Minwax Antique Oil v. Watco

[Roger Bell]

I see that a number of you use Minwax Antique oil, followed by a buffing regime. I am new to this product. I am interested in experimenting with something different for bowls than shellac, lacquer, varnish and other film finishes.

From the looks of it, it appears to be an penetrating oil-varnish blend that is heavy on the thinner....similar to Watco, but with less odor. It also appears to produce a bit more gloss than Watco.

Is that true? If not, what are the major differences? Can I expect a greater finish "build" than I might from Watco (which typically isn't much). Does anyone know what kind of oil is used in the formulation?

I make these observations from having used it for a couple of coats on some tool handles.

For those of you who use it, how many coats do you usually use on bowls and how long do you typically wait until buffing? Do any of you not buff over the Minwax?

[Jim Becker]

I've used both and prefer (surprising to me...) the Minwax Antique Oil Finish. I like its color better and the end results. That said, I'd use the Watco (or a home-brew wiping varnish) if I didn't have the former available.

My method is to wipe the finish on the piece while still mounted on the lathe, turning it by hand as I go. I let it "dry" for a half hour or so, and then use a soft, lint-free paper towel to "push" the finish through friction with the lathe running at a medium speed. I'll repeat that for several coats and then let it cure over night. I then remount to clean up the bottom and carefully apply finish in the same manner to the "bare spot" on or off the lathe as the case may be. I wait at least a week, if not two, before buffing with the Beall system.

[Marc Martindale]

I'm often surprised that I log into the Creek and someone asks the exact question I was going to search for.

Another aspect I was wondering about is using it on lighter woods. I noticed a distinct darkening using Deft Danish Oil on a piece of Box Elder turned as a short end grain bowl. Travis' light grained forms look undarkened by oil to me (using Antique Oil).

Thanks for any 'light' that can be shed on this.

[Dennis Peacock]

The Antique Oil is a good finish. I've been using another brand of antique oil and it works ok...but it doesn't give the nice shine to a turning like the Minwax brand does. Mark Cothren, Travis Stinson, and others have used antique oil with very beautiful results. The best I can remember is that 2 coats are applied. 1st coat gets rubbed in nice and heavy for about 5 minutes, then wiped down real well. The next day, rub on a 2nd coat. I haven't mastered the "glass" look with antique oil yet, but Travis and others have it mastered for a very beautiful finish/look.

On light colored wood that I want to stay as light as possible, I've learned to experiment with Tung Oil and BLO. Thinned Tung Oil, for me any way, has left the lighter woods more light colored than using Watco, BLO, or any other varnish blend of oils that has an amber color to it. Even though the Tung Oil looks amber color out of the can, in my experience with it, it leave the wood lighter in color.

Finishing turnings is like finishing furniture IMHO....it's an art that must be learned through experimentation with various blends. It's just that some are easier than others to get the look/feel you are after.

[Travis Stinson]

I love the Minwax Antique oil. I've found that it doesn't darken light colored woods near as much as Danish oil. Like Dennis said, I apply a thick coat and wipe off the excess after about 5 minutes, then repeat the next day. The day after the 2nd coat, I buff. Danish oil needs to cure several days before buffing, but I have buffed the Antique oil in as little as 8 hrs after the 2nd coat.
Jim, I'd be afraid to try to "push" the Antique oil to finish on the lathe, especially after drying for 30 minutes! :eek: In my experience with it, after 5 minutes or so, it starts to gum up so badly that it's tough to wipe off with a paper towel by hand. ;)

[Patrick Taylor]

Another aspect I was wondering about is using it on lighter woods. I noticed a distinct darkening using Deft Danish Oil on a piece of Box Elder turned as a short end grain bowl. Travis' light grained forms look undarkened by oil to me (using Antique Oil).

I use Watco danish oil, 2 coats, then dry for a few days before buffing. The red maple piece I posted here (http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=60076) is very light and was not darkened by the oil.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

After seeing Travis and others have such good luck with Minwax Antique Oil recently I had my local Ace hardware store order in two cans for me. I've only used it on 2 projects and here's my take as compared to danish oil.....1) it seems to build a protective coat faster...2 coats seems to be more than enough......2) It produces a glossier finish.

It's more expensive than the typical danish oil finish but I'll buy more ...I like the end results!

[Patrick Taylor]

After seeing Travis and others have such good luck with Minwax Antique Oil recently I had my local Ace hardware store order in two cans for me. I've only used it on 2 projects and here's my take as compared to danish oil.....1) it seems to build a protective coat faster...2 coats seems to be more than enough......2) It produces a glossier finish.

It's more expensive than the typical danish oil finish but I'll buy more ...I like the end results!

Thanks for the comparison Ken. I'll have to try it. Besides, I'm certainly not spending enough on finishing supplies... at least when compared to tools! :rolleyes:

[Jeffrey Fusaro]

roger--

i've used antique oil on my last several bowls. i like it because it is very easy to use and the final 'satin' finish is what i am after.

i don't have any buffing equipment, yet, so i have not finished any projects that way.

i like the satin finish as it does not seem to get between me and the wood. i like to be able to see the wood figure without having the 'glassy' look. since my work isn't perfect, the satin finish is also a bit more forgiving than a high gloss finish.

i usually finish turning and sanding the bowl and apply the finish off of the lathe. this is another nice trait of antique oil - it dries quickly. you don't have to do one side and wait for it to dry before going to the second side. i completely cover the bowl and let it stand for about five minutes, then wipe off with an old tee-shirt cloth. i've left the oil on longer, and it only gets stickier and more difficult to remove. two coats is sufficient.

i follow up with a coat, or two, of rennaissance wax to keep finger printing to a minimum.

[Mike Vickery]

I use both Miniwax and Watco. Watco seems to be much thinner and does not build like the Antique oil. I use them to get different looks on my turnings. The Watco I think gives more of a natural wood look to it, while the antique oil looks more like a film finish and has more gloss.
As another note if the piece has pyrography or textureing on it I use Watco since it seems easier to get out of the nooks and crannies.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I also use Minwax and Watco.

[Ellen Benkin]

I have used Minwax Antique Oil on furniture with excellent results. I find that with wood like mahogany it takes about 7-8 coats to fill the pores and get a good sheen.

There's also a rumor that it will be pulled from the market because of VOC regulations, but I'm still finding it in the stores.

[Frank Kobilsek]

Roger

Watching Travis I swithed from Watco Danish to the Antique oil earlier this year.

For both I will spend 40 minutes or more wiping the oil on the piece while still on the lathe. As soon as I see a dry spot I wipe on more with another paper towel. I really slop them on. The Antique oil shows the dry spots faster and this process can only go on until I start feeling a gum under the new coats. When I feel the gum I wipe it off gently. A couple days later I finish the bottom of the piece and give the whole piece another coat of oil after a gentle buff with 0000 steel wool.

In a week or two I buff. I think Travis is right that Antique could be buffed much sooner. I'm kind of a batch processor. Finish a bunch of bottoms in a row and buff a bunch of piece in one evening. My buffer probably only gets set-up every 5 or 6 weeks.

Mike is right about the pyro or carving work. Watco is the ticket there.

I bought little flip top artist paint bottles to store small batches of finishes in. If you open the can time you need some it will thicken or harden on you.

Frank