Gramercy Rasps vs. Auriou

[Robert Rozaieski]

I've had the Woodworker's File Set from Woodcraft for about 6 years now (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=280) and these rasps seem to gouge and scratch like a cornered leopard more than they shape. I have found them hard to work with and they require a lot of sanding, scraping, and other forms of smoothery after using them. So much so that I'm to the point of trying to avoid their use at all costs.

Because of this, I would like to get a few quality hand cut rasps to replace them. I am considering the Gramercy set ($165 from Joel) as they are substantially cheaper than three similar Auriou rasps. I know Auriou rasps have gotten nothing but praise from those who have used them, however, I've not heard much about the Gramercy rasps (outside of the PWW Tool Test a few months ago).

Has anyone had any experience with the Gramercy rasps that they would be kind enough to share?

Joel, I know you tend to visit the forum on occasion, and even though you have a financial interest here, I'd still be interested to hear your opinion as well since you sell both the Gramercy and Auriou and I'm assuming you've had a chance to use both tools.

Thanks!
Bob

[Mike Henderson]

Have you tried the Nicholson #49 and 50 rasps? These are "machine random" rasps, probably not as random as a hand made rasp but still not bad.

But a rasp will leave significant marks on the wood. They are designed for rapid shaping of wood and not for finishing. I have some smoother rasps and files that I will use after the 49 and 50, but it still requires significant sanding to get the wood smooth. I doubt if a hand made rasp will do much better.

Mike

[Robert Rozaieski]

Thanks Mike! I have considered these two rasps, however, my understanding of the Gramercy and Auriou rasps I'm looking at is that they are much finer than the #49 and #50 (not just that they are hand cut, sorry for not being more clear) and leave a much finer finish than the #49 and #50. From what i have read, one can basically go from the Auriou 13 or 15 grain straight to light scraping before finishing. Of course I know only what I've read, which is why I defer to those who have actually used the Gramercy or Auriou (and the #49 and #50 for that matter, may as well compare them all).

I just know that I am not happy with what I have now :(.

[Mark Singer]

I agree with Michael...I have the Auriou and the Nicholson....The Nichloson are excellent and much less money...I have been using them for years and they really have great control. The Auriou rasps are very good....pricey though!

[Mike Henderson]

BTW, the place I found that sold the Nicholson 49 and 50 rasps for the lowest price was a gun place. They sell the rasps for people who make their own gun stocks. I don't remember their name right now but maybe someone on the forum who's into guns can suggest a name.

I keep getting catalogs from them now, and I don't do anything with guns so I've never bought anything else from them. Kind of feel bad about them spending all that catalog money on me when all I bought was two rasps.

Mike

[Michael Pilla]

I don't have any Auriou or Nicholson rasps so I can't make direct comparisons but I do have the Gramercy Saw Handle Maker's rasp and I'm extremely pleased with the surface it leaves behind. I've already decided that the Gramercy set is in my future as well.

I'm no rasp expert by any stretch of the imagination but it's my understanding that like any other kind of abrading you need to work up through the grits so to speak. I like the fact that the Gramercy set becomes finer as the rasps decrease in size. (standard disclaimer: no relation to Joel or TFWW, just a hapy customer) I've also read that another good strategy is to follow the rasp with a same-sized/shaped file and work them in pairs. The rasp does the heavy lifting and the file does the clean-up.

Michael

[Terry Bigelow]

Whoa Robert, before you decide let me throw yet another brand in there for you. I bought these Dragon had cut rasps from a luthier supply co. :http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Files/Dragon_Hand-cut_Rasps.html. They are excellent. Wider and different shaped from the Nicholson's and come in slightly cheaper. I have had mine since last year and absolutely LOVE them. I bought the set of large.

[Joel Moskowitz]

Joel, I know you tend to visit the forum on occasion, and even though you have a financial interest here, I'd still be interested to hear your opinion as well since you sell both the Gramercy and Auriou and I'm assuming you've had a chance to use both tools.

