Pocket Door Track Recommendations

[Jeff Wright]

I am about to build a wall and install a pocket door. The wall will be wider than the standard 2x4 wall as the existing opening is in a block wall. Both sides of the wall are inside living areas. So the wall thickness to be built will be about 8 inches or so. I want to be sure the track I use is well constructed and a proven design to reduce future headaches. To reduce chances of a warping door causing problems I will use a raised panel hollow core door instead of a solid wood door.

What track system (manufacturer name, etc) do you recommend?

Also, any pointers for building the wall that you may have learned from making your own mistakes?

[Rob Bodenschatz]

Check out johnsonhardware.com. I'm in the process of converting hinged doors into bypass doors and that company was recommended to me. Can't speak from first hand experience, though.

[John Gregory]

I bought the Johnson brand and was very pleased with the system. There is a video on their sites that shows the install. I would definately recommend their product.

[Pete Bradley]

A third for Johnson. I put one in last year. Search the Breaktime forum at Fine Homebuilding and you'll find similar recommendations and more information.

Pete

[Ben Grunow]

We use this http://www.johnsonhardware.com/200pd.htm exclusively and we build a wall around the track system in 2x6.

Use a 2x6 top plate for the wall and plumb down to the floor for the bottom. Put 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" bottom plates down for the bottom of the wall (screw down so they are 5 1/2" out-out) and frame wall with good straight 2x4s on the flat. Now you have a solid wall with a 2 1/2" void in the middle. Rip a 2x4 to fit and install it between the studs at the desired height and make sure it is dead level and straight. Install the I beam to it and shim using washers under screws if necessary to keep it dead straight.

Hang doors and drink beer.

Hope that made sense.

Seems like a lot of work but it only takes a little more space and you have a wall that has strength and can hold a light switch or a picture instead of those cheesy metal channels and clips that are never any good from the get go. Cheap is cheap.

Ben

[Jeff Wright]

Thanks for the great info and resources from all of you.

Question: The opening that I will build the wall in has a masonry header that limits the existing rough opening to slightly more than 80 inches. The opening currently has a large sliding door (each of the two doors are four or five feet wide . . . they are really old sliders used years ago here in Florida). This existing "wall of sliders" once opened out onto a porch area from the bedroom, but now opens from the bedroom into the now enclosed porch which serves as a living room area.

I suspect I will have to trim the door height to fit. Do you foresee any problems in being forced to use that reduced-height opening?

[Bruce Wrenn]

There are two kinds of builders, those who use Johnson Pocket Door hardware kit, and those who wished they had. In my house, I have four pocket doors (all Johnson.) One is in a double 2 X 4 wall where new section meets old.( Wall had to be doubled to support the ends of upstairs trusses.) Just hang hardware in center of opening and widen trim pieces on both sides. No big deal.