then the highth of the saw, another reason to take the top wheel off. Straps, 2", are a requirment since you will have the saw standing upright. Cross strap it so the strap will not allow it to turn over.
If you get a tilting trailor you won''t have to have 5 ppl. pull it with a comealong toward the rear BUT make sure you have a strap in the front that will hold it when it tilts. then its just a matter of pulling it with the comealong a little at a time and releasing the front "hold" strap.
It's not very hard to do if you remember to let gravity help and take your time. Think befor you do something. Its patients that will keep it and you safe
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d99/male_man/myrtelwoodtbltop182.jpg?t=1183006221
Reg
This one is 3800 lbs. I had it loaded with a fork truck and put in the shop with a front end loader.

[Dave MacArthur]

Well, thanks to everyone for their help. Unfortunately, the deal went south. Yesterday we had shook on the deal, and he assured me I could take a few days to figure out logistics/transportation, when we couldn't get it back-end into my truck. Today I called him and left a message I had a tilt trailer, and was on my way to get the trailer and pick it up. It's about a 2 hour deal to do it. Halfway there, get a call on my cell phone... some guy showed up with a tilt trailer, offered him more than I had bought it for. He sold it, guy loaded it right up and drove off. He apologized graciously, and I can kinda understand--$600 more--and I have my $, no problem, just a lot of time wasted, and the deal of a lifetime gone.

Taught me a few lessons...
1. Don't trust a handshake and $, if the tool is not in your possession, it's not yours (unless you want a big hassle with no good end).
2. Don't bring a knife to a gunfight. If I'm going to be checking CraigsList every day 5 times for "the deal of a lifetime" on a bandsaw, for 6 months, I need to have immediate transportation lined up. My Toyota just wasn't going to do it, without help lined up on my end.
3. I should have asked all these questions BEFORE I had a saw lined up, I would have been ready to dissassemble, load, and go. Unfortunately, I didn't perceive the difficulty until really faced with it.

Thanks everone for their help, if the guy hadn't sold the saw out from under me, I feel I was well-ready to roll that baby onto the tilt-trailer and strap it down. I had 8 2" tiedown straps, 5 2x4s for making some blocking, saws/drills for same, 160' of non-stretch static-line, and about 30 huge 5-7" bolts for anchoring tasks, as well as a downloaded and studied manual for dissassembling the table, motor, etc.. Most of it I had, only out the $$ for the trailer rental. I just didn't get out of work and over there in time to keep my deal.

BTW, $1000 for 2003 24" Jet bandsaw and about 12 blades, along with a DeWalt radial arm saw.

[Bob Aquino]

Sorry you didn't get the saw. Next time around, if you decide you want the saw or whatever it is, give the guy 10 bucks to hold the saw and get a receipt. Now you and he have a valid contract. He sells it to somebody else, you can take him to small claims court. Not that you would really want to, but it may make him think twice about stiffing you. A handshake deal is worth the paper its printed on as you found out.

[Steve Kohn]

Another approach that works. Pay the man the money, unbolt some important piece of the equipment and take it with you. Come back later for the rest.

In this case I think removing the motor and/or table would have soured any further offers.

[Garth Hulley]

Steve, a great idea. I did exactly that with a used jointer I bought last week. I took the fence home with me. I was not thinking that it would be sold to someone else, but instead I was just trying to reduce the weight I would have to carry. I returned two days later with an engine hoist to move the remaining 1400 pounds of cast iron.

[James Ayars]

When I moved from Fayetteville to Southern Pines I had to maove a 1000+ pound gun safe. I called a safe company and they had one of their delivery guys move it for me. We levered it up onto woonden dowels to move it across the floor and out the door. Winched it up onto a roll back wrecker and hauled it to my new place. Tilted the ben, winched it down then on dowels back into its new home. Cost me $100 and was worth every penny.
James

[Bill Wyko]

Call a flatbed tow truck. That's how I moved my 2000lb tool box. Good luck.:)

[Kermit Hodges]

Sorry you lost that deal. But you gained a valuable education in dealing with Old .. in your case used Wood Working Machines. Your comments summed it up perfect but I agree, make some cash change hands, a receipt and take a piece or two home.

It's a sad commentary on todays society when a mans word means nothing. A handshake used to be as good as written contract. Today fear and greed rule!

Kermit