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View Full Version : Kwila bowl (critiques welcome)



Jason Slutsky
05-31-2007, 7:36 PM
This wood was interesting. I had never heard of it before winning a bowl blank at a turner club meeting last month. It's very orange and the curls looked like pumpkin as they came off. I personally like this form (also used in the applewood bowl I just posted) though I would like to have gotten a little more curve at the lip.

About 5"x2.5" - 4 coats Formby's tung oil finish

Jim Becker
05-31-2007, 7:51 PM
Very nice! This one, being shorter than the other piece I just commented on works great with not closing it up any more than it is. Beautiful piece!

Ron Erickson
05-31-2007, 9:42 PM
Beautiful wood, and nice shape. I like that size bowl walls thinner, but that's just me. Ron

Bernie Weishapl
05-31-2007, 10:55 PM
Great bowl Jason. I really like the form and the thickness of the walls. You did a nice job on it.

Steve Schlumpf
05-31-2007, 10:56 PM
Very nice looking bowl Jason! Great looking wood, love the form and the wall thickness makes me think it would be perfect for an ice cream bowl!

Jonathon Spafford
06-03-2007, 1:23 AM
Great looking bowl... I like the shape of this one! This looks like a bowl you need to fill up with dark chocolate kisses and set on the coffee table! Great work!

joe greiner
06-03-2007, 7:07 AM
Very nicely done. The curve at the rim looks fine to me. I also like the sloping rim. I'd suggest turning a slight dished shape on the underside instead of the flat bottom. This puts the support on a ring, and will reduce wobbling when/if the bowl changes shape with varying humidity.

Joe

Dennis Peacock
06-03-2007, 7:25 AM
Jason,

Very beautiful bowl. I like the outside form of this one very well. The only thing I would change is on the "inside". Where the walls meet the bottom? It appears to be a bit too "square". For many turners as well as myself, the transition from bowl wall to bottom is often times either way too "rounded" or too "squared". I use a large bowl scraper to help me refine my walls to bottom transition while I learn how to better do that with just a single bowl gouge. Overall? Very pretty piece and well done. :D

Keith Burns
06-03-2007, 9:09 AM
Jason, I'm with you on this one. I like the form and the heavy walls. Looks good to me !!

Ken LaSota
06-03-2007, 11:37 AM
Jason nice job,thicker walls sometimes make a bowl stand out.
Great job.
Ken

Jason Slutsky
06-03-2007, 2:40 PM
I agree Joe. I may stick it in my compression chuck and turn a slightly concave base. Though so far, it hasn't warped at all which surprised me since it wasn't completely dry when I was turning it. Surprisingly stable piece of wood!

Jason Slutsky
06-03-2007, 2:44 PM
Dennis,

I completely agree with your point about where the wall meets the bottom on the inside. This is my main obstacle in bowl turning right now. I've been working at this...had the same problem in the applewood bowl I recently posted.

I haven't yet figured out how to properly present the gouge during this transition. I've tried to stick my scraper in the corner to clean it up but bad things have happened. I'll keep trying though!

Jason Slutsky
06-03-2007, 2:46 PM
Ken, I know what you mean! "Thin is in" but I personally like a nice chunky looking bowl. I think this form calls for a thicker wall whereas a thin wall would more be more appropriate on a delicate form.

Jason Slutsky
06-03-2007, 2:47 PM
Thanks all for your comments and suggestions!! Very helpful as usual!!

Chas Jones
06-03-2007, 3:36 PM
Jason, only just got round to looking, been stuck in shed racing some wet wood against the splits stakes all day.

Two comments came to mind and one personal preference, all I find have been covered by previous posters.

The classic simple form I like.

1: Like most perverse turners I invariably turn a bowl over to look at the base, would have expected to see concave, both for aesthetics and practical wood movement reasons, I don't wait to see if it warps, I assume it will.

2: I noted the inside to base curvature did not match the externals.

3: Personal, I would aim for about 1/3rd thinner on the wall thickness, but I see them enthused over with 2-3" walls so what do I know.

On the transition of wall to base, I find I need two gouges with differing bevels, one basically ground at 45deg (for walls and initial hollowing) and the other at 75deg. (for base) the transition point where I change from one to the other varies upon the curvature of the transition and the wood behaviour, all else fails, I shear scrape.

Hope the above is not too pretentious from a newbie turner but I am trying to look at pieces more objectively.