Drying Fresh Cut mahognay?

[Tom Solomon]

I have been lucky enough to come across a mahogany tree that has been removed and the entire tree, Stump, trunk and lower branches, all placed at my house for milling. Presently I do not have a kiln of anytype and was woundering if there is any other way to dry this wood. the trunk is appr. 3' in Dia, and 8' long. the stump and root ball area is approximately 40" in Dia and most of the root clusters that are left are 12"+ in dia. I would like to use the stump and root clusters for turning stock. I would like to make a few slabs out of the top of the stump and the trunk for table tops. I started cutting slabs today out of the stump and have put 3 in my attic to dry with evaporator to help dry.. most of the turning stock that are smaller I plan to do thee boiling for 1hour per inch of thickness after I turn them. if anyone has any ideas.. Please tell.. Oh yea I live in Florida so it is always Hot and Humid here.. Thanks in advance.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Have it milled up sticker it and put it inside or under a cover. Then wait. Then wait some more.
Then some more. In a few years - - - - -

It takes a while.

[Jim Becker]

Drying in your attic may result in problems because there is not enough air flow and too much heat...it's uncontrolled, in other words. Stickering and stacking your lumber outside where there is good air flow (ie...wind) with something on top of the stack to keep standing water off is the best method for air-drying your flat stock. Moisture needs to leave the wood and be wicked off by the air movement.

Oh, and you're a lucky guy ending up with a whole mahogany tree in your lap! Sheesh!

[Earl Kelly]

Tom,

The attic is a very bad idea. It's much too hot and dry up there. Not to mention the weight of the green wood. And the moisture added to the attic from the wood.

Sticker it and cover with weight on top so air can circulate thru the stack. And no rain(Hurricanes don't count) can hit the wood. Figure a minimum of a yr per inch thickness. Then take inside in the AC(or a dry room) for a month or two before using. Better yet get a moisture meter and check the wood frequently after a yr or so.

Earl

[Tom Solomon]

Thanks Jim for the information removed the wood from the attic this morning and found a place to keep it out of direct sunlight and built almost like a leanto type tent. hopefully this will allow air movement for drying.. Started milling up the Y crotch's today and looks like I wil have alot of very nice wood for turning, hopeing when I start milling up the stump I will find alot of Burl..

[Jack Briggs]

Seal the ends!!!! Get a gallon or so of Anchorseal - about $15 and paint it on the ends before covering up and waiting as long as you can stand to. All air-dried woods still need some amount of kilning before putting into service. I try for 6-8% EMC for my tonewoods before use. This is simply not possible here in the Southeast without kilning the final 2-3%.

Good luck!

[Jim Becker]

All air-dried woods still need some amount of kilning before putting into service.

I unfortunately can't agree with the idea that kiln drying is required. Wood will air-dry to local average MC with enough time. Kiln dried wood will also seek that average after a time, too. Most of the wood I use is air-dried and I've had zero issues with movement or other problems. That said, kiln drying can certainly speed up that last bit of moisture release as well as deal with insects, depending on the type of kiln used.

[Ron Blaise]

have been air-dried. And like others have said I have had 0 problems with it. The last batch I bought was Walnut & Cherry, stacked and dried outside. The walnut was 10 years old, the Cherry 2 years old. I let both season in my shop for a year, but only because it took me that long to use that part of my stack.

[Ian Abraham]

Air drying outside first is the best idea, under shelter but with good airflow through the stack. 3-12 months for 1" boards, depending on wood species / climate / season. It should dry down to 10-14% depending on where you live.

THEN your attic is a good option for a couple more months to finish the drying to inside moisture levels. (~8%)

Cheers

Ian

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I unfortunately can't agree with the idea that kiln drying is required.


He mentioned tonewoods. I think he builds very thin walled musical instruments (like violins guitars Ouds etc.,) and - - - - well - - - - the smallest wood movement will destroy an instrument ERGO a logical and reasonable preference for some kilning. Others prefer to have wood that is no less than 10 or so years old to maximize wood stability. It can be a real problem when working thin cross sections.

[Jim Becker]

Cliff, for Jack's work (which I didn't note when I first read his post) you're correct that he needs to shoot for absolute stability. I forgot he was an instrument maker. But for the OP...air-dried isn't going to hurt him!