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View Full Version : New Lee Valley Remote Self-Cleaning Blastgates for PVC



Doug Shepard
05-24-2007, 9:49 PM
After contemplating buying remote blastgates, some replies on an earlier thread of mine got me thinking about making my own gates. I wasn't entirely happy with the homebrew examples I saw for one reason or another. I'd also read lots of positive comments on the Lee Valley self-cleaning blastgates. After kicking some ideas around and knowing LV's liberal return policy if I decided this wouldn't work, I decided to get 4 LV gates and see what if anything I could do to make them "remote". My gates will be overhead in the rafters and I need to operate them from below. After a few weekends of experimentation, this is what I came up with. I think this is going to work out well - so Rob Lee, I wont be returning the other 3 gates that I haven't modified yet - and if this gives you any ideas, I'd like my royalty check in $USD, No Loonies please:D
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I originally tried out a bridge piece bolted onto the opposite end of the gate, but the needed spring length made finding ones that would work almost impossible. So I opted for this arrangement. A 3/16" piece of aluminum is attached to the gate flange with #6-32 bolts. The middle eyebolt is for attaching chain to pull from below. The 2 outer eyebolts are for attaching the spring ends. All holes through the aluminum are tapped. Had to put these holes a bit closer to the edge of the gate flange than I would have liked, but the bolt heads and eyebolt nut need to be offset or they'll jam on the blastgate housing and stop the gate from completely opening. The 2 factory bolts on the other spring ends were too short, so are replaced with ones slightly longer. Now that I know this works, I also want to put some sort of short sleeve over those threads so that the spring end doesn't get worn. It took a fair bit of trial and error to find the right springs to make this work, but I found these at a local hardware store and they'll work nicely. Something just a tiny bit less stiff/strong might have been better but these will do.

There's also the issue of these not really being the right size for use with 6" S&D PVC. 1/16" x 3/4" Self Adhesive Rubber from McMaster-Carr solved that problem. Just going by measurements with digital calipers, I originally got 1/8" but just couldn't get it to fit into the PVC. McM-C also has 3/32" x 3/4" that I think might work too. This 1/16" slips into the PVC easily enough, but it's snug enough that I cant rotate the gate inside the PVC.
Just wanted to share my Rube-Goldberg efforts in case anyone else needs something similar.

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Reg Mitchell
05-24-2007, 10:53 PM
here you go Doug
A few pieces of scrap ply made to fit snug
Reg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d99/male_man/cradle057.jpg

fRED mCnEILL
05-24-2007, 11:05 PM
"so Rob Lee, I wont be returning the other 3 gates that I haven't modified yet - and if this gives you any ideas, I'd like my royalty check in $USD, No Loonies please"

You'll be s-o-r-r-y. The loonie is on track to be par with greenback shortly and most analysis think it will be worth more than US after that.

Fred Mc.

Doug Shepard
05-26-2007, 6:55 PM
In case anyone else is thinking of using the LV gates with PVC, I've come to the conclusion that the 3/32" rubber strips that McMaster-Carr has are the ones to get (item #93755K43). What appeared snug with the 1/16" rubber turns out to have been some out-of-roundness with the short piece of PVC I was using to test with. 1/8" just wont fit into the PVC and the 1/16" has a bit of gap.

Doug Shepard
06-30-2007, 9:23 PM
Just an update on these. 3 of my 4 gates are now installed and this appears to be working out rather nicely. I can reach these from below and they're working smoothly. The main reason I put the gates overhead was that I'd have to have all 4 of my downtubes installed just to have 3 gates closed while using the 4th. All my downtubes will be set up to plug them in as needed and removed for normal garage use. If I'm only setting up one machine, I only need one tube installed and can shut the other gates on the overhead ducts. I've got all my above the rafter stuff done now. Just need to take care of the downtube stuff, flex hose, and machine hookups. I can see light at the end of the tunnel.

I'm using 2 keyrings on the pull chain. One at the end of the chain for a finger pull and the 2nd located to slip over a steel pin into a 2x4 plate screwed to the bottom of the rafters.

With the chain hanging free, the gate is in the open position.
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Pulled down and slipped over the pin, the gate is now closed.
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