Signing work before or after buffing?

[Patrick Taylor]

I know this has come up before, but I have a specific question that I don't think has been answered... I use archival pens to sign work. If I buff it, it takes off the pen, so in that case I oil, cure, buff, then sign. That works great with no wax.

With wax... If I sign before the wax (applied with the buffing wheel) then the wax wheel takes off the pen (or part at least) but if I sign after I wax I can wipe off some of the ink.

If you're buffing and waxing, how and when do you sign?

Thanks,
pat

[Steve Schlumpf]

Patrick - I apply the pen right on bare wood after final sanding and before any finish. I use a gel pen and my process works fine for me.

[Stan Cook]

I use my laser to apply my signature:D

[Dennis Peacock]

Get you a Dremel Engraver pen. Plug it up and start writing on the bottom of your bowls. Mark Cothren and others do this and this little electric pen will be my next purchase for signing work. :D

[Terry Quiram]

If I wood burn my name I do it on bare wood. If I use a pen I apply one coat of finish, sign and then apply the remainder coats.

[Lee DeRaud]

I use my laser to apply my signature:DYup, me too. And FYI, it's buff-and-wax first, otherwise I have to dig the wax out of the engraved signature. (D'oh!!)
Also, I get better contrast that way...I think the laser turns the wax black.

[Patrick Taylor]

Patrick - I apply the pen right on bare wood after final sanding and before any finish. I use a gel pen and my process works fine for me.

Steve, do you buff afterwards or use wipe-on finishes, or both?

[Steve Schlumpf]

Patrick - on most things - I sign the work, then apply a couple coats of oil finish (Watco or Minwax), then buff everything out once the oil has dried - usually 3 days for me. If I want it real glossy I'll apply numerous coats of Minwax wipe-on gloss poly over the dried oil - then buff. Hope that helps.

[Jim Shaver, Oakville Ont]

I always use my work for signing after my final buff!!:D

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

I sign mine AFTER with an Archival Pen.

Bruce

[Andy Hoyt]

I usually laserize (http://www.mainewoodturners.org/may_07_st_10.jpg)mine

[Lee DeRaud]

I usually laserize (http://www.mainewoodturners.org/may_07_st_10.jpg)mineAh, I see you paid extra for the "dual-beam" option...
where does the USB cable from the computer plug in?

[Bernie Weishapl]

I either sign it or burn it. Just started burning.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I usually laserize (http://www.mainewoodturners.org/may_07_st_10.jpg)mine

That guy looks like he's having a Moxie hangover...........:D

[Chris Barton]

I agree with Bruce, I sign afterward with an archival pen.

[Ken Milhinch]

I am new to this turning business, so pardon what may be a silly question. Why would you want to sign something you made ? Is this something you plan to sell ? I don't get it.:confused:

[Kurt Whitley]

I am new to this turning business, so pardon what may be a silly question. Why would you want to sign something you made ? Is this something you plan to sell ? I don't get it.:confused:

It's so your friends and relatives will know not to throw it away!
:):)

Cheers,
Kurt

[Ed Scolforo]

Glenn Hodges recommended to me to use an archival pen right on the freshly sanded wood before any finish is applied. I have been using his method for awhile and have had nothing but good results.
Ed

[Dennis Peacock]

Hey....one technique that I learned while it Philly about signing your work? Just break out your best can of KRYLON Paint and Let'R-Rip. :)

[Patrick Taylor]

Glenn Hodges recommended to me to use an archival pen right on the freshly sanded wood before any finish is applied. I have been using his method for awhile and have had nothing but good results.
Ed

Even if you're going to buff afterwards?