Jointer help needed

[Scott Rader]

Based on price, workshop size and my general needs.....I'm down to the following two and I need your input:

Delta model #JT 360 $369 , but I can get for $332

Grizzly model #G 0452 $310

both are 6"

Thanks for your input!

[glenn bradley]

I know you clarified your reasons but I just have to say it . . . get an 8". There, now that my conscience is clear; many people love their Griz stuff. My 6" Delta is outta here as soon as my "new jointer" piggy bank gets full.

[Chuck Lenz]

Glenn, out of curiosity and me being dumb to the subject of jointer size, what is the advantage of going to a wider jointer other than a longer bed ?

[Earl Reid]

I have a 6" Delta , I wish I had a 8" . Longer table and would be able to joint 8" boards
Earl

[Chuck Lenz]

But for a 8" board wouldn't a surface planer be better ? Or am I missing something ? The book I just looked at describes a jointer is used for joining edges of boards.

[glenn bradley]

But for a 8" board wouldn't a surface planer be better ? Or am I missing something ? The book I just looked at describes a jointer is used for joining edges of boards.

Jointers are the first step in achieving square stock. True they are used for edge jointing but if that's all you're going to do, use your router table or a glue-line rip blade on your table saw.

When presented a piece of less than perfect lumber (and they all are) you proceed as follows:


Face joint the board to achieve a flat face.
Use the now flat face against the fence of the jointer to achieve an edge that is 90* to the face.
Use the table saw referencing the new edge to rip to width.
Use your planer referencing the flat face to achieve the desired thickness.There are variations on this such as joint face, plane to thickness, joint edge, rip to width. You would always begin the squaring process by face jointing. The width of your jointer determines the widest board you can flatten. There are work-arounds such as planer sleds (I am making a better one right now [future post]) and going Neanderthal (I've got a gimpy elbow and cannot hand plane that much).

Jointers make surfaces flat. Planers make surfaces parallel, even if they are not flat. That is; a board with 'twist', planed to thickness renders a board that still has twist but with parallel surfaces.

See: http://www.newwoodworker.com/squrstock.html
or http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/gizmodyne/blog/907
and others . . . search on squaring stock or squaring wood or squaring lumber.

[Jim Thiel]

Based on price, workshop size and my general needs.....I'm down to the following two and I need your input:

Delta model #JT 360 $369 , but I can get for $332

Grizzly model #G 0452 $310

Between these two, I'd get the Grizzly. 1 horse over 3/4, closed stand over open for better/easier dust collection.

Jim

[Steve Kohn]

I've a 4 in jointer, now own a 6 inch with long bed, and am now looking for a 10 or 12 inch. Most of the stock I am now buying is rough sawn, and needs to be faced. Tough do do with a 6 inch jointer and 7 or 8 inch stock.

[Pat Germain]

I think you guys (and by "guys", I'm including the women here) really saved me some headaches in this category. I was all set to buy a Jet 6" jointer. Then I started lurking here and every time the subject of jointers came up, everyone said to go with an 8" - or even larger, if possible. In fact, some Googling revealed the most common quote on the 'net, when it comes to jointers is, "Get at least an 8-Inch".

I'm now saving my cash for an 8". There's a very nice 2005 Delta 8" jointer for sale near me, which I saw on Craigslist, but I'm not quite ready to buy. If by chance it's still around next week, I just might take it off his hands. If it's gone, I'll keep looking. I'll just keep telling myself how unlikely it will be for me to say, "Dang, I should have saved a few bucks and bought a 6" jointer." With an 8", I'll be able to not only face wider boards, but also grunt quite loudly while I'm admiring the jointer just sitting in my shop. ;)

[Dan Lee]

I think the stock you buy is a factor. If you never need to face joint any wider than 6" then 6" should be fine

I have 6" jointer. I rarely ever buy/find stock 6" or under. Almost all I buy is 7-9" wide. So when I need to face joint I gotta rip under 6" on the BS first sometimes leading to waste and processing more individual pieces
A 10" Oliver or General is my near future:D
Dan