Jet Joiner Any Good?

[jason lambert]

I need to get a small joiner and since the bench top ones are worthless it is time to invest in something real. So I was looking at a
JET 708457K JJ-6CSX 6-Inch 1 Horsepower Jointer
are these any good? I am a hobbiest so I don't need anything really good just something that will work.

Also anyone know of a good moibal base for these? Amazon has on but it didn't seem to got good reviews.

[Pat Germain]

I've had my eye on this same Jointer and would also appreciate any comments about it. I was surprised to see my local Woodcraft had the best price around for this jointer. Then it went up by $50 two weeks ago.

I recently installed a Rockler "Universal Mobile Base" (part #92051) on my contractor saw and it's quite nice. You have to buy hardwood for the frame rails and therefore must add roughly $6.00 per rail to the price. I've seen jointers with this same mobile base installed.

[jason lambert]

Yea I just found that out Jet had a price increase about a month ago. Anyhow my dealer Force Machinery is really good and knows his stuff so I trust this is the best for the price but it never hurts to look, also upgrading to the next model he said had some advantages but may not be worth it for the amount I will use it.

[Larry Rose]

I've had the Jet 6" jointer for about 2 years now and I have no complaints. There was very little adjusting required to set the machine up. The only reason I would get a new jointer would be to go to 8".

[Pat Germain]

^^ I've heard other people say it's best to just buy an 8" jointer if at all possible and not even bother with a 6". Would you agree? If so, I might start looking harder at a 8" Steel City jointer I've seen at Woodcraft.

[Gary Keedwell]

^^ I've heard other people say it's best to just buy an 8" jointer if at all possible and not even bother with a 6". Would you agree? If so, I might start looking harder at a 8" Steel City jointer I've seen at Woodcraft.

If I had to do it all over again, I would have started with the 8". My next and last one will be bigger then an eight.

Gary K.

[jason lambert]

What are you guys using the 8" for? Most of the stuff I do is 3/4 inch boards outting them together. Most I can see is maybe plaining a 4x4.

[Merle Clor]

I had the 6" Jet and it was okay for most of my needs, but I started using wider boards and sold the Jet. I will get either an 8" G0480 or the G0593 with the spiral head. I would love to get a 12" jointer, but as a hobbyist I find it difficult to justify that expense. FWIW.
Merle

[Jim Thiel]

Ianyone know of a good moibal base for these?

I'm not sure which one amazon is pimping at the moment, but I have HTC under all my stuff and love them. The new ones work really well with the foot brakes.

Jim

[Dennis Peacock]

Here's the jointer you need. This (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=32905) is the best jointer that I've ever had, and I've a a few. :D

[Greg Crawford]

I bought a Grizzly G1018 used several years ago, and it's been one of the best tools in my shop (along with my Unisaw). It has adjustment levers, which I thought I wouldn't like much, but they work great. Since then, every jointer review I've seen in a woodworking magazine has listed the Grizzly as one of the best, plus they're priced reasonably. As for the 8" capacity, that's for flattening rough-cut lumber. If you get your wood finished on 4 sides, you may never have a need for the larger machine, but I'd think long and hard first. I'm ready for a 10 or 12".

Happy hunting.

[David Tiell]

I've had the JJ-6CS for about 8 years now. I've always been extremely happy with the quality and performance, and I don't think you can go wrong with one. But I'm looking into upgrading to an 8", considering the Grizzly, ShopFox, or Steel City, because trying to flatten the face of a 6" board on a 6" jointer is just pushing the limit. I would recommend going bigger than 6" if you can afford to, but if not, or you're not going to work aything wider than 6", the JJ-6 is a great choice.

Nobody mentioned actual prices above. I checked Toolseeker.com, and the best price shown for one is $449 plus shipping at Rockler. There is also somebody with one for sale in the classified section, depending one where you are located.

[Pat Germain]

Here's the jointer you need. This (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=32905) is the best jointer that I've ever had, and I've a a few. :D

That's a way cool tool, Dennis, but I expect I'd have to take out a second mortgage to buy it.

[jason lambert]

I was also thinking of getting a Dewalt or steel city 13" plainer to complament the joiner.
http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/products_tools.cfm?section=2&category=9&tool=40200

In that case I wouldn't need a bigger joiner correct? I never thought of doing boards with wise on them. Where I live in NJ, summit, it is actually pretty hard to get unfinished lumber.

[Pat Germain]

In that case I wouldn't need a bigger joiner correct?

Actually, that's incorrect. I learned this only recently. Apparently, you have to have one, truly flat side, square to the edges, in order for the stock to be square after you run it through the planer. The only way to get one side truly flat and square to the edges is running one flat side on a jointer first. Then you can run the other side, and subsequently both sides, through the planer.

