BLO Help -- Brand Names?

[Don Bullock]

The following is a quote from Jim Becker:


...BLO is boiled linseed oil...not really "boiled"...that's just the name and refers to the product that has dryers added so it will cure, unlike raw linseed oil. You can buy it at the 'borg in a gallon can quite inexpensively. It's also the main ingredient in many oil-based varnishes.

Is there a particular brand that I should be looking for? I'm going to be using it to finish a small Shaker style table.

[Steve Schoene]

For wood finishing purposes, their aren't significant differences among the varnous brands. This may be the only finish you can actually buy at one of the big box stores.

Of course, BLO isn't much of a finish, offering almost no protection against anything. I'd suggest you mix some varnish in with the oil, along with enough thinner so that it applies easily. Put this on just like you would apply the oil. Apply liberally, let penetrate for a short while, and then wipe off all that remains on the surface. A lot more protective, and I'd bet if you compare this on a sample with a similar BLO sample that you won't tell the difference by appearance.

[Don Bullock]

I was planning on using BLO as the first step and applying something else on top of it. All I need are some brand names to look for at the store.

[Steve Schoene]

That's by far the best use for BLO. Of course, Shaker's didn't often use clear film finishes, I don't think. Over the BLO, shellac works well, and any varnish will work, but if you have in mind a waterborne finish you should let the BLO get well cured--you can tell when the smell disappears when you sniff up close. It probably takes more than a week.

[Tim Sproul]

I've got some from the Big Box and some Tried and True.

In terms of end result, there is little difference. The Tried and True is different though. It is much thicker - heat it or thin it for easier application - than the big box stuff. It does not have heavy metal catalysts to promote the polymerization of the linseed oil...the polymerization is what is the curing process of going from oil to solid. BLO was originally truly heated....probably not actually boiled but heated to kick-start the polymerization process. Heat, in the presence of oxygen, causes chemical reactions in the oil. You can cause similar chemistry using heavy metal atoms in place of heat so most modern BLO contains trace or small amounts of heavy metals. Without a catalyst or a kick-start, linseed oil essentially remains an oil for millenia. IIRC, there are many oil paintings from the 17th century that are still truly OIL paintings since the oil paint used was linseed oil based (not the boiled variety).

[Jim Becker]

Unless I'm using the oil "as the finish", for decorative items, for example, I just use plain old 'borg BLO in the gallon can. (I use T&T, both in just oil and the oil/beeswax version, for said decorative items)

[Don Bullock]

That's by far the best use for BLO. Of course, Shaker's didn't often use clear film finishes, I don't think. Over the BLO, shellac works well, and any varnish will work, but if you have in mind a waterborne finish you should let the BLO get well cured--you can tell when the smell disappears when you sniff up close. It probably takes more than a week.

Steve, thanks for the information. I'm planning on trying out some different finishes to see what I like best. The table is being made out of cherry and I've read from many here that BLO really pops the grain of cherry, so that's why I'm looking for a clear finish for the table.


I've got some from the Big Box and some Tried and True.

Tim, that's what I was looking for. Since I've never used BLO before, that I can remember, I wanted to know what I was looking for at the store. I'll keep all of what you said about T&T in mind. I was thinking of mixing it 50/50 with mineral spirits to thin it.


Unless I'm using the oil "as the finish", for decorative items, for example, I just use plain old 'borg BLO in the gallon can. (I use T&T, both in just oil and the oil/beeswax version, for said decorative items)

Jim, thanks for the information. I guess what I really need to know is what am I looking for at the borg. There are so many cans of a lot of stuff that I have no idea how to tell the can with the BLO from all the others.

As for what I'm pluuing on top of the BLO, I've picked up many ideas on the forums. I know that Jim favors garnet shellac. I've seen others who have said that they like blonde or orange shellac. I plan to test all three of these. Rockler has Shellac Kits in all three "colors" so I thouight that the next time I was over there I'd get one of each. Nancy seems to favor laquer, so I thought I'd try straight laquer and laquer over BLO. Yes, I realize that the BLO has to cure before I try any of these choices. I'm also going to try whatever the instructor of the class I'm taking suggests.

If all goes well with the class and I get the piece finished well, I'll finally have a gloat for my first piece of furniture in well over twenty years. At this point it's still ify, but I have enougn confidence that I'll pull it off. Thanks for all your encouragement and help. Yes, I'm having fun now.:D

[Jim Becker]

Don, the can says "Boiled Linseed Oil" and is in the same place as the paint thinner, alcohol, naptha and other "canned goods" in the paint department.

[Don Bullock]

Thanks Jim. That's exactly what I needed to know. I just didn't see it there when I was at the borg yesterday getting some items for the house.

[Dave Anderson NH]

Hi Don, You've already received good advice from a number of folks about your question so I won't pile on with the same info. I would suggest that your general approach of trying a number of different types of finish is a good one. There are different types of projects, different wood species, and all kinds of other variables. No single finish will be best for all situations and at times you will want to have different looks and levels of durability. Try everything you can and add as many weapons to your arsenal as possible. Save your scraps and cutoffs and use them to test out different ideas. Often the best approach will be using multiple finishes on top of each other or on different parts of the same project. No one can have too many aces up their sleeve.:D

[Don Bullock]

Dave, thanks for the encouragement on my approach to my task at hand. After I finish this table I plan to make one of similar size, but more in the Greene & Greene style. Since I'm making this one out of chery and the tables will both be in a room with a cherry dining table and chairs that my wife and I bought a couple years ago, I figure that the time and money I spend investigating how different finishes on cherry look will be a good investment. Your quote,


Try everything you can and add as many weapons to your arsenal as possible.

is a good one.