Question on turning a tall HF.

[Bill Wyko]

When I try my first tall HF, is there anything I should know about before I plung deep into a log? I have a big Mesquite log about 12"s in diameter and 8 feet long. I was hoping to use a section of this to make a tall HF. I'll be using my Clark Hollowing system for the first or second time for this project. I'm assuming end grain is the only way to get large enough for a project like this. Maby 16"s tall.

[Robert McGowen]

Maby 16"s tall.

I was thinking that with a 2000 piece segmented project in the works, that you were probably thinking about making a hollow form 8 feet long now! :eek:
What does the "42" in Jet 1442 mean? :) It doesn't mean 16" does it? :D

[Jim Becker]

You'll need a steady for something that is "extra tall"...both to keep it absolutely centered as well as to absorb some of the stresses that hollowing will add. Remember, you have a lever there that is greatly increasing the stress on your tenon, especially when initially hollowing way out on the end.

[Bill Wyko]

I also have the Clark steady. When I start hollowing do I go to the bottom and work my way out or do I start at the top and work my way in? I'm just planning my next project after the big one. I'll have pics of the "Big One's" progress tomorrow too. That one will be the first one I use the clark system on but segmenting gives you a big head start on hollowing a piece because you're already about 3/4 done inside.:p :)

[Keith Burns]

Bill, start at the top and work in steps toward the bottom. In all honesty if I were you I would start with a smaller HF to become familiar with the tools, etc. Turning a solid piece of wood has a totally different feel than turning segmented pieces.

[joe greiner]

Tool control can be iffy near the center, especially as you get deeper and have a longer cantilever from the toolrest. Popular wisdom is to predrill to near the bottom (try not to make a funnel). A long auger bit is probably the best tool for this. There are conflicting opinions about grinding off the threads at the point. In some woods, the threads just fill up with wood dust. I don't know how mesquite behaves. Do a test drill into end grain, e.g. with a hand-held power drill, to indicate whether you need to grind off the threads. (Still leave a cone at the root of the threads.)

After predrilling, like Keith said, work from the top down. You'll probably find it convenient to remove the tailstock, for more freedom in tool placement.

Joe