Painting ash and birch ply questions

[Craig D Peltier]

Has anyone done so? I once recently bought a piece of red oak and painted with kilz primer and two coats of high gloss to see what my kitchen would look like painted but the grain really shows through so I decided against.
Will ash do the same thing? Im looking for a modern glossy look and ash is cheapest. I also could use birch if you think this is better or beech? Its on a built in with draws and many shelves 102 wide by 95 tall.
I will be using american birch ply for it has no plugs, is this the best? I know russian birch had plugs in it and didnt think it would look good.
Should I just use MDF with 3/4 hardwood face fronts on shelves instead of birch ply? Draws an doors have the european look to them set in flush no detail.
This is going in a nice home.

Thanks

[Jim O'Dell]

Ash will probably look the same as the oak. Unless you seal, fill and sand. But why use that type of wood if you are going to paint? I agree, a harder wood would be more durable, and last longer than the pines and poplars, but it needs to be a tight grain wood so it will paint well. Haven't priced birch, but it might be a good compromise. Maybe see what your wood supplier has at the best price? Otherwise I'd get ready to do a lot of filling and sanding. Jim.

[Steve Schoene]

Birch or maple (or poplar) take paint very well and don't have lots of grain to telegraph through the finish. Find a plywood distributor that caters to cabinet shops for quality plywood--hard (impossible) at big boxes, though some real lumber yards will do fine. There isn't much point in trying to save $50 on the plywood if it won't give great results. Most of the "cost" in such a project is your labor anyway.

[John Huber]

I've done three projects of painted baltic birch. All came out glossy, smooth, and no grain evident. Here's my process (others could be better):

1. Sand the raw wood down to 120 grit. Be sure to get into any interior corners.
2. Apply a thin coat of Kilz interior primer. Thick coats or exterior/interior primer take a long time to cure. I've found the cheap paint pads work very well and can be washed and reused. Use a narrow sash brush to touch up edges and corners. Wait overnight for a good cure.
3. Sand down the rough surface down to 120 grit. A little roughness (compared to clear finish work) gives the viscous paint better adhesion.
4. Apply a thin coat of high quality gloss paint. Use paint pads and sash brush as above. Most of the time no grain will be visible, even at the patches. If dissatisfied, repeat steps 3 and 4 after allowing at least one day to cure.

For both primer and finish coats, don't paint in direct sun, at temperatures over 80 deg F, or humidity over 70% for best results.

IMHO the problem you had with oak is because the new growth wood is very porous, more absorbent, and softer than the later growth. It is just its nature. For a smooth surface, use woods that are naturally smooth.

[Craig D Peltier]

I've done three projects of painted baltic birch. All came out glossy, smooth, and no grain evident. Here's my process (others could be better):

1. Sand the raw wood down to 120 grit. Be sure to get into any interior corners.
2. Apply a thin coat of Kilz interior primer. Thick coats or exterior/interior primer take a long time to cure. I've found the cheap paint pads work very well and can be washed and reused. Use a narrow sash brush to touch up edges and corners. Wait overnight for a good cure.
3. Sand down the rough surface down to 120 grit. A little roughness (compared to clear finish work) gives the viscous paint better adhesion.
4. Apply a thin coat of high quality gloss paint. Use paint pads and sash brush as above. Most of the time no grain will be visible, even at the patches. If dissatisfied, repeat steps 3 and 4 after allowing at least one day to cure.

For both primer and finish coats, don't paint in direct sun, at temperatures over 80 deg F, or humidity over 70% for best results.

IMHO the problem you had with oak is because the new growth wood is very porous, more absorbent, and softer than the later growth. It is just its nature. For a smooth surface, use woods that are naturally smooth.

Thanks for the step process.
I planned on getting american birch plywood at 3/4 for 68 and 1/2 for 60 a sheet.No plugs and I think I will use poplar instead of birch.Birch is about 1.50 more a BD ft here.
Thanks again

[Craig D Peltier]

Ash will probably look the same as the oak. Unless you seal, fill and sand. But why use that type of wood if you are going to paint? I agree, a harder wood would be more durable, and last longer than the pines and poplars, but it needs to be a tight grain wood so it will paint well. Haven't priced birch, but it might be a good compromise. Maybe see what your wood supplier has at the best price? Otherwise I'd get ready to do a lot of filling and sanding. Jim.


Thanks Jim thats what I was afraid of, I just need someone to concur with me.

[Doug Shepard]

... and I think I will use poplar instead of birch.Birch is about 1.50 more a BD ft here.
Thanks again

You wont be sorry. Poplar almost makes painting fun. I've never found anything that takes paint as nicely. It machines really well too.