Selecting finish for cherry bed

[Landon Satterly]

Hello all. I am entering the process of finishing our new bed my wife and I had built. I have searched around the site to see what is the best finish for our needs. Considering the fact that we want a natural appearance to darken over time (NO stain) and for it to actually feel and look like real wood (satin finish, no gloss) it seems that BLO is the ticket. We don't want a yellowish appearance, so I am afraid to try a shellac over the BLO. We have a dachshund, so a very durable top coat would be ideal. I am looking for the solution for a natural, simple finish that will last.

and could you specify what the 'borg is?

Thanks in advance!

[Dave Sinkus]

Landon,
I like the bed frame and headboard a lot. I do not have the answer to your question, but I will be working on a cherry project and have the same requirements, except for the dachsund.

Also, I see 'BLO' referenced a lot, but don't know what the TLA (three Letter Acronym) stands for. I'm guessing something something Oil B____ L____ Oil. What is BLO?

Thanks for the help

[Nancy Laird]

Landon, first, welcome to the Creek!!!

Finish: lacquer, lacquer, lacquer. Spray with a coat of sanding sealer, quick go-over with 400 grit, then three coats of sprayed lacquer. You can get satin-finish lacquer. There are several advantages to lacquer--first, if it gets scratched, you just rough it up a little with steel wool and spritz it with a rattle can of the same lacquer. You'll never know where the scratch was. Second, your grain and color of the cherry will remain--and will age and darken naturally without any "outside" help.

A 'borg" is a "big ol' retail giant" - sometimes known as Lowe's, Home Depot, Menard's, etc. (started as "big orange", but has morphed into meaning any of the big-box stores).

Nancy

[Nancy Laird]

Also, I see 'BLO' referenced a lot, but don't know what the TLA (three Letter Acronym) stands for. I'm guessing something something Oil B____ L____ Oil. What is BLO?

Thanks for the help

BLO is Boiled Linseed Oil.

There's a list of acronyms here on the Creek - http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=56320&highlight=acronyms
Nancy

[Dave Sinkus]

I see you also translated BORG.

[Landon Satterly]

What kind/brand of lacquer specifically is the best, from personal experience. I have used Minwax in the past and was wondering if a wipe on poly would be good. I have read on the boards here enough to know that Minwax is not really a preferred brand though. Thanks!

[Nancy Laird]

We use Behlen's Qualalacq, and spray. Poly isn't repairable like lacquer is, so damage would have to be repaired by stripping a piece and completely refinishing it.

Here's a link to a source: http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=848-754

Don't know where you live (you can put it in your profile), so don't know if your state is on the "list" where it can't be shipped, but gallons NOT AVAILABLE in AZ, CA, DC, DE, KY, MA, MD, ME, NY, NJ, PA and VA, and none is available in California.

Nancy

[Landon Satterly]

It figures, I'm in KY. Thanks again! I can spray it, but are there any non-spray alternatives?

[Nancy Laird]

Let me check with LOML - he's pretty knowledgable about this stuff. But, I will say that lacquer is usually better and gives a better finish sprayed rather than brushed. DAMHIKT!! The quarts can be shipped to KY, just not the gallons. Depending on where you are in Kentucky, (if you're in the eastern part), it might be worth a drive to Graham, NC, to be able to purchase it directly at the WWS retail store there. (It's in that strip along I-40 through Burlington, etc., where all the outlet stores are.)

Nancy

[Dave Sinkus]

Thanks for the informationNancy. Thanks for asking the question Landon.

I am assuming the lacquer is applied after the BLO? Kewl

[Larry Fox]

I agree with Nancy about the lacquer being the best option for you in terms of topcoats but I might opt for a WB one like Target USL as it is water-clear. If you are sure you are going to use BLO you might be well served by putting down a coat of extra-pale dewaxed shellac if you do go with a WB topcoat. Another option for you might be Waterlox or Watco natural.

With cherry, you have to be aware that it might exhibit some "splotches" when you apply the oil. Some don't mind it but I try to avoid it if I can.

[Nancy Laird]

With this lacquer, you don't really need anything else, although on our oak furniture we do use a natural stain to pop the grain, and you might want to do the same with the cherry. Moser's Natural is oil-based and we regularly use that, then the sanding sealer, then lacquer. Again, that can't be shipped in gallons to Kentucky:( , but I'm guessing that Moser's is available at places other than WWS.

Nancy

[Jim Becker]

I prefer to use BLO on cherry as a first step, followed by de-waxed garnet shellac, followed by my top-coat, which is usually Target Coatings USL. I'm about to try a new product of theirs that is a hybrid alkyd water borne finish that really is great on cherry, however. While you can brush all of these products, most folks prefer to spray water borne or lacquer because they set up so quickly.

[Craig Kershaw]

I am using a the Waterlox high gloss finish on a cherry bar am I making. It wipes on with a cloth, no brushes to clean. Its also available in semi gloss. Fumes are minimal unlike with laquer. It does however require about 5 thins coats to get a real nice finish. Prior to using Waterlox I used the Minwax ploy, I'll never go back.

