Tablesaw blade alignment - does it matter?

[Jeff Cord]

How's that for a leading title?

My question is: I was ripping some maple last week and got some burning (probably not a big surprise with Maple).
However, it prompted me to measure my blade and rip-fence alignment.
My fence alignment is good.
However, I found that the blade is about .002" out of square but that the back of the blade is closer to the rip-fence than to the mitre-slot.
I know the .002 is a good measurement but is the fact that the blade heels toward the rip-fence causing problems?
thanks,
Jeff

[Jason Beam]

if it toed the other way, i'd say no ... but it's pinching between the blade and the fence - there's no way i'd say that was a safe thing - even if it's .0001

[Don Eddard]

When you say your fence alignment is good, do you mean it's aligned with the blade or the miter slot? If the fence is aligned with the miter slot, then I agree with Jason and you're pinching the wood as it's cut. Even if the pinch is slight, it's enough to cause burning, and more importantly, to cause kickback and other safety problems.

Since the miter slot is the only unmovable part in the equation,
I'd set both the blade and the fence to match the slot as exactly as I could.

[Tom Henderson2]

Jeff-

As you know 0.002 is not much distance -- less than the thickness of a piece of paper.

Before you accept that value as gospel, I'd suggest repeating the check after changing blades. Just a little grit or slight imperfection in the blade ro arbor could easily lead to a 0.002 error at the OD of the blade.

And if you haven't already, be sure to double-check that error using different spots on the blade.

You might even try the measurement before using the saw (when it is cold) vs after you have run for a while (when everything is warmed up).

Hope this helps. I don't pretend to be a table saw expert, but as Ronald Reagan would say, "Trust, but verify...."

-Tom H .
Ventura, CA

[Peter Pedisich]

Jeff,

If you use your miter slots for anything, the blade and fence must be aligned to it.

And to make these adjustments without raising one's blood pressure is my personal best reason to save up for a cabinet saw (or one where the trunions are attached to the cabinet)

I have a Bridgewood contractor saw and this adjustment is a chore at best.

Pete

[Gary Keedwell]

Jeff-

As you know 0.002 is not much distance -- less than the thickness of a piece of paper.

Before you accept that value as gospel, I'd suggest repeating the check after changing blades. Just a little grit or slight imperfection in the blade ro arbor could easily lead to a 0.002 error at the OD of the blade.

And if you haven't already, be sure to double-check that error using different spots on the blade.

You might even try the measurement before using the saw (when it is cold) vs after you have run for a while (when everything is warmed up).

Hope this helps. I don't pretend to be a table saw expert, but as Ronald Reagan would say, "Trust, but verify...."

-Tom H .
Ventura, CA
I agree with Tom, and not because I admire Ronald Reagon.;) ( I do) .002 is not very much. I would check again. If every thing else is lined up good, the clearance of the blade itself would cover .002. IMNSHO
Gary K.

[Jeff Cord]

First, fence is aligned to the blade and the end of the blade is slightly further away from the blade than the front of the blade.

Second, I did the measurements with a cold saw and did change the blade positions (remounted so the blade to the arbor in different positions) to eliminate any blade variables. (I was also measuring the blade runout at the same time and with the WWII blade it is very small).

Third, I do use the mitre slot for crosscutting as well as the rip fence for ripping.

I guess my real question is: should I adjust my blade (to the mitre slot) so that any misalignment cases the back of the blade to be further from the rip fence to minimize burning?

Jeff
Simi Valley, CA

[Tom Veatch]

...I guess my real question is: should I adjust my blade (to the mitre slot) so that any misalignment cases the back of the blade to be further from the rip fence to minimize burning?

If you absolutely, positively, must have misalignment, then that's the way it should be. And yes, you will have some misalignment, if not today then certainly tomorrow. Nothing is perfect especially below your measurement limits.

[Dave Morris]

Jeff, when you check the blade for alignment again, make sure you take the blade off and double-check that both the blade and arbor are clean. It doesn't take much dirt, grit, wood debris to cause a slight misalignment. Had that happen to me once, drove me crazy until I figured out my hand knocked some sawdust off the lip that supports the table insert. Yup, landed right on the arbor. I was in a hurry putting the blade back on and more worried about the carbide teeth hitting the table's cast iron, so my eyes were not watching the arbor, and, well, you get the picture...

[John Lucas]

Alignment is important but are you using a good rip blade with 24 teeth or so. A lot of woodworkers (me once) use a great Forrest blade and while they are great, when ripping maple or other real hard wood, use a rip blade.
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/ss-p3-38a.jpg

[George Summers]

I may have missed it with these old eyes (trifocals) and this old mind, but I have seen nowhere in this thread the proper sequence of alignment spelled out. First you align the blade to the miter slot compensating (eleminating) any slop in the slot. This is done off of the same tooth to the front and then to the back side of the table. Then the fence is aligned to the same miter slot. One does not align the blade to the fence. You can check the blade/fence alignment after the fact but the adjustments are always to the same miter slot.

George

[Jeff Cord]

George, I was starting my alignment from the left-hand mitre slot.
Aligned the blade to that slot, then the rip-fence to that slot.
My biggest question was the direction of the error and none of the books I have or web-sites I read stated that any error should cause the back of the blade to angle towards or away from the rip-fence.
Logically I would think that it should angle away from the fence (to eliminate any pinching) but I am looking to confirm that.
Jeff

[George Summers]

Logically I would think that it should angle away from the fence (to eliminate any pinching) but I am looking to confirm that.
Jeff

Some people prefer that the fence and blade be perfectly in line, some purposely kick the rear of the fence out a tad to 'prevent pinching'. If I had a right tilt saw, I think I would make the blade and fence as exactly in line a possible so that when I move the fence to the left side of the blade I would not have to readjust it (Beis style T-Square fence). I do have a left tilt blade so I very very seldom (I can't remember the last time) move the fence to the left of the blade and I do kick the rear of my fence out by a couple of thou. This is all a matter of personal preference.

George

[glenn bradley]

Perfect or toed away I have no problem with. I have concerns for you receiving more than just burning with it toed in. As you know .002 is very small; just not in the optimal direction as stated. I'm a 'straight as possible' type-guy with the blade and fence referencing the slot. If I just can't get any closer, I'll opt for a poorer number toed out than a better number toed in. My opinion is worth just what you paid for it ;-)

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

if it toed the other way, i'd say no ... but it's pinching between the blade and the fence - there's no way i'd say that was a safe thing - even if it's .0001

What that guy said.