Corel Outline Question...

[Mark Koenig]

I need to make the image have about a .125 thick shaded outline and a hair line about .125 from the outline and for a cut line... All of the outline fillets need to be concentric... Trim it as a triangle with equal fillets that still contain the image...

How do I do it :confused:...

Making great progress with speeds and feeds on the laser and image contrast but lacking in Corel...

Tried to use an arrow for the outline but you can see that didn't work...:eek:

[Mark Koenig]

Never mind... I figured it out, shezz!!! :rolleyes:

[Mark Koenig]

For a Boy Scout Troop...

[Frank Corker]

Very nice job, turned out very well evened. They will be pleased

[Mark Koenig]

Thanks Frank for the Kind Words...

I found some new ways (new to me) to make it much better geometrically but the Scouts liked it just fine... I'll do better next time and there looks like there will be a WHOLE LOTTA' "Next Times" from the response...;)

Will be making store displays and two orders in the morning...

And I started this business so I wouldn't have to work sooooo many hours...:eek:

[Bob Cole]

Newbie is wondering what you did.

I am very new to Lasers and Corel. Like you, I know what I want to do but finding the correct method eludes me.

Everything I've done so far (have had the machine less than a week) hasn't come out that detailed. I've wasted several types of materials with different pwr/spd/ppi with still no real great result.

I have a ULS X-660 60watt.

[Mark Koenig]

To create a PowerClip object in X3

1.Select Your Bitmap.

2.Click Effects - PowerClip- Place inside container.

3.Click the object you want to use as the container.
(The ouline you drew or a standard shape from Corel...)

If you want to create a nested PowerClip object, hold down the right mouse button, drag the PowerClip object inside a container, and click PowerClip inside.

You can search keyword "Container" in your help tool menu if you need more detailed instructions...

Hope this helps... Mark. ;)

[Bob Cole]

I will give that a shot.

[Mark Koenig]

Oops, just re-read your post and may have not answered your "Detail" question...:eek:

It just takes a lot of experimenting with the different materials... I was using poplar from Lowes... Pay attention to the grain direction and color... I also clear coat the wood before engraving...

The image you are using is the most important factor in this equation... The image will look "funny" on the computer but will look totally different on the wood...

Experiment with different contrast and tones... You may-as-well accept that you will burn up a lot of test material so save your settings...

Wood's cheap and a good place to start...

65% Speed 95% Power @600 DPI... for that pic...

Mark...

P.S. I know how you feel... I'm TRYING to figure out Granite and Marble...:mad:

P.S.S. I am by no means an expert on this subject so if the experts want to chime in... PLEASE DO!!!:)

[Bob Cole]

I feel like a tard. I too purchased some wood samples (poplar and oak) from HD and realized I should have clear coated them. I knew this and read it in the manuals. Too anxious to get cracking.

[George M. Perzel]

Hi Guys;
Polplar and oak are two of the poorest woods to laser, especially for engraving. Try alder, cherry, and maple as they are much better for this type of work. Email me your addresses and I'll send you some samples of chery, maple, brazilian cherry , and walnut.
Best regards;
George
LaserArts
gperzel@rochester.rr.com

[Mark Koenig]

Hi Guys;
Polplar and oak are two of the poorest woods to laser, especially for engraving. Try alder, cherry, and maple as they are much better for this type of work. Email me your addresses and I'll send you some samples of chery, maple, brazilian cherry , and walnut.
Best regards;
George
LaserArts
gperzel@rochester.rr.com

I know that now after all the advice from the creek but made it work for some of my applications...

Will order some of the good stuff after the show this weekend...

Thanks for the advice... :)