Festool Circular Saw TS 55 and guide

[Eric Gustafson]

Whew! This is one expensive saw. I am looking for good way to handle sheet stock without going to an more expensive panel saw. Saw this one at the local Wood Craft and have been salivating ever since.

Anyone like to comment? Owners maybe? One specific question I have is concerning the length of guide rails. It comes with a 55" rail that will cross cut ply sheets well, but what about when I need to make a lengthwise cut? They have a longer 105" fence, but that is over $200! You can also get another 55" fence with an extension adapter for less than half of that. Is that extension method still as good?

[sascha gast]

funny you ask today, I have been using it all day today and loved it.
I was cutting down some 4x8 siding which is a lot heavier than ply or even MDF. and frankly it would have been painfull to cut it down on the tablesaw.

it's a workhorse and easy to use.
the guides I have is a 55" and a 36" and I just mounted them together. you just have to confirm with a straight edge a bit, but that's easy.
one day I still get the long rail, I want to think it's worth it, but the other way will do.

get the saw and the rails you want and you'll have fun breaking down sheet goods.

[Tim Sproul]

Be sure to use a vac with the saw. Part of the accuracy from the saw and guide (any brand saw and guide from Festool to EZ to shopmade) will be compromised if you let a lot of chips/dust get in the way.

I opted for the larger TS75 because of the depth. I like to use solid wood and often want to rip 8/4 stock while rough. I can man handle 8/4 sticks onto the table saw but that only works for those that are pretty square off the sawmill and through drying. How many of those do you run across? I use 2, 1400 guides when I need cuts longer than the single guide will accomodate. You need to make a cut with the guides before use to trim the zero clearance stuff on the edge of the guide.

For myself, the superb dust collection on the Festool was worth the price tag. Not only is good dust collection good for your lungs, it really saves you time. You can spend a surprisingly long amount of time collecting chips/dust after the fact if you don't collect as you produce them.

[Tom Cowie]

Be sure to use a vac with the saw. Part of the accuracy from the saw and guide (any brand saw and guide from Festool to EZ to shopmade) will be compromised if you let a lot of chips/dust get in the way.

I opted for the larger TS75 because of the depth. I like to use solid wood and often want to rip 8/4 stock while rough. I can man handle 8/4 sticks onto the table saw but that only works for those that are pretty square off the sawmill and through drying. How many of those do you run across? I use 2, 1400 guides when I need cuts longer than the single guide will accomodate. You need to make a cut with the guides before use to trim the zero clearance stuff on the edge of the guide.

For myself, the superb dust collection on the Festool was worth the price tag. Not only is good dust collection good for your lungs, it really saves you time. You can spend a surprisingly long amount of time collecting chips/dust after the fact if you don't collect as you produce them.


Same here Tim,

TS75 and 2 1400 guide rails. I also opted for the accessory kit with the rail connectors ,clamps and protractor. Totally love this system. I also use it for truing rough lumber as well as sheet goods.

It was worth the price. I would buy it again no question..


Tom

[Bob Aquino]

Whew! This is one expensive saw. I am looking for good way to handle sheet stock without going to an more expensive panel saw. Saw this one at the local Wood Craft and have been salivating ever since.

Anyone like to comment? Owners maybe? One specific question I have is concerning the length of guide rails. It comes with a 55" rail that will cross cut ply sheets well, but what about when I need to make a lengthwise cut? They have a longer 105" fence, but that is over $200! You can also get another 55" fence with an extension adapter for less than half of that. Is that extension method still as good?

I got an atf55 used off ebay about a year or so back. It looked almost new, paid around 300 or so. Best way I have found to handle large sheet stock. I actually do some of my cutting while its still on the truck, use that as one of my sawhorses and support it on the other end. Accuracy is great, cut is about as good as a factory cut, and it doesnt take up alot of room to store. used with a vac, very little sawdust, but since I do most cutting with it outside, I dont bother. My shop is pretty small, so manhandling a 4x8 sheet or a 5x5 of baltic doesnt work too well. I consider it one of my best investments in tools.