[Joe Chritz]

Like Craig mentioned. Waterlox is my finish for 90% of the projects I don't spray. I spray about 90% of the projects but the depth and look of waterlox is fantastic and would look great on cherry.

You could most likely skip the BLO as the waterlox is solvent based and pops the grain very well.

For a spray coat (which would be my first choice on a large project) I use Target USL satin.

Joe

[Landon Satterly]

Thanks for the replies everyone. This helps to guide me in the right direction. I will be sure to post pictures when everything is finished.

[Matt P]

I am using a the Waterlox high gloss finish on a cherry bar am I making. It wipes on with a cloth, no brushes to clean. Its also available in semi gloss. Fumes are minimal unlike with laquer. It does however require about 5 thins coats to get a real nice finish. Prior to using Waterlox I used the Minwax ploy, I'll never go back.

Craig, does the Waterlox look better than the MinWax Poly? Maybe I'll switch like you did..

Matt

[Dino Drosas]

I too would recommend the Waterlox. I am in the process of finishing a Maloof style rocker and am using the original formula in the red label can. It is used as sealer and finish and leaves a satin sheen as well as a slight amber tint. Wipe it on with a rag and give it 4 or 5 coats then wax. Very easy (almost fool proof) and it sounds like what you are looking for

[Steve Schoene]

but I'm guessing that Moser's is available at places other than WWS.

Nancy

I'm pretty sure the Moser's is the house label for WWS finishing products.

[Steve Schoene]

I'm not Craig, but to me the Waterlox definately looks better than the Minwax, at least after you get a fair number of coats on. It is also better handling in a subtle sense. (I'm thinking particularly of the Original/Sealer--the Waterlox core product comes in three flavors Satin, Original/Sealer, and Gloss. The Original/Sealer works perfectly well as a top coat, and has a mellow gloss that I find attractive, without a hint of "plastic" sense.

[Joe Chritz]

Craig, does the Waterlox look better than the MinWax Poly? Maybe I'll switch like you did..

Matt

In my opinion, FWIW they are not even in the same category. It is more costly but well worth it.

Joe

[Don Bullock]

We use Behlen's Qualalacq, and spray. ...Here's a link to a source: http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=848-754

... and none is available in California.

Nancy

I just discovered the "none is available in California" today.:( I'm finishing a cherry table and found out that the only way I can buy laquer in California is in a spray can.:eek: It seems to me that spray cans are even worse that quarts, etc. Yes, Ive reverted to using spray cans.:mad: I guess on my next cherry table (now being designed - bought the curly cherry yesterday) I'll have to try shellac or perhaps something else.:confused:

[Sam Shank]

I just discovered the "none is available in California" today.:( I'm finishing a cherry table and found out that the only way I can buy laquer in California is in a spray can.:eek: It seems to me that spray cans are even worse that quarts, etc. Yes, Ive reverted to using spray cans.:mad: I guess on my next cherry table (now being designed - bought the curly cherry yesterday) I'll have to try shellac or perhaps something else.:confused:

Why can't you mail order it? I know the PRC is wacky about solvents &c, but you should be able to mail order it from someplace.

[Nancy Laird]

Why can't you mail order it? I know the PRC is wacky about solvents &c, but you should be able to mail order it from someplace.

These products, when they are shipped, MUST BE LABELLED as hazardous, etc. The US Mail and other carriers can not ship them to California (and other states that have banned them). There are ways to get around the ban, but I'm not going there.

Nancy

[Tim Sproul]

I am looking for the solution for a natural, simple finish that will last.


If you want nitrocellulose lacquer, I'd see if Jeff Jewitt can ship it to you. I don't use it but have received plenty of packages marked as hazardous material...they generally have to be shipped ground. I'd gather that shipping to commercial versus residential might have different rules. I also think that Woodcraft sells solvent lacquer and I'd think that many commercial cabinet and furniture makers still use solvent lacquer here in Cali.

I like to spray and don't have enough space for a dedicated spray booth....hence I use waterborne lacquer. That is another option. Again, Jeff Jewitt is a great resource - call and talk with him about your situation.

I'm not sure why you're worried about the dog. Do they chew furniture? I can't imagine dog claws being an issue with a bed frame. At any rate, no topcoat is going to be impervious to the goings-on from a dog. For a bedframe, I don't think physical protection is a huge concern. BLO and wax are all I'd do.

[Steven Wilson]

Well, I would apply of mixture of Tung Oil, BLO, and Turpentine in the ratio of 1:1:2 as a first coat (it's a bit lighter than just using BLO) and then finish with shellac, probably starting with a Kusmi shellac (redish brown, lighter than Garnet) and then finishing with a lemmon shellac (a bit lighter than orange). A dog will mangle any finish and a bed is not a high wear item. I prefer the shellac as it is very, very easy to repair by hand, without spray equipment, if it ever needs it. If going with a shellac finish (not shellac as a sealer) then I would go with a waxed shellac. Once you get a good build of shellac it will be fairly glossy but that is easily knocked down when you rub out the finish, or you can add shellac flat (see Jeff Jewitt). Shellac also takes transtint dyes very well if there are some areas that you would like to even out the tone on.