Danish Oil Finish?

[Waymon Campbell]

I am buiding a cherry music box and plan on using Watco Danish Oil (Cherry) for the finish. I have about three coats on a sample piece and it looks great. Question is, what to put over the top of the Watco to give some additional protection and luster. Spray laquer, wipe on poly, or buffed wax? Anyone have pix of a completed piece using any or all of the above?

Thanks...
Waymon

[Wolf Kiessling]

I am buiding a cherry music box and plan on using Watco Danish Oil (Cherry) for the finish. I have about three coats on a sample piece and it looks great. Question is, what to put over the top of the Watco to give some additional protection and luster. Spray laquer, wipe on poly, or buffed wax? Anyone have pix of a completed piece using any or all of the above?

Thanks...
Waymon

Danish oil is generally my finish of choice, Waymon, and I rarely cover it with anything. I use it on both carvings and turnings. Every great once in a while I will top coat it with wax but I haven't done it for a very long time and don't remember why I ever did it. Sorry, no picture available of a wax coated danish oil finish. In my estimation, danish oil finishes don't really need additional protection and you can make them as lustrous as you want by regulating the build up of the finish.

Wolf

[Mark Singer]

I agree with Wolf. I use a different oil but it is almost the same. You could put Watco satin wax or a paste wax over it ...but make sure it cures for about 72 hours. You can spray a polyurathane over it wait at least 4 days after the last coat of oil.
The oil by itsef is great. I use Daly's and it is a great oil.
Mark

[Ken Wright]

I've always used Briwax Danish ... I guess because of the ole "helping out the Pond Days".

Depending on your initial wood smoothness ... I start at either 120 or 220 grit ... and step sand to 600. As I apply each coat of Danish I'll buff the piece with 0000 steel wool. After about 5-6 coats on cherry you should find a real nice finish with a low lustre shine that appears natural rather than glossy. The more coats and buffing the higher the sheen.

Its important that the sanding be done thoroughly but it will give a really nice finish. Also important is the room temp to avoid a gooey mess.... anything above about 60* seems to work well for me. You should also, after the first application, make each coat less heavy and mix it with a lot of elbow grease. Its a lot of work but worth the effort. I have projects that are over three years old now that still look as good as they did when originally finished and that includes some walnut table tops.

[Paul Smith]

I've had some success with Tung oil by applying the last coat or two with wet-or-dri sandpaper, up to 2000 grit. You can get this at auto parts stores, around the body work supplies.