Am I describing this correctly?

[David Tiell]

I was also thinking of getting a Dewalt or steel city 13" plainer to complament the joiner.
http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/products_tools.cfm?section=2&category=9&tool=40200

In that case I wouldn't need a bigger joiner correct? I never thought of doing boards with wise on them. Where I live in NJ, summit, it is actually pretty hard to get unfinished lumber.
I can't talk to the Dewalt or the Steel City planers as I have never used them, but I love my Delta 22-580 13" two-speed planer. Plus, I just checked, and Amazon has it listed for just under $300. Hard to beat at that price.

[David Tiell]

Actually, that's incorrect. I learned this only recently. Apparently, you have to have one, truly flat side, square to the edges, in order for the stock to be square after you run it through the planer. The only way to get one side truly flat and square to the edges is running one flat side on a jointer first. Then you can run the other side, and subsequently both sides, through the planer.

Am I describing this correctly?
For the most part, yes, Pat. The trick is to flatten one side on the jointer. Then use that flat face against the fence to square up an edge. From there, go to the planer to flatten the opposite face parallel with the first, then the table saw to rip it to get an edge parallel to the first edge. Using this technique will give you truly flat material to work with, and will save you the pain and heartache that using twisted lumber will give you down the road. I learned that from experience.

[Pat Germain]

I can't talk to the Dewalt or the Steel City planers as I have never used them, but I love my Delta 22-580 13" two-speed planer. Plus, I just checked, and Amazon has it listed for just under $300. Hard to beat at that price.

I bought the same planer a few weeks ago and I'm very happy with it. Be sure to get the "optional" dust collector attachment. Otherwise, your shop might look like a dust collector exploded. I don't remember exactly what I paid, but it was on sale at Rockler. Most folks seem to prefer the 3-knife DeWalt, but the cost difference was enough to steer me toward the Delta.

Right now I'm not sure the two speeds are necessary, but perhaps I'll eventually find out they are.

[David Weaver]

I bought the same planer a few weeks ago and I'm very happy with it. Be sure to get the "optional" dust collector attachment. Otherwise, your shop might look like a dust collector exploded. I don't remember exactly what I paid, but it was on sale at Rockler. Most folks seem to prefer the 3-knife DeWalt, but the cost difference was enough to steer me toward the Delta.

Right now I'm not sure the two speeds are necessary, but perhaps I'll eventually find out they are.

I also have the 22-580. It does an excellent job, and I'd recommend it to anyone getting a lunchbox planer.

[Matt Day]

As many others have said, I'd recommend going to an 8" if you can. I had a 6" Delta X5 and liked it, but I was limited to the boards I could face joint. Most of the stock I buy at the yard are around 8", which means I couldn't use the 6" jointer without cutting it down to size. And with a 6" jointer it's nearly impossible to get a final width of 6".

IF, and I stress IF, you don't work with boards over 6" wide, go with the 6" jointer. But if you work with boards over 6" even 10% of the time, I would be you'll regret the 6" jointer like I did. My opinion: save your money and invest in an 8". I got my 8" Shop Fox for just over $700 new, shipped.

If you don't have the time, money, or room, go with the 6".

Good luck!

[Bob Reeve]

I have had the Jet Jointer and have zero issues with the unit. I do plan on upgrading to a larger unit when I can.

When you are truing and squaring lumber, you must joint a face flat. If you are using a 8" wide board with a 6" jointer you must rip it into 2 pieces to true and square and then glue them back together. I hope someday to have a 12" jointer. Must have more (much more) space.

Bob

[Randy Denby]

I just wanted to add...Even s4s lumber will likely have a little cupping on the wide surface.It really steps up your woodworking several notches when you start working with truly flat and parrallel surfaces.

Also, I started with a 6" jet jointer. It was a good machine, but realized quickly that it wasn't wide enough. I am wanting a 12" now as my DJ20 8" is borderline sometimes.

[Larry Fox]

I had one and it was a very good jointer but soon upgraded to an 8". Changing the blades on the Jet is a hoot to say the least. Whatever way you go, I would recommend looking in the used market as the Jet ones pop up fairly frequently used for $250 - $300.

[Brian Clevenger]

I found mine very lightly used over two years ago. I'm about needing to install my third set of knives for it, and I haven't had a single complaint. A couple of months ago I went after it with a straight edge and angles, and it has stayed true (even after accidentally getting moved by the beds a couple of times).

I manage to get by, but an 8" would be ideal. Most of the wood I find is 6-7.5". Of course most of my milled parts are much smaller. It would just be nice to mill all of the stock at once; without having to go through the extra steps of figuring and ripping the rough stock before it is milled.