Band saw for metal

[Rick Potter]

I have a Delta 14" bandsaw that I don't use, and would like to modify it for cutting metal. I know Delta made one with two speeds for wood and metal. Perhaps someone could tell me what size pullys they used for metal cutting.

OR...perhaps someone has done this to their wood cutting band saw and could tell me what size pullys to use for this purpose.


Thanks,

Rick Potter
Upland CA.

[Pete Bradley]

The speed needs to be reduced by more than is doable with a typical pulley swap. Delta Wood/metal machines had a gearbox to do the reduction, and some other makes used a countershaft setup.

If you're cutting thin nonferrous metal such as brass or aluminum though, you can probably do it with a metalworking band in the machine you've got.

Pete

[Matt Meiser]

Maybe you could find a suitable gearbox at Surplus Center (http://www.surpluscenter.com)?

[Brent Dowell]

Aaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrgghhh.

Not another site destined to siphon off my meager salary!

But seriously, what a cool site!

[Rick Lizek]

You will have to get it from approx 4,000 sfpm to around 50 sfpm which requires a gear box. Your best bet is to sell the extra bandsaw and buy an import horizontal/vertical metal cutting saw. for around $250. Perfect for cutting long pieces of steel and can be propped vertical for cutting small pieces. If you need to be able to cut small scroll type things you would be better converitng the Delta but it would have limitations on other metal saw operations. You don't necessarily need an oil lube system for steel.

I cur non-ferrous with my table saw and a negative hook blade routinely. Better than a bandsaw for straight cuts. They do have a new style saw and blade that uses what appears to be a regular carbide blade but is designed for steel. It's typicaly used in a skil type saw at 3450 rpm but have also used it in my table saw. Very low spark type cut compared to the abrasive blades.

[Jeff Patrick]

Rick

I have done exactly what you are proposing. I needed a metal cutting b/s and the 14" was available having been largly replaced by a 20". I installed two jack shafts to get the blade speed down to an acceptable speed. I think it's at about 300 fpm now, that is a bit fast but acceptable for the light work I do with the saw. The pully sizes are (starting at the motor): 2 3/4" belt to combo pully 6"/2", belt from the 2" side to another combo 5"/2", belt from the 2" side to the final 8" that is mounted on the drive wheel. Bigger destination pullys will reduce the speed further. I probably used these sizes because that's what I could get the day I did it. I've used this saw as a steel cutter for over ten years and it still is grand.

Beware that this conversion is most likely a one way street without some major cleanup. The tires are impacted with steel chips, there's grit in the guides, and the table gets more than a little scratched.

Let me know if there's more info you need.

[Matt Meiser]

Rick, before sinking a bunch of money into the conversion, you might look at one of the 4x6 bandsaws designed for cutting metal. I have one from Harbor Freight which has been more than adequate with a good quality blade (I can get you the information on the blade if you'd like.) They go on sale for $160 regularly. You could probably sell your existing saw for more than that. You can use them as a vertical bandsaw as well, but I would upgrade the table first. There is a Yahoo group for 4x6 band saw owners with a lot of good ideas.

[Noah Katz]

I cur non-ferrous with my table saw and a negative hook blade routinely. Better than a bandsaw for straight cuts. They do have a new style saw and blade that uses what appears to be a regular carbide blade but is designed for steel. It's typicaly used in a skil type saw at 3450 rpm but have also used it in my table saw. Very low spark type cut compared to the abrasive blades.

I got one of those, a 12" Morse Metal Devil blade for my CMS, which I slow down to about half speed with a router speed control..

I haven't used it enough yet to know, but I think I might sell my horiz metal cutting BS.

It's looking like the new blade w/CMS is much faster, with much straigter cuts and the ability to do accurate angle cuts.

[Matt Meiser]

Noah, how is that for throwing chips everywhere? I'm imagining it being like sawdust and making a huge, sharp mess? Is that the case or does the slower speed keep things close by? One nice thing about the bandsaw is that the mess mostly falls straight down after the cut.

[Noah Katz]

"I'm imagining it being like sawdust and making a huge, sharp mess?"

Precisely :)

I still need to make a DC shroud for the CMS.

[Rick Potter]

Thank you so much for the quick answers. I must have had a brain fade when I asked the question. I forgot I once bought a nice Delta metal cutting bandsaw for a friend for less than $250 a couple years ago.

This saw I have is almost new, got it for a song in one of my dealings. My best bet is to sell it and get a saw made for what I want, which is minor general metalworking on my hot rods.

I have a bunch of woodworking tools I don't need, and will get them advertised someday soon.

Thanks again,

Rick (new shop, no time) Potter

[Joe Chritz]

I converted an off brand import saw to metal cutting by making a stand on the bottom and adding a third pulley to slow the speed down.

It works OK and would be very good with some added support for the stand so it doesn't flex.

I used mine for cutting out knife blanks from tool steel which is about as bad as you will find for cutting steel.

I had a wax type lube that helped a lot.

Joe

[Rick Lizek]

I got one of those, a 12" Morse Metal Devil blade for my CMS, which I slow down to about half speed with a router speed control..

I haven't used it enough yet to know, but I think I might sell my horiz metal cutting BS.

It's looking like the new blade w/CMS is much faster, with much straigter cuts and the ability to do accurate angle cuts.

Really amazing blades. I belive it was pioneered by a German company called Jancy Engineering as I saw it about ten years ago. The salesman cut therough a piece of cold rolled 1/2" plate like it was wood with almost no sparks. The saw was pretty much a skil type saw non-tilting but did run at 3450 rpm. Ever since then I've seen Milwaukee, Makita and even Harbor Freight with these saws and blades now. I would still keep my horizontal/vertical bandsaw because I cut curves with it. You still can't beat the table saw and a negative hook blade for non-ferrous. I've ripped brass angle stock and even 2" x 2" in half and was pretty comfortable with the process. However I have cut a lot over the years so have become quite proficient at the process. Scares the hell of out some folks watching me but never even had a close call. Brass moves a lot like wood and often have to straighten out the stock by bending which is the only real difference between cutting wood and brass.