Sheared off router bit!!

[allan cripe]

Hey all

I've done a quick search of the older threads and could not find any advice on broken router bit extraction. I have a broken 1/4" shaft from a ryobi 1/4 dado bit stuck in my collet, I've got a skil router (not the best, I know) and the bit broke halfway through the LAST of 12 dados I was doing. I am reletavely new to WW and now realize that I was asking WAY to much of my bit. The break is even with the top of the collet, unable to get any type of pliars on it. Is this a lost cause?? (Actally was wanting a new router, this one was a gift)

thanks for advice

al

[Mitchell Andrus]

Try heating the collet, and freezing the remainder bit. An auto parts store may have such a spray, or try a drug store for a spray wart remover, the freeze and kill kind. Then the piece will likely fall out with a good whack.

[jason lambert]

I don't hink you where asking to much of the bit probably just pushed a little hard or something. Next router 1/2" shanks ;)

[David DeCristoforo]

Will the collet come out of the router with the shank still in it? If so, you can use a drift to punch the shank out.

[Kyle Kraft]

Loosen the collet nut a turn and give it a mid grade tunk with the wrench on the flats...usually will pop the collet and bit loose.

[Grady Cowardin]

I know that's a small diameter to drill on center, but they make some pretty thin screw extractors that could get that bit out. You shouldn't need to put much torque on it to turn it once you get it drilled. Need to find a way to hold the shaft in place, the shaft lock/motor lock is about the only thing I love on my Ryobi :p

[Bill Huber]

The nut holding the collet should just unscrew and the collet will come right with it. I don't think I have ever seen a collet that could not be taken out.
Then as David stated just drift it out with a punch.

The bits are hardened steel and it would be very hard to drill it out to use an easy out on it.

[Greg Crawford]

Good luck with the bit. I had a 1/4" Ryobi plunge router and found it pretty nice. If the collet nut will come all the way off, there may be slits in the collet that you could get something into to push the bit out.

This is a good reason to have a router with interchangable collets, though. Then you can remove the whole collet and push the stub out. I'll also second the 1/2" shank suggestion. I try to use them for everything I can.

[Grady Cowardin]

I know the bits are made of tool steel but I've had to drill out a screw extractor that broke off (very cold engine block app!) so I know it isn't impossible. And on my el cheapo Ryobi the collet is integral to the shaft, all one piece so it can be removed. Trying to push it out with a flat blade thru the slits would be an option if the shank is visible there.

[Bill Huber]

I know the bits are made of tool steel but I've had to drill out a screw extractor that broke off (very cold engine block app!) so I know it isn't impossible. And on my el cheapo Ryobi the collet is integral to the shaft, all one piece so it can be removed. Trying to push it out with a flat blade thru the slits would be an option if the shank is visible there.

It can be done and I have done it myself, but it is not easy and you better have a really good bit to use and some spares.

I think his router is a Skil, the bit was a Ryobi.

[Bob Feeser]

I am not familiar with the Skil routers specifically, but I know that in the ones that I own, the collet nut that holds the bit, has to go through 2 loosenings in order to remove the bit, or the collet completely. This creates a lot of misunderstandings. First you loosen the collet, and it comes free. Then you continue to loosen the collet some more, a few turns more, then it hits a second resistance, which requires a wrench to loosen, then after loosening it some more, it comes free, and the broken shaft should just fall right out.
Router manufacturers have been using this system, to prevent bits flying at high speed if the collet should get loose. By having a second level of resistance, it means even if they get loose past the first turning, they will still hold.
In plain words, try loosening it a lot more, and see if it meets with a second resistance. Don't worry about over loosening, the collet is meant to come completely off, as I am sure you are well aware.
If you already have the collet off, and it still doesn't come out, then I just typed my butt off for nothing. :D

[Doug Shepard]

I'm wondering if you could draw it out (at least enough to get a grip on it) with a rare earth magnet or even just one of the shop type magnetic wands for fishing small parts out of tight places ???

[joe greiner]

If, after removing all loose parts, it's still stuck, a second-to-last resort could be to GENTLY whomp the router against something firm but cushioned. Anything more strenuous would likely damage the router. Best drill bits for drilling higher-strength steel are likely cobalt - the material, not the brand name with a "k". Cost two or three times as much as ordinary, but quite nice to work with.

Joe

[Hal Flynt]

2 ideas:

1.Push it in slightly to make it move say a 1/16" and see if it becomes loose enough to come out with some tapping or soft slamming onto something with a relief hole to let it drop enough to grab.

or

2. Epoxy a small dowel to the broken end, taking extreme care not to use so much that it permanently glues the shank to the collet. You could try a dab of contact cement first or anything that will stick to the shaft and the dowel. (super glue, hot melt,chewing gum....)