Router Suggestions

[Grady Cowardin]

Hello all, I'm new here and have already found a lot of good info and interesting projects. I did some searching but didn't really find what I was looking for. I'm relatively new to woodworking but have a good # of tools. My Ryobi 1 3/4 HP Router is fine for handheld apps but I am wanting to build a nice size table and purchase a router with 1/2" and 1/4" shank capacity. I would like to do some panel raising when I get better at things but am not sure if I really need a big hoss 3+ HP router.

I had my eye on the M12V2 but the price went up and it will need a 3/8" plate to keep things level. A buddy ordered me a slab of 1/2" alum which we will mill down to fit whatever table I come up with. I am mainly curious if all I really need is a 2 1/4 HP router. I like how some of the bigger routers can raise and lower a wide bit through their baseplate without interfering with anything. My price range is definitely under $200 with $150 shipped being ideal. I should have just snagged the Hitachi when it was on Amazon at that price instead of taking my chances on epay.

I know the preferred method for bit changing is being able to raise the chuck above the table and 2 wrench it loose. Does anyone know if the lock button can be accessed from above or just below the table opening? That would not be fun having to go under the table to release bits. Thanks for any info, I appreciate it!

[pat warner]

Some notes on selecting routers. (http://patwarner.com/selecting_router.html)

[Grady Cowardin]

Nice write up and great pics. I see you recommend a fixed based high horse router directly mounted to a piece of MDF for a table. Is that with another layer attached to the top to make it more sturdy and a cutout for the base diameter to keep the depth of travel in a decent range? I would think a heavy router would warp a piece of MDF. I know most hardcore woodworkers are up north and it is so humid here in Houston that I can see my MDF change shapes on a weekly basis. What are your opinions of the M12V2 for table use? Thank you for the info.

[David Tiell]

Grady,
I've had a PC 7518 3 1/4 hp router in my router table with an MDF top for going on 7 years now with no problem. The top is made of two layers of 3/4" MDF glued and screwed together with melamine laminate glued on top and a Rousseau (sp?) router plate inset into the top. I am happy with the fixed base router in my table, but some like the plunge.

BTW, if you are still interested in the M12V2, it is routinely available new on that auction site with a "buy-it-now" price of $125-135, with shipping added for a roughly $150 total.

[glenn bradley]

I run a Mil 5625 and have been very happy. The electronic speed control and soft start work very well. I have to remind myself to take light cuts because if I take deep cuts, the router gives no indication that it cares. I just don't want to work it that hard.

[Greg Crawford]

Gary,

Over the years I've learned that I want a couple of things in a router table. The foremost is that the routed edge is nice. If the router isn't perfectly perpendicular, and the insert around the bit isn't perfectly flat, the result can be much less than satisfactory. The other biggy for me is adjustability. More often than not, I wind up needing to make small adjustments to my bit height, so for me adjusting from above or outside the cabinet was important. I finally went with the Jessem Master Lift XL, the one that is attached right to the phenolic top. It will adjust in thousandths, has little or no backlash, adjusts from the side and the readout is on the right front corner where it isn't hidden by the fence. It was expensive, and I was a little dissapointed in the quality of the machining on the aluminum ring that the twist lock rings fit into, but overall I love it.

As for router size, I use a Bosch 1617 in the lift, which is underpowered for taking off a lot of material. I plan on getting a Milwaukee 5625 with the remote speed control if I can save enough money. Of course, I have more money tied up in my router table than a good shaper would cost, but I don't do very many operations that would require a shaper, and the router table is easier to setup and adjust.

I hope you wind up with a great setup for your needs.

[Aaron Beaver]

I know the preferred method for bit changing is being able to raise the chuck above the table and 2 wrench it loose. Does anyone know if the lock button can be accessed from above or just below the table opening? That would not be fun having to go under the table to release bits. Thanks for any info, I appreciate it!

I was using two wrenches until I got this http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=1936 couldn't be happier with it and I have had no problems with it.

[Grady Cowardin]

Thanks for all the replies.

Where does one get melamine sheeting and can it be had without a wood backing like formica? I just want to snag a 2'x3' piece from a home builder instead of paying $50 for a full sheet. I'm sure they throw away larger piece of formica quite frequently.

The Milwaukee big boy is definitely a powerful router, price aside it would be in my top choices ;) .

I'm guessing that quick change chuck is balanced and doesn't cause any added vibration?

[Jim Becker]

Grady, in my area, Home Depot sells 1/4 sheets of laminate so you don't have to buy a full sheet. I've often bought them for shop projects including for two separate router tables.

[Grady Cowardin]

I think I noticed they sold partial sheets but the minimum size equaled $25 or $30 after all was said and done. If you start adding up costs like that plus a plate plus tracks etc you might as well buy a ready built table. I already have a decent fence I put together so I'm trying to stick with the DIY for this. That chunk of alum for plate would work great granted I can mill it perfectly flat. Trying to get in good with the shop manager at my new job!

[pat warner]

" a cutout for the base diameter to keep the depth of travel in a decent range? I would think a heavy router would warp a piece of MDF. I know most hardcore woodworkers are up north and it is so humid here in Houston that I can see my MDF change shapes on a weekly basis. What are your opinions of the M12V2 for table use? Thank you for the info"

Some principles of the Router table at the link (http://patwarner.com/router_table.html).

M12: An expendable tool, popular, a price that can't be beat, often in the router table, here for >22 years. Not for this tech.

[Grady Cowardin]

Ok, ok, you've convinced me to save up for the big Milwaukee, twist my arm why don't ya :D

[scott spencer]

Ok, ok, you've convinced me to save up for the big Milwaukee, twist my arm why don't ya :D

ok... :)

epinions.com/MW5625 (http://www1.epinions.com/content_245903494788)

[Bill Wyko]

IMHO I'd save up for the Porter Cable 7518. 3hp, slow start, variable speed. I own 2 of them and they get abused. I've had both of them for around 3 years and literally burry them in sawdust and have never even worn out a brush. Speaking of brushes, I'd be sure that what ever you choose it should have replacable brushes. Another nice thing about the PC is that almost every pro quality lift is made for this router then adapters are made for everything else. There happens to be some PC routers going on sale at woodcraft in July too. I don't know if that particular one is, but it's worth checking into. Anyway, good luck with your purchase.

[Grady Cowardin]

In a lift the 7518 is great but I am not too keen on having to spin the motor to raise and lower it. I know you can trim the cord to be much shorter and install an easier to operate motor clamp but the Milwaukee is in the same price range and almost includes a built in lift. They make great tools and there are plenty of lifts out there that fit its motor. I think just about all decent routers have replaceable brushes, and yes that is a must have.