Pocket hole question - how to hold parts?

[Rob Will]

Hello all,
I just bought my first pocket hole jig (Kreg K3 master kit).

This looks like a tool that will find a fair amount of use around here but I have a question..... What is the best (heavy duty) method for holding down your parts for assembly? It seems that holding the parts tightly together and firmly against a flat surface is critical(?).

What sort of hold-down fixtures do you use?

Thanks,
Rob

[glenn bradley]

I use these on a firm FLAT surface.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39535

Also, using the right screws is very important for success. The threads should not traverse the joint.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/0812-SPR/Super-8-Pocket-Hole-Dry-Lube

Note how the threads end and leave a decent amount of clean shaft.

[James Phillips]

Kreg makes a clamp that goes into one of the pocket holes and holds it in place. Well worth the cost

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4768

[Joe Chritz]

Depends what you are attaching.

For face frames I use a Kreg hand clamp, like a vise grip with two big flat surfaces. One on the frame and the other under the table. It pinches the frame to hold the joint flat and keep it from moving.

I then stick a K-body lengthwise to keep the joint from opening before I drive the screws. I like to rub the screw on a block of wax first when doing the end close to the stile end.

It is much faster to do then type.

Face frames onto boxes I clamp in place or just hold by hand. I haven't used it for much else but those methods give me nearly perfect joints.

Joe

[Gary Keedwell]

Kreg has a clamp that holds the parts against your bench top. Best method I have tried. You have to mortise the holder into the bench. I know a few woodworkers who swear by them.;)

Gary K.

[J.R. Rutter]

I use a big C-clamp to hold it to my assembly table. I like it better than the vise grip type clamps...

[Chris Schoolland]

I'll back Gary up on the mortised in bench top method. I put mine in a piece of plywood 3'x3' or so, making the system more portable.

[James Rowe]

I too used the mortised in bench top method. Works well, I also have a detachable "L" shaped fence made of 3/4 hard maple. The fence gives me a perfect 90 degree backer for holding the pieces together while assembling.

[Rob Will]

I too used the mortised in bench top method. Works well, I also have a detachable "L" shaped fence made of 3/4 hard maple. The fence gives me a perfect 90 degree backer for holding the pieces together while assembling.

I sure would like to see a picture of that removable fence.


Rob

[Brent Grooms]

I too used the mortised in bench top method. Works well, I also have a detachable "L" shaped fence made of 3/4 hard maple. The fence gives me a perfect 90 degree backer for holding the pieces together while assembling.

I would like to see that as well. I am planning on putting 2-3 of these plates down the center of my bench top

[Per Swenson]

Rob,


Most of my work is accomplished on site.

For this I just use saw horse's, 2x4 frame and a sheet

of ply on top. To this I screw two of the heavy duty bench clamps.

I just move 'em around as the task requires.

For a more permanent assembly table. the industrious might

want to consider installing T track and sliding the units around.

As for mortising them in, I always have shim stock so this is not a
issue.

Hope this helps.

per

[Mike Goetzke]

I use and like the bench top mortised clamp the best, but, I got a free DVD with my Kreg and the guy in the video is always using the mortised clamp with the steel plate that Kreg sells.

Like others I have found the Kreg clamps are good (especially if you attach some of that self adhesive sandpaper to them) for face pressure but lack control of the sideways-shear load. The "L" clamp mentioned above sounds interesting - I at times use my cabinet clamps to stop the shearing motion.

[Keith Webster]

I use lots of clamps when building cabinet fronts. I also screw down a couple of 1x4's 90 degrees square to each other to give me something to clamp the faces to.

[Jeff Wright]

Kreg's clamp and plate. Works good.

[David Giles]

Rob, I use the Kreg jig extensively for face frames and cabinet boxes. For FF, the big hold down clamp mortised into a flat surface works best. The hand held clamps work okay, but usually need another Bessey clamp to hold the pieces together so that they don't slip as the screw is tightened. I've learned not to tighten the screws too much.

For cabinet boxes, Kreg makes a right angle clamp. One leg fits into the pocket hole; the other leg clamps to a flat surface. If you can afford it, get 3-4 of these. It's an easy way of hold the dry fitup together. Drill two sets of holes (outermost on the Kreg jig) at each hole position. It only takes a few more seconds after the board is positioned. Now it's easy to clamp right next to each screw hole.