Do I need a router slead?

[jason lambert]

I am cutting drawer ends using the CMT drawer lock bit. The issue is I have a hard time keeping the wood flat going between both fences on the router table and I am afraid it is going to kick out some where in the middle. I have tried a push stick behind it and that sort of helps especially with the grain not getting chipped out but that only leaves one hand to control the wood and grab it well.

What is the best technique to do this? I am thinking a router sled would help and if so can someone recommend one or even send me a pic of homemade ones I hate to put this project on hold to order one but may have to, I don't want to ruin my wood.

[glenn bradley]

Not quite sure I've got this right. I assume you are talking about the cut where the panel is held vertically against the fence(?). I rigged a couple of feather boards in a stacked array using a block of wood to raise one above the other. They now sell these commercially but they can be easily shop made:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17197

[jason lambert]

actually it is the other way that I am having issues when cutting the end grane and the piece is agenst the table. Maybe I need to make a 0 clearance guide the issue is I have to much float or truing to hold the board stedy between the guides.

[glenn bradley]

I use two tricks; one courtesy of a Creeker. The Creeker tip is to cut you end grain (sides) out of a piece that is large enough to yield a few sides. This piece is larger and easier to handle. When profiled you can rip to desired height (this also helps with tear out as the end strips generally become waste).

If I have already cut my sides to height, I first admonish myself for not doing it the easy way, then I use a scrap panel as a backer board. The scrap panel when riding against the fence becomes a sort of miter gauge to stabilize the drawer side.

Or there's this, although I primarily use it for rails:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=40640

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I'm think yes . But I am picturing you needing a special built miter fence that will hold the board in whatever position you want while providing a straight path across the cutter.