Beaded T&G panels for cab doors--couple questions

[Jameel Abraham]

So I need to make a few of these.

I was thinking I don't want the strips to rattle or the beaded joints to open up, so I should glue the strips that make up the panel together, then let the whole thing float.

To get the necessary thickness for the bead and the t&g, and still get the panel to fit into my 1/4" cope and stick groove, I'll need to make the panels at least 1/2" thick and then cut a rabbet on the back side.

Is this the slickest way to do this?

I could have sworn there was a FWW article about this, but I just can't find it..

[Terry Hatfield]

Jameel,

What you propose should work fine but have you considered making the panels from beadboard plywood? It would fit into the 1/4" groove and cut down on alot of work.

Just a thought,

t

[Jim Becker]

Similar to Terry's suggestion, you can do your own beading on a solid panel so that you can get the proportions and design exactly the way you want. This can be done with a guided router with a "plunge" type profile cutter or with molding head in the table saw, such as the Magic Molder. (My cabinetmaker neighbor does a lot of these panels using the latter) "Rolling your own" means the species and profile match what you want and if you glue up a panel, you can space the joints such that they match your beading work.

[Jameel Abraham]

Thanks fellas. Well, I ended up making my own beaded t&g panels from separate boards. Yeah, Jim, the spacing dictated such. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

It's been a while since I worked with pine. Man, talk about easy planing. My planes were singing on this wood. I also dinged up a couple corners. Pine does not forgive!