Cherry crotch veneer?

[Rob Will]

Today I ran across a big downed cherry tree with a solid symetrical crotch. Does cherry have a "feather crotch" pattern much in the same way that walnut does?

I suppose that the cutting procedure would be the same as cutting a walnut crotch (?) Unless somebody says otherwise, I'll probably cut out a 1" center board in an atempt to exclude all of the pith. From that point, I suppose that the remainder will be cut 5/4 (?).

Not sure exactly what I'll do with it. Obviously it would either be used for veneer or some sort of face board.

Thanks for your suggestions,

Rob

[Jim Becker]

Yes, it can have the feather pattern...check out my recent vanity project. That said, I recently had a conversation with Rick Hearne (of Hearne Hardwoods) relative to cherry crotch...it's tough to work with as it tends to get unstable. While I used re-sawn solid stock for those two doors on the first vanity, I'm going with some feather-pattern veneer for the next two as I couldn't find more than one acceptable board that wasn't cracked in an inconvenient way in all of the buildings at Hearne. (Yes, I did buy that piece, however!)

The cutting process would be very much the same as with walnut...but walnut is super stable. The cherry will be a bear to keep "nice" while it dries. It can be done, but I got the impression that luck has a lot to do with it from my chat with Rick.

[Rob Will]

cherry crotch...it's tough to work with as it tends to get unstable.

I'm wondering if figured cherry would be more stable if the drying process was very slow and controlled(?). For example, what would happen if immediately after cutting, I apply a thin coat of end sealer to the ENTIRE board? Some have said that figured wood dries very unevenly due to exposed end grain.

Rob

[Greg Cole]

I've seen some cherry crotch on the Hearne internet store very recently and as much as I dislike "the big auction site" there's been some cherry crotch veneer on there recently too.....

$0.02....

Greg

[thomas prevost]

As Jim states they often check. When we cut them, we immediately get them out of the sun, sticker them in a cool place(not damp!!) for a few months and then to the kiln. Cut as many at 5/4 as you can. they tend to cup and can surface check. the additional thickness gives room for lots of planing. They tearout very easily thus, it might be helpfull to get it close with a planer and finish up with either a hand belt or drum sander.