Power Sanding

[Wayne Bitting]

A question for all you power sanding guys… I have a few bucks coming my way and I would like to add power sanding to my line of rarely-have-time-to-use turning tools. I’ve searched the forum and it seemed that the Grex ROS was the cream of the crop, but is it worth it for the occasional use? I was looking at just a HF right angle die grinder and it was only $20, of course is not a ROS but will it do? It needs 4 CFM and I was hoping to use just my pancake compressor (hate to lug out the big one), which is only 2.4CFM, can I just use the sander in short bursts and have it work okay? The Grex is around 2.2CFM so it would work on my little compressor, but hate to spend the money if its not going to see much use. And to tie into the Wood Works show thread, I thought I saw him just use a simple right angle die grinder for his sanding. Would a drill be sufficient instead of air power (too heavy)? Thanks for your help!

[Patrick Taylor]

I use the Souix right-angle drill from Craft Supplies USA and it's fantastic. I don't have experience with air-powered tools.

[George Van]

Wayne, I use an angle electric drill for sanding, variable speed. I have a Milwaukee which was expensive and a Harbor Freight which was cheap. I got more life out of “cheap”. My Harbor Freight for $19.95 lasted 2 years, just ordered a new one as I look at these as disposables, my Milwaukee less than a year before bearing problems which is a problem with these tools.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92956

[Wayne Bitting]

George - I would have never thought of that type of drill. I like it. Do you hold it "free hand" or do you try and rest it on the tool rest to stabilized it?

[George Van]

Wayne, I use it both ways. I was told that the Powerlock disks work great on the toolrest, best possibly with a flex drive, I use them that way. The flex sanding pads in 2" & 3" I use freehand, locking my elbows and using my body like you would with a gouge. I use a slow revolving speed and medium drill speed. If you use either of these drills, blow them out with air occasionally as they are being used in an extra dusty environment sanding as compared to the drilling process.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Wayne - have tried different methods - Sorby, cordless drill, etc. Right now I am using a cheap electric Black & Decker 3/8" variable speed drill that I picked up at the local Menards for around $29. Like George, I consider it a throwaway and is a lot cheaper than replacing rechargeable batteries.

[Bill Grumbine]

Wayne, I have been using a drill named Sioux along with a Grex. The Sioux has been in service for about five years now, the Grex for two or so. The drill does a great job for initial sanding, stock removal, etc. The Grex will not do that. However, the Grex excels in finish work, and I reserve it for the last grit. I sand with the drill up to a certain grit, and then use that same grit with the Grex.

I used to have a 27 gal "5HP" compressor that put out something like 4.9 cfm at 90 psi. It did not keep up with the Grex. It would go fine for a while, then start to run, then the sander would slow down, and then I would stop and wait. I had opportunity to replace it with a real 5 HP Ingersoll Rand 80 gal monster, and that keeps up with it just fine. :D But I don't think your pancake is going to keep the Grex or you happy with its supply of air.

That doesn't mean that you shouldn't buy a Grex, just that you are not going to get optimal performance from it with a pancake, or even a lot of homeowner sized compressors. You can get satisfactory performance as long as you have the proper expectations of the tool combination. I used the Grex for a long time with my small compressor. It was worth the time spent waiting for the compressor to catch up to get a better finish faster than I could do off the lathe by hand or on the lathe with finer grits.

I hope this helps you out some.

Bill

[Bernie Weishapl]

Wayne the LOML got me a C-man angle drill for Fathers day when I first started turning and it works just fine.

[Mark Cothren]

I use a Milwaukee and also a cheaper model. I keep a 2" pad on one and a 3" on the other. I haven't tried the Grex yet, but would like to someday. I have a compressor that can keep up with it.

George, the problem bearing in those Milwaukee's can be replaced with a quality bearing for just a couple of bucks. I changed mine out, after advisement from others who had trouble with those stock bearings, and I've been using it for over a year now with no problems at all.

[Reed Gray]

I have several of the Sioux/Milwaukee angle drills (they are not a 90 degree angle drill, more like 110 degrees). I prefer them for easiest to get into most of the bowls I do. I do go through a set of bearings in about 6 months, but now have a set of 'air craft quality' bearings in them, and after almost 6 months, no slowing down. I use 3 inch discs almost exclusivly. I also have a Sioux pneumatic drill. It didn't last as long as the electric ones, and the compressor would run non stop while in use. This was okay in the winter as it helped warm the shop, but not so good in the summer. I bought one of the S/M clones ($29.95) and got about a month out of it. Any power drill is faster than hand sanding, and faster than the inertial sanders. You can also stop the lathe and work on problem spots, which you can't do as easily any other way. As a production turner, I have to have this tool. If time isn't a concern, then anything else will do. Do check out www.VincesWoodNWonders.com for his discs, and his comments about power sanding. His discs are the best around, and I have tried just about everything out there.
robo hippy

[George Van]

Mark, I had my Milwaukee repaired under warranty, (they sent another rebuilt) and did not use as I was planning to install new bearings I purchased from Enco. Terry Daniel and others had talked about replacement and I was inclined to think it was a long drawn out job so it went on the back burner. When I was scribing the cherry paneling to the fireplace I though a burr in the drill would be faster than the coping saw so I used the Milwaukee, it lasted about an hour and is now back at the service center. I do hope it comes back repaired! Did it take you a long time to replace the bearings and then get it back together.

[George Van]

Reed, those sound like some good bearings. Would you tell me where you purchased them?

[Mark Cothren]

George, I got my bearings from Enco as well. I'm not what you would call real "mechanically inclined" :o so it probably took me longer than it would others. I think I spent about an hour on it altogether. If/when I do it again, now that I've done it, I think it wouldn't take but maybe 15-20 minutes???

[Wayne Bitting]

Thanks for the advise guys. I think for now I'll try the cheapo HF drill to see if power sanding works for me, then upgrade later in life. I would love the Grex, but it would be a problem with air supply. Now on to sand paper and pad selection...

[George Van]

Well Mark, maybe I can do it in two hours, still better than I expected!:D I will do it before I use the drill so I do not melt the case when the bearings seize.

[Paul Zerjay]

I agree totally with robo hippy. Vince's prices are right, and the best product on the market that I have found. Also Vince is a heck of a nice guy!

[James Upshaw]

I use the Souix right-angle drill from Craft Supplies USA and it's fantastic. I don't have experience with air-powered tools.


Me too. That sander does a great job.