Cleaning TS top

[Byron Trantham]

Do any of you out there have a good method to clean a TS top? I sweat profusely and get little rust spots all over the thing. The spots are not pitted but I would like to clean and polish the surface. I think i have read that a ROS and scotch brite pads have been used. What cleaner could/should be used?

[Steven Triggs]

I've used Empire TopSaver and been very pleased with it. It is a spray, and comes with a rubbing pad. It removes the existing rust, and supposedly helps make the top resist new rust. It also lubricates it.

Anyway, I've not compared it to others because it is the only one I've used, but I've felt like it does a good job.

[Tom Henry]

I use this 2 step process. Works for me...

[Ken Garlock]

I have a sweat problem also. I find that if I carry a cloth and wipe up the drop immediately, it doesn't have time to rust or stain the saw or jointer tops.
I have been using Top Saver for several years.

[Greg Cole]

I use the BOEING stuff too. Don't forget to wax the cast iron afterwards too... the coat of wax will keep the drips from rusting the iron after you get it nice & clean.
One tip with the Rust Free is to make sure you apply it evenly or the iron will have "shadows" in it... DAMHIKT. :cool:

[Byron Trantham]

I have a sweat problem also. I find that if I carry a cloth and wipe up the drop immediately, it doesn't have time to rust or stain the saw or jointer tops.
I have been using Top Saver for several years.

Ken,
Where do you buy Top Saver?

[Dick Sylvan]

WD-40 also helps remove rust.

[Byron Trantham]

Thanks for all the tips. I just ordered some Top Saver. Don't you just love the Internet?:p

[Rob Nolan]

How about an airconditioner in the shop? :D

My shop is in the basement which stays cool in Summer ... I run a dehumidifier also.

Other than that I keep a good coat of wax on my cast iron surfaces.

[Dewayne Reding]

WD-40 also helps remove rust.

WD40 does remove light corrosion, but IMO it is not much of a preservative. Bare iron rusts back fairly quickly if you don't follow the WD with another product, or repeat the WD step more frequently than I care to bother.

[John Keane]

I cleaned my TS top today. Mineral spirits and fine grit (red) Mirlon, followed by Bostix Topcote. I did not have any rust.

[Jim Becker]

When I do my two or three times per year "cast iron" maintenance, I use my ROS and 220 grit. Then I reapply simple paste wax. Two coats. I never have rust problems, even from occasional sweat.

You may want to wear a terry head band, however, if you sweat "a lot" to help reduce the dripping if you can.

[Ted Torres]

When I do my two or three times per year "cast iron" maintenance, I use my ROS and 220 grit. Then I reapply simple paste wax. Two coats. I never have rust problems, even from occasional sweat.

You may want to wear a terry head band, however, if you sweat "a lot" to help reduce the dripping if you can.

Great Tip, Jim (I'm always wearing one while WW)!

Does the 220 on a ROS "polish" the cast...just got a new 22124 and want to remove wing .003" peaks and maybe get a -mirror like shine- (aka:PM) out of the overall cast tops!? :confused:

Ted

[Randal Cobb]

How about an airconditioner in the shop? :D


Jumping in here... sometimes an A/C doesn't help. My shop is in my garage, insulated, and I keep dedicated A/C set on 68 marvelous degrees; to hell with electric bills, I'm comfortable. But, I also sweat when I brush my teeth, and even the A/C doesn't help me. I just keep a good two-three layers of wax on the surfaces of my tools (except my granite bandsaw table) and I don't have any rust.

Damn, just realized it's time to do that again on my jointer and planer. ICK!

[Jim Becker]

Does the 220 on a ROS "polish" the cast...just got a new 22124 and want to remove wing .003" peaks and maybe get a -mirror like shine-

No, you cannot get a mirror like shine from anything as coarse as 220 grit. That's never my objective anyway. The idea is to clean it of any rust and then protect it from more. Small dings, scrapes and non-rust discoloration are no matter to me.

[Ben Cadotte]

I travel for work. In a couple cases I was gone 4 months, and 2 weeks home and gone again for 3 months. In that time period a couple of my tools got some surface rust.
For light rust I use a scotch brite pad or steel wool. After cleaning I use regular paste wax.

For heavier rust I use scotch brite (roloc) discs with my air die grinder. The first long trip was with no notice so I had no time to prepare the tools before I left. Now I am more cautious about keeping wax on them. Have not had a problem since. Paste wax works very well for me.

[Jason Scott]

Take a look at my old thread, lot of great info, I did what Bob Feeser recommended and it made my top look like brand new, thanks again Bob!:

http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=76282

[Steven Wilson]

Roloc disks on my angle grinder (gets rid of rust). For lighter work I like using a bit of lube (WD-40, 3n1, etc) with SandFlex hand blocks http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/images_p/C!001001.jpg

[glenn bradley]

I have used the Rust Free product to lift stains with success. Follow the directions . . . don't let it sit too long. Once the tough stains are out I use a gray scotch pad on a 1/4 sheet sander and mineral spirits to even it all out. I use a couple coats of Johnson's Paste Wax for protections and rewax about once a month or less as needed. The T-9 didn't impress me.

[Ted Torres]

No, you cannot get a mirror like shine from anything as coarse as 220 grit.

Thanks for the response, Jim!

Is it possible (with finer grit paper) to get a PM "mirror-like" shine on say a Steel City, Delta, Jet, or C-man cast iron table tops?

More curious than a real need. :rolleyes:

Ted

[Doug Shepard]

I've used Empire TopSaver and been very pleased with it. It is a spray, and comes with a rubbing pad. It removes the existing rust, and supposedly helps make the top resist new rust. It also lubricates it.
...


I'm a recent convert after years of using WD40 and steel wool. It got some stuff out that the WD40 was having trouble with. Good stuff.