oil finish on red oak

[tom blankenship]

I use red oak because it is readily available. But, open pore nature of this wood makes it annoying to use an oil and varnish finish due to the tendency for the oil to seep/bleed out for some time. Despite this, I like the oil and varnish for its appearance and because I can manage it.

Is it possible to reduce this tendency to bleed out by using japan drier?

Thanks in advance.

[Al Wasser]

I can't speak to japan drier, but I have had real good luck using danish oil. I apply the first coat and then wet sand. This builds a slurry and fills the pores. I wipe that off and let it dry and just build coats as needed thereafter without the sanding

[Steve Schoene]

How about using white oak--isn't it about as widely available? Pores in white oak aren't as deep, which is of some benefit.

You might also modify the way you apply the danish. The usual method floods on the oil, lets it soak and then wipes of as much as can be gotten. That puts a lot in the pores. You might try just wiping on a basic wet, but not flooding coat, and wiping it off sooner. After several coats you will have achieved about as much penetration, but without so much oil to weep from the pores.

[tom blankenship]

Thanks for the replies.

Steve, white oak is not plentiful here near Sacramento, CA, and is much more expensive.

I will try to reduce the amount of oil in the finish, use less finish, and wipe it off sooner.