TS questions (yes, I've read the forums!)

[daniel lane]

Hello, all -

As the subject says, Yes I've Read The Forums, but I still have some questions and would like to ask the opinions of all of you. Some background:
I am