kitchen drawer joints in baltic birch

[Chris Friesen]

I'm trying to figure out what joints make the most sense for kitchen drawers in 1/2" BB. The drawers will be mounted on ball-bearing sliders. They will have full overlay false fronts out of oak. (I'm replacing existing particleboard drawers that are shot...)

My suspicion is that the worst stress will be from people shoving the drawers closed. (At least this is where the current drawers are failing.) With normal slide mounting all the force of the drawer closing is taken by the joint between the front and the sides. I was considering a lock rabbet joint (aka a rabbet/dado joint). Is this strong enough, or should I consider box joints or dovetails? What about running the sides full-length and using (gasp) biscuits?

Another thought I had was to mount the slides just slightly forward so that the shock of the drawer closing was actually taken up by the slides themselves, and the drawer front never quite touched the face frame. Anyone ever tried this?

[Greg Cole]

Hi Chris,
I haven't heard the word Domino lately.... so why not start trouble and say you NEED to go buy one for these drawer boxes! :D
DT's would work, but not the optimal material for DT's. Ditto for box joints.
I would get a drawer lock bit and go with that route or a rabbet-glue n brad combo.
I would think trying to use the slide as a stop would be a little bit of a game in frustration when it comes time to installing the slides. Maybe not... ?

$0.02 donation....
Greg

[Peter Pedisich]

Chris,

I just completed 2 file drawers made of 12mm Multiply (1/2" BB) using my pocket hole jig and glue. The feel strong, but someone with more experience can tell you if they are strong enough for a kitchen.

I have combined biscuits and pocket holes in the past alternating them and it helps keep the parts from shifting when you drive the screw in, but it's time consuming.

Good Luck,

Pete

[Jim Becker]

Pocket screws and glue would be my choice if working with BB ply for the drawers. The screws get hidden by the false fronts and you get a very clean look. Since this is all ply and glued...very strong.

[Mark Engel]

I have been using a glued lock rabbet joint on the kitchen drawers I have been building. I have also used this joint on many other drawers and pull out trays, etc. They seem to be plenty strong and hols up well to daily abuse. The oldest of the drawers I have built this way are over 10 years old with no signs of loosening up.

I attached the full overlay drawer fronts to the front of the drawer with just a couple of 1" wood screws. I put a couple of bumpers on the bottom corners of the drawer fronts. When the drawer closes, the bumpers on the drawer fronts touch against the face frames. If the drawer gets slammed shut, it will generally just bounce out a little then close.

[Jerry Strojny]

When I redid my kitchen cabinets 3 years ago with 1/2" BB I chose the locking rabbit joint. They've been holding up great.

Jerry

[David Eisan]

Hello there,

Take a look at this thread,

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=45877&highlight=drawer

I like lock rebate joints.

Thanks,

David.

[Bob Aquino]

I have made drawers with half inch BB using blind dovetails. It machines reasonably well and the dovetails on the side look nice enough. If you have a dovetail jig, its a pretty simple run once its all set up.

[David DeCristoforo]

Having made about a million of these things (plywood kitchen cabinet drawers) I can, with confidence, recommend a simple rabbet and groove joint. It's fast, simple and solid. I have never had one fail. With the drawer hung on modern ball bearing glides, whether side mounted or under mounted, there is very little strain on the joints. To my way of thinking, anything beyond this is "overkill" for plywood boxes.

[Terry Hatfield]

I have done a ton of BB ply drawers and as long as you take a scoring cut across the face of the material to reduce tearout before actually routing the dovetails, I have had no issue. I just can't imagine a drawer without dovetails but that's just me.

t

[Jon Dieterlen]

I have been using baltic birch for drawer bixes in production furniture for 20+ years. I use a single #0 biscuit in each corner and a couple of 1 1/4" staples placed where the biscuits aren't. I have never had a single joint failure complaint. I now do mostly custom cabinetry and furniture, and use solid maple w/dove tail drawer boxes most of the time. I think, however, the next job that I use baltic birch boxes, I will edgeband the top and use pocket screws. This box will far exceed the strength requirements and look better than ugly staples in the corners.

Just my humble opinion
Jon