Zero clearance inserts for TS

[Eric Gustafson]

What do you guys use for stock to make your own ZCI for table saws? I need the material to be ~ 1/8" and it would tappable so I could add set screws for height adjustment. I guess plexiglass would work. I am interested what SMC folk have used.

[frank shic]

i just buy the ones from either rockler or peachtree but if i had a different saw i would probably purchase one of those betterly inserts with the replaceable insert. i've made them before in the past out of whatever was lying around but figured by the time i plane it to the right thickness, rough trim and then flush trim with the existing blade insert that i could have used that time doing something more productive!

[Matt Benton]

I just planed down 1/2" mdf until I got the perfect thickness.

Why do you need the ability to adjust the height?

[Jim Becker]

Eric, it sounds like you have a saw that has an insert made of very thin material. To make a ZCI, you'll want material that can be strong when very thin and machinable so you can have it a little thicker in the field while machining the edges to the necessary thin profile. I have that situation with my Mini Max slider and plan on using a phenolic material, although it's unfortunately quite expensive.

[Mike Cutler]

Plexiglass, scrapwood, or MDF.

The ZCI you are making sounds like the ZCI on my General Hybrid saw. I have two made out of 1/8" lexan,. but the storebought one by Leecraft( Sold at WoodCraft) is better than the one I made. The middle is much thicker than the sides which makes a much stiffer ZCI.
Look at the Leecraft ZCI's and you'll get an idea.

[Pat Germain]

I have a Craftsman table saw which requires very thin inserts. I opted to buy the pre-fab ZCI at my local Woodcraft. It wasn't too expensive and making my own would be a major chore.

[Cody Colston]

For my 1023 I use 1/2" plywood with laminate on both sides. It's level with the table top without adjustment screws.

[Sam Shank]

1/2" MDF.

You can add drywall screws to the front and the side to adjust for a snug fit (just like on the commercial ones).

No need to sand to thickness. Just use your BOSS, drill press, etc to sand 4 spots a little thinner.

Use hot melt glue to level. A little dab of wax on the TS insert 'wings' will keep the glue stuck to the insert and not the saw.

[glenn bradley]

Eric, what kind of saw? My old C-man required a 3/16 insert. I used 1/4" hardboard and put a 1/16" rabbet around the edge to allow it to sit flush. If I needed adjustments I stuck layers of tape to the cast 'ears' to adjust as the material was so thin. Mine screwed down at the front and I used a 8 penny nail at the rear to emulate the keeper pin on the original/

[Don Morris]

For years I made several out of Baltic Birch until I got my new 1023SL. Then I got a phenolic prefab. I love the phenolic prefab, but the BB worked just as well.

[Eric Gustafson]

I have a Craftsman table saw which requires very thin inserts. I opted to buy the pre-fab ZCI at my local Woodcraft. It wasn't too expensive and making my own would be a major chore.


Eric, what kind of saw? My old C-man required a 3/16 insert. I used 1/4" hardboard and put a 1/16" rabbet around the edge to allow it to sit flush. If I needed adjustments I stuck layers of tape to the cast 'ears' to adjust as the material was so thin. Mine screwed down at the front and I used a 8 penny nail at the rear to emulate the keeper pin on the original/

Yes. I hated to admit it , but I have a Craftsman saw. I have seen some of the store bought ZCI's, for ~$15 a piece, but that could get a little expensive when you need one for the blade and other's for various dado inserts. Maybe I will not use the TS for dados now that I set the saw up with a INCRA and router insert.

[Gary Keedwell]

I Happen to work at a place that has alot of different plastics so I get it for free. I also get the set screws for free. I drill and tap (usually 1/4-20) in four places and I'm ready to go. I don't bother with the router method. I measure the width and length...rip and cross-cut on TS. and round the four corners on the sander. The whole thing takes about 15 minutes.;)
Gary K.

[Tom Veatch]

What do you guys use for stock to make your own ZCI for table saws? I need the material to be ~ 1/8" and it would tappable so I could add set screws for height adjustment. I guess plexiglass would work. I am interested what SMC folk have used.

I made mine using 1/2" UHMW as a base and cut a sliding dovetail slot to hold replaceable hardboard inserts. Old one getting ratty or need a new tilt angle, slide in a new, blank insert.

UHMW machines well, holds threads for adjusting setscrews, is low friction, and, for my money, the optimum material for a zero clearance insert.

1/8" sounds awfully thin for a table saw insert. I suspect anything other than metal is going to be too flexible.

["Jason Belous"]

hope you don't have a paten yet tom. I am going to copy your idea if you don't mind. This will save alot of time on multiple inserts. Very good idea.
I have been making mine out of hickory and cherry scraps. with a little work on the router table you can shape, and use a straight bit with a bearing to hog out the lip for the TS leaving the meat in the middle of the insert to be cut out. They are actualy pretty enjoyable to make and will only take about 15 minutes or so once you've made a couple. And in my opinion a nice piece of hardwood looks nice on the table as well.

[Tom Veatch]

hope you don't have a paten yet tom. I am going to copy your idea if you don't mind. ...

Don't mind a bit. Wish I could claim originality, but I pretty much copied the basic idea myself. Forget where I ran across it, but it was a couple of years ago and I've been doing it that way ever since.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Don't mind a bit. Wish I could claim originality, but I pretty much copied the basic idea myself. Forget where I ran across it, but it was a couple of years ago and I've been doing it that way ever since.Shop Notes, the issue with bent laminations article. There was a landing net on the cover, if I remember correctly.

[Hal Flynt]

I glued two layers of 1/4" hardboard (Masonite) together with contact cement. I cut blanks from the resulting panel. Band sawed close to the profile of my factory insert, and then used a pattern bit to rout the final out side shape with the factory insert as the pattern. (I think I made about 8 blanks from some scrap hardboard at one time). I have some 3/16" set screws that I put in 1/8" holes for leveling and relieve the leveling pads with a router bit (PM66).

The rest is pretty standard. Use a dado blade to relieve the bottom a bit.

[Narayan Nayar]

Corian works well. Really well, until you drop it on the concrete shop floor... :(

You can usually get corian scraps from kitchen installers/designers.

[Bruce Volden]

I also use the scrap pieces of Corian!!! Another thing I do is recess a pair of strong (rare earth) magnets into the ZCI and glue them in. 'Course you have to get the ZCI adjusted just so for your make of saw.


Bruce