Link Belts?

[Bob Lasley]

Good Evening All,

I was using a 3-1/8" forstener bit on my drill press this evening drilling holes in walnut for clocks and kept having problems with the belt slipping even with very light pressure on the bit. I sharpened the bit, but that didn't help. I tightened the belt as much as I dared, but the slipping continued. I'm thinking that going to a link belt might help. What say you?

Bob

[Lars Thomas]

Does the belt have a 'glazed' appearance? Might try some belt dressing (auto parts store). A link-belt seems excessive (to me anyhow) on a DP.

[Wes Bischel]

Bob,
A link belt like Power Twist may be a little better, but I would attribute that to it being new than the design. There are special Power Twist belts that have a coating to increase the grip but they are very expensive. I would start with a new set of v-belts - good ones like Gates - a belt dressing that Lars suggested may get you going again.

Of all the things to have trouble with on a project :rolleyes:

Good Luck, Wes

[Bob Lasley]

Lars,

No glaze on the belt. I had thought of belt dressing, but of course I didn't have any on hand.

Wes,

You may be right about putting a good quality belt on it. The one that is on it now is the OEM belt and I'm sure its far from the best. Luckily, with a measure of patience, I finally got the two holes drilled.

Thanks guys,
Bob

[John Miliunas]

Bob, one other thing comes to mind: That thar is a pretty good-sized hole you're boring! Are you sure your table is staying obsolutely perpendicular to the bit throught the whole cut? If not, it may be binding itself on the walls of the hole once it gets skewed a bit. I had that same problem on mine a while back and found that the backer board I was using under the piece I was drilling, rocked just the tiniest bit and the Forstner would bind. I milled up a piece of Oak to about 7/4, making sure all surfaces were absolutely parallel and much of the problem disappeared. :cool:

[David Rose]

Bob, I think the maximum friction from a standard belt is there with cogged belts. They are little more cost than "V"s and supposedly beat link belts for friction and are as smooth running. I don't know this myself but remember Forrest Addy and a couple of other machinists suggesting them. My Delta 16 & 1/2" ran as rough as a cobb with the original belt. It smoothed out after a while of running but would be rough again when not run for long. I think it was taking a set though I used it every day for a short time. I finally put link belts on it, on the BS, & on my 6" jointer. They all seemed happier. I like link belts. They are universally adjustable for fit and often can just slip over the edge of a pulley without detensioning. Even though they have some stretch, they hold the pulleys well. But I haven't tried drilling any post holes like you are doing so...

John, that's a good tip.

David

[Jim DeLaney]

I put link belts on my Powermatic drill press, and it made a big difference. No slippage. It'll stall the motor first.

My Powermatic uses the smaller 3/8" (green) belting. I bought mine from Grizzley for about $20.00 a couple years ago.

[Don Farr]

Bob, my vote is for the Fenner link belt. I put them on everything. They don't slip and cut down on vibration. I buy them local in Atlanta for about $4.50 a foot, which is a little cheaper than mail order.
I also keep a little extra around so if a link breaks I can replace it. Has not happened yet though.

[Bob Johnson]

Don,

Where in Atlanta do you get the Fenner belts?

Bob

[Tyler Howell]

Linked belts on my TS kept it from walking around the room, and shaking the shop to pieces. Used them on the jointer and DP too which run quieter.
TJH