I only have the one 55" guide. If I need to make a longer cut, I just move it. I dont clamp it to the work, it stays in place due to the semi sticky rubber on the bottom. If you draw a nice straight line, lining up the guide is a piece of cake, even for somebody that wears tri-focals.

[Byron Trantham]

I have a question. Why use a circular saw to cut sheet rock? Why not use a utility knife?:confused:

[Bill Huber]

I think you are planning to cut a lot more sheet goods then I would ever cut but I thought I would point this one out anyway.

I have the All-In-One, and really love it, its good for the saw and the router and anything else I need a good straight edge. I have the 54 inch but they do make a 99 in. The 99 inch is only $90.

Just a thought.

[Bob Aquino]

I have a question. Why use a circular saw to cut sheet rock? Why not use a utility knife?:confused:

Whoever said they used this saw to cut sheetrock?

[Dan Clark]

Whew! This is one expensive saw. I am looking for good way to handle sheet stock without going to an more expensive panel saw. Saw this one at the local Wood Craft and have been salivating ever since.

Anyone like to comment? Owners maybe? One specific question I have is concerning the length of guide rails. It comes with a 55" rail that will cross cut ply sheets well, but what about when I need to make a lengthwise cut? They have a longer 105" fence, but that is over $200! You can also get another 55" fence with an extension adapter for less than half of that. Is that extension method still as good?
Eric,

I have the TS55 and several guide rails, a CT22 DC, and an MFT1080. For breaking down sheet goods, the TS55 and guide rails are primo, and the CT22 and MFT work very nicely with the TS55. The CT gives you almost dustless cutting. The MFT is a great work surface and, with the TS55 and a guide rail, it gives you an accurate cross cutting tool.

I have several rails - one that says on the MFT and others that I connect together in different ways. A key question - how much sheet stock will you be cutting per month?

If you're cutting more than 3-4 sheets a month, then a single, very long guide rail plus a folding cutting table (they are easy to make) is probably a better alternative. It's always available and always straight. However, the downsides are cost, and storing and transporting the long rail.

If your sheet goods cutting is more infrequent, then connecting two rails with guide rail connectors (part #482107) is probably better. This is cheaper, gives you more flexibility, and storage/transportation are easy. A downside is that you need to check the connection with a straight edge to ensure that the connected rails are (pardon the pun) "straight as a rail". However checking rail straightness if very easy and fast.

To use this configuration, just throw a couple of sheets of pink foam insulation on the floor, flop down the plywood, lay down the guide rail and cut. When done, the guide rails and insulation are easy to store.

You may want to consider one of the combo packages of a TS55 plus an MFT or a Festool vac. You'll save money and leverage your TS55. Either are great combos.

Good luck with your decision.

Regards,

Dan.

[Dan Clark]

Whoever said they used this saw to cut sheetrock?
Bob,

I think Byron hasn't had his first cup of java yet. :cool:

Dan.

[David G Baker]

I have a question. Why use a circular saw to cut sheet rock? Why not use a utility knife?:confused:
Byron,
I saw the same thing you did. Either we both have an eye to brain problem or someone edited the "SHEET ROCK TO SHEET STOCK".
On occasion I do use a battery powered saw to do some critical sheet rock cuts and have even used my table saw to cut some small tight fitting pieces of sheet rock so I wasn't going to write anything about someone using the process on a regular basis to cut sheet rock.
Maybe I have had too much coffee.

[Per Swenson]

Hi all,

I now use the 55 and 65 almost exclusively.

Don't have the big 75 yet.

I cut everything, not just sheet stock, not to be confused with

sheet rock.:D

For those who are new here I make my living in wood butchery.

But haven't been around lately due to a mind boggling amount of work.

And seeing as its my Daughters birthday....

perfect excuse to post a pic.