Thanks!
Bob

I think the pop wood mag review has it on the money. Basic performance is about the same. You can nickel and dime the details: Ours are stainless steel - tougher teeth which means less breaking teeth on harder woods and knots. Auriou has nicer thinner edges. We only have three sizes but they have specfically been scaled for cabinetmaking, not patternmaking and the set sizes are designed to compliment each other. The shortest Gramercy rasp we have is based on the long gone nicholson 55 - and is a very userfull size.

You can't go wrong with either brand and that's why we are proud to carry both.

joel

[Mike Henderson]

I found that place where I bought my Nicholson rasps - Midway (http://www.midwayusa.com/ebrowse.exe/browse?TabID=8&Categoryid=10526&categorystring=649***8816***). They have the 49 for $39.99 and the 50 for $44.99.

Mike

[Rick Schubert]

Mike, I'm a tree hugger so I try to cancel catalogs I don't want. A quick call to customer service almost always gets you off their mailing list. Just a thought.

Rick

[Bob Lang]

Thanks Joel. Two quick notes-you can find the review on the Popwood Weblog. In using either of these, working through 2 or 3 grades will get you extremely close to a finished surface. The tip I got from Michel Auriou was to follow the fine rasp with a cabinet scraper. The rasp leaves minute grooves and the scraper cuts the high spots between them off. Voila! No sanding.

Bob Lang

[David Carroll]

I'll add another vote for the Grammercy set I have the set and the saw maker's rasp and now I wouldn't be without them.

They come handled nicely and ready to work. Great value IMO.

But like Joel said, you can't go wrong with either, the Nicholsons are fine too, but are only available in two sizes, right? (49 & 50).

I haven't made any saw handles yet, but that rasp is outstanding for more sculptural pursuits, the "safe" back is really handy for working into details without buggering up adjacent surfaces.

David C

[Robert Rozaieski]

Thanks all! I think the Gramercy's should fit the bill well.

[Calvin Hobbs]

I recently sent an old Nicholson 50 to be "dipped" at Boggs Tool in California. It may be a little finer now but is sharper than ever. I also bought a new #49 from him which was $35 or so, good price. It also comes "dipped" for sharpness. I would recommend this to anyone looking for a new Nicholson rasp or to sharpen and old one.

You can find them online pretty easily.

Cal

[Terry Bigelow]

What does "dipped" mean?

[Hank Knight]

What does "dipped" mean?


Files and rasps are sharpened by dipping them in an acid bath.

[Barney Markunas]

Greetings! I'm a long time lurker that finally got around to registering. . .

I believe Boggs actually sharpens files and rasps with some sort of abrasive blasting process. I've not tried them but all of the reports I read have been very favorable.

Back to the original post. . . Does anyone have experience with the F. Dick handmade rasps? They are much more attractively priced than the Auriou and if they are half as good as their kitchen knives and steels they should be a first class tool.

[Mike Henderson]

Greetings! I'm a long time lurker that finally got around to registering. . .

I believe Boggs actually sharpens files and rasps with some sort of abrasive blasting process. I've not tried them but all of the reports I read have been very favorable.
Welcome, Barney! My understanding is the same. I believe they use a water/abrasive slurry under very high pressure and abraid the metal to reshape the cutting tips or edges (they also sharpen regular mill cut files).

A guy came to the local woodworkers club and made a presentation on what they did to sharpen files and that's what I remember.

Mike

[Jim Shaver, Oakville Ont]

Thanks Joel. Two quick notes-you can find the review on the Popwood Weblog. In using either of these, working through 2 or 3 grades will get you extremely close to a finished surface. The tip I got from Michel Auriou was to follow the fine rasp with a cabinet scraper. The rasp leaves minute grooves and the scraper cuts the high spots between them off. Voila! No sanding.

Bob Lang

Thanks Bob,

That has been my exact process and also my results, the final size Auriou file I use is so fine, light scraping afterwards is all I need.

[Mark Singer]

Rasps can be sharpened with sulfuric acid.....thats what I use....Maloof does the same if memory serves me:confused: