Grizzly G0490 8" Jointer Alignment Problem

[Mark Ketelsen]

I just assembled my new G0490, which went smoothly. However, in checking the alignment of the tables, I find that the out-feed table is aligned correctly with the cutter head and the knives are perfectly set, but the in-feed table leans toward the rear relative to the out-feed table. This is apparent when the fence is set 90 degrees to the out-feed table – the fence is then out of square by .007” top to bottom relative to the in-feed table. So I need to adjust the eccentric bushings under the in-feed table.

Has anyone had a similar problem? How difficult is it to do this adjustment? Do I need to pop big $$ for a 3’ precision straight edge to insure that when I’m done, the in-feed table is still in line with the out-feed table lengthwise?

Another question I have is: what have other owners of this machine done if anything to prevent the fence from scratching the out-feed table where it bears metal-to-metal?

Thanks for your help!

Mark

[Jim Becker]

Bump...............

[Mark Rios]

I've got a G0593.

No info on the first question.

On question number two, my outfeed table also has light scratches from the fence. I just leave it and don't worry about it. It doesn't affect what I do on the jointer.

Now, if my Biese fence was scratching my TS top:mad: .....................:D

[Rick Lizek]

I'm suspect on your method of coming to your conclusion. Could be a warped fence from your description. You will need a straight edge 2/3's the overall length of your jointer should you need to make this adjustment. You can remove the fence and lay it on the jointer table and check with a feeler gauge.

[Randy Klein]

The fence on my jointer has a plastic insert near the knives that elevates it above the out feed table. So there is no metal-on-metal.

[Mark Ketelsen]

Rick,

Thanks for the reply.

I checked the fence before assembly and it's dead flat using master bars which are better than .001" accuracy. Also, the .007" discrepency in sqareness between each of the two tables and the fence appears abruptly on each side of the cutter - i.e. with measurements just a few inches apart. So it has to be the that the tables are not aligned.

[Chris Friesen]

...So I need to adjust the eccentric bushings under the in-feed table.

Has anyone had a similar problem? How difficult is it to do this adjustment? Do I need to pop big $$ for a 3’ precision straight edge to insure that when I’m done, the in-feed table is still in line with the out-feed table lengthwise?


From other comments you can get the instructions from Delta. There used to be a site with the instructions but it seems to be gone now. The technique involves putting the straightedge along the bed at the front and back, and then diagonally each way (four placements total).

As for the straight edge, yes you need one. LV has aluminum ones (.003" accurate). The 38" is $38.50, while the 50" one is $66.50. If you need .001 accuracy, the 36" steel one is $62.50.

[Rick Lizek]

You will need at least a 4' straight edge. Crain floor installing supplies has reasonably priced straight edges. 2/3's the length of the overall table length is the rule of thumb. I've been doing this professionaly for 25 years. If it's anything like the Delta DJ20 it might have double setscrews on the cams. If it does, you completely remove the top screw and loosen the bottom one. When you adjust one corner up the opposite corner will go down so it takes a bit of time to get it adjusted.

[Bruce Benjamin]

What has Grizzly said about this? People seem to rave about the customer service Grizzly provides, (I've had a different experience) so you should call them and see if they can/will help you. Papa Griz should be stepping up and offering some advice on this one. I don't think realigning your new jointer tables is something that's to be expected upon assembly.

With the difference being right before and after the cutter head, it seems unlikely that it's your fence that's twisted. If you have the Beall Tilt Box, or the Wixey Angle Gauge you should be able to set on on the outfeed table, zero it, then set it on the infeed table and see a difference. The gauge would be set perpendicular to the fence.

Bruce

[Rick Lizek]

What has Grizzly said about this? People seem to rave about the customer service Grizzly provides, (I've had a different experience) so you should call them and see if they can/will help you. Papa Griz should be stepping up and offering some advice on this one. I don't think realigning your new jointer tables is something that's to be expected upon assembly.

With the difference being right before and after the cutter head, it seems unlikely that it's your fence that's twisted. If you have the Beall Tilt Box, or the Wixey Angle Gauge you should be able to set on on the outfeed table, zero it, then set it on the infeed table and see a difference. The gauge would be set perpendicular to the fence.

Bruce
It's certainly possible to have jointer tables off on a new jointer. When I was working on Delta machinery and considering the amount of machines sold it's not realistic to expect every machine to be perfect.

[Jerry White]

Mark,

Here is a link to a procedure for alignment of the Delta DJ-20, which should also apply to the Grizzly 0490. I used this to align my DJ-20 when it was new and found it to be very well written and straightforward. This is courtesy of Mark Goodall's excellent website.

http://www.woodworkergallery.com/happywoodworking/DJ20adjustments.html

Good luck,

Jerry

[glenn bradley]

Rick,

Thanks for the reply.

I checked the fence before assembly and it's dead flat using master bars which are better than .001" accuracy. Also, the .007" discrepancy in sqareness between each of the two tables and the fence appears abruptly on each side of the cutter - i.e. with measurements just a few inches apart. So it has to be the that the tables are not aligned.

Just trying to get the picture here; so does the amount of deviation increase as you move away from the cutter head or is the table .007" out along its length? Also, I would email Griz and ask what their tolerances are. If it is out of spec, they should assist.

[Jeff Cord]

Mark, I had a similar concern to yours.
However, mine was with the flatness of the tables, not the fence.
I was measuring with feeler gauges and a LV aluminum straight-edge (36").
Based on my first measurements I was convinced that my tables had "waves" in them up to .005".
When I posted questions here the first issue was the accuracy of my straight-edge: how accurate was it?
I was able to get my hands on a Starrett 36" straight-edge and, based on that, I found the tables are flat to within .001".
I then went through the alignment process described in the manual (similar to the one lined above). This took a couple of hours because each adjustment I made forced me to recheck the previous measurements.
Once I was done, though, the beds were right-on.
I would recommend that you use a good straight-edge to ensure the beds are aligned before you question the fence (as I questioned my beds before I had a good straight-edge).
Good luck,
Jeff

[Allen Bookout]

Mark,

I might be a bit late but I did have the same problem that you are having. Adjustment of the infeed table did the trick and it was not difficult. The Grizzly instructions are very good except that they did not mention the size of allen wrench that you need which is 2.5mm and was not included with my machine but I already had one. The guys are correct that said that there might be two setscrews. Completely remove the first one and loosen the second one. The cams are a little tough to move but a punch and hammer will do the job.

[Jake Helmboldt]

Mark, a 4' piece of aluminum barstock can be had for several dollars and is an adequate straightedge for woodworking (some will disagree). Pick up two pieces in the store, hold them edge-to-edge and look for light and you should be able to find one that is very straight (less than .001). For what you need to accomplish it will be more than straight enough.

As for metal on metal, I keep meaning to pick up a small roll of the UHMW plastic that is adhesive backed to put on the underside of the fence where it slides across the table. I've heard others say they did that w/ good results. Sorry I can't help w/ the alignment issues.