Per

[Jamie Buxton]

I have the saw+guide, and like it a great deal. However, IMHO joining two short guides doesn't work. I attempted to do that, and found that the two short guides don't stay in alignment. After some unhappy experiences, I gave up and bought the 8-foot rail.

[Loren Hedahl]

Who pays the better rate, you or John?

Loren



Hi all,

I now use the 55 and 65 almost exclusively.

Don't have the big 75 yet.

I cut everything, not just sheet stock, not to be confused with

sheet rock.:D

For those who are new here I make my living in wood butchery.

But haven't been around lately due to a mind boggling amount of work.

And seeing as its my Daughters birthday....

perfect excuse to post a pic.

Per

[Brice Burrell]

I have the saw+guide, and like it a great deal. However, IMHO joining two short guides doesn't work. I attempted to do that, and found that the two short guides don't stay in alignment. After some unhappy experiences, I gave up and bought the 8-foot rail.

I have had no problems joining two rails, I leave a small space between the two rails, about a 1/16" and use a straight edge to get them perfect.

[jason lambert]

see my quick review here

http://forcemachinery.com/forum/viewforum.php?id=7

It is awsome changed my life.... Yes it is expensive but as you said it is cheaper than a pannel saw, takes a heck of alot less room, portable, better dust collection and more versitile. With all that in mind how is it expensive?

Using one rale and moving it works but you will want to get a 8' fale if you use it alot. But one rale will get you started.

[Greg Funk]

I recently picked up the TS55 and CT22 and two 1400 guides. I haven't had any problem using the two guides connected together. I think they end up pretty straight but I have not bothered to check as I usually run the pieces through the tablesaw anyway. I mostly use the single 1400 guide.

Greg

[Rick Christopherson]

If you want to see some previews of the saw, the unreleased US manual is at http://festool.home.att.net/public/TS_55_EQ_US.pdf.

I don't know why this manual is still unreleased, but it does not appear on the Festool USA website yet. This website is mine, and is where I put documents before Festool releases them.

As for guide rails, I prefer to have dedicated rails for the size cut I need. I have the 55, 105, and most recently picked up the shorter 32. The 105 is really nice to have, but it can be a problem to store unless you have a garage shop with taller ceilings.

[Jamie Buxton]

I have had no problems joining two rails, I leave a small space between the two rails, about a 1/16" and use a straight edge to get them perfect.

Yup, I used a straightedge to set them up. However, I found that in normal shop handling, the set screws slip a bit, and the joined guide is no longer straight. Mind you, I want the joined guide to be as straight as one guide. As I see it, the problem is that the 50" short guide is a long lever, and a whack on it puts a big load on the set screws. The only thing holding the set screws in position is friction, and they slip. Heck, before I gave up on it, I had those screws tightened down so hard that the bulge was quite visible on the back side of the extrusion.

[John Lucas]

And seeing as its my Daughters birthday....

perfect excuse to post a pic.

Per

UNCLE!!! Per, she is beautiful and not like her father, thank ...."

[Don Bullock]

...Per, she is beautiful and not like her father, thank ...."

John I was thinking the same thing.;) :D

Oh, as for the Festool saw and vac, I'm convinced now that I need them. As soon as my depleated tool budget will allow (or sooner), I plan on buying them.

[Todd Jensen]

Well, I just used my 55 tonight for the first time. I couldn't spring for the Festool vac, so just used a rubber plumbing adapter to hook up my 2" shop vac hose, and I was off and running. The cuts were VERY smooth - it was like my Forrest blade tracking on a laser line. I'm very impressed and looking forward to ripping down sheets tomorrow for my current built-in project. As much as the special Festool vac would have been nice, the shop vac worked excellent. This tool winds up smooth, cuts smooth, feels good - solid and steady - when cutting, and most importantly, produces results. Will it turn you into a hot carpenter? - probably not, so I won't bother posting pics of me.:) But Pers, don't let that stop you from posting more.:o

(insert appropriately polite compliment here) ... and Happy Birthday.

Bottom Line: I love a few tools - my Hitachi dual slide with Forrest blade, my bunny planes, Stabila digital level/angle finder, and now, they're all going to be jealous - this saw and guide system is truly an effective and efficient way to rip down sheets. Also, I'm using 2 55" guides together, and after trying to leave a little space between them to leave room for alignment, my initial thoughts are that it may be better to just fasten them tight.

[Jason White]

Buy the Festool. After awhile, you'll find your table saw is collecting dust from lack of use. Then you can sell it and buy the CT22 vacuum! :D

TP


Whew! This is one expensive saw. I am looking for good way to handle sheet stock without going to an more expensive panel saw. Saw this one at the local Wood Craft and have been salivating ever since.

Anyone like to comment? Owners maybe? One specific question I have is concerning the length of guide rails. It comes with a 55" rail that will cross cut ply sheets well, but what about when I need to make a lengthwise cut? They have a longer 105" fence, but that is over $200! You can also get another 55" fence with an extension adapter for less than half of that. Is that extension method still as good?

[Aaron Beaver]

Do you guys just lay the sheets of ply on foam or something to make the cuts with the Saw & guides?

[Jamie Buxton]

Do you guys just lay the sheets of ply on foam or something to make the cuts with the Saw & guides?

A big sheet of foam works, but is expensive and takes storage space. I make up expendable caps for my sawhorses. They're U-shaped in cross-section. The legs of the U only need be long enough to capture the device on the top of the sawhorse. I glue 'em up out of whatever plywood is in the scrap pile. I cut through them until they get completely chowdered up, and then make another set. Unlike the sheet of foam, they're free, and take little room to store.

[jason lambert]

for ply wood sheets I just lie them on top of 2 or 3 2x4 or scrap wood set the depth and cut. For smaller pieces I use my MFT table but you could use a simple table made with MDF you just set the depth so you don't cut through the table. The saw is that accurate depth wise.

[Eric Gustafson]

I gotta thank you guys for all the great talk on the Festool. I've been quiet, but soaking up every post. I also have read all the pros and cons between the Festool and the EZ-Smart Guide elsewhere on the website. While laying down the cash for the Festool will be a big ouch :eek: to my swedish penny-pinching nature, but in the long run, it looks like the best way to go.
I saw how the Festool was constructed at the local WoodCraft and was impressed by the solid feel in the guide. The EZ is tempting because of its price, but Bob Nazro's reveiw stated that its accuracy is somewhat dependent upon the user's technique to maintain consistant track in the guides.
As I pingpong between the two systems, the pros of the Festool outweigh the EZ, for me anyway.

[Joe Spear]

I use two shorter guides, and they line up perfect every time with no problem.

For a cutting surface I made a tic-tac-toe shaped thing out of cedar 2x2's. Two long ones (6' or longer if you want) and three short ones (4'). Arrange them in a grid pattern. Lay the long pieces parallel about 3 feet apart and lay the short pieces across them, one about one foot from each end and one in the middle. Then drill through the intersections. Countersink for bolts, washers, and nuts.

You end up with something that looks like a ladder, with the long rails on top of the short rails. Put in on a tabletop. Put your sheet on top of the grid. If you want to cut your sheet the long way, have the long rails on top so that when you cut, they support the sheet, and the blade doesn't reach down as far as the short crossrails. If you want to cut width-wise, flip it over so that the cut will pass between the crossrails and not reach down as far as the long rails.

It helps to clamp the ends of the lower rails to the table so it doesn't slide around. Two clamps are usually enough. You just have to be careful to place the cutline of you sheet so that the saw doesn't cut into any of the top rails that are supporting the sheet. When you are finished, the whole thing just folds up scissors-like so you can stand it in a corner.

Sacrificial tabletops, horses, and rigid insulation boards work also, but this thing seems more like a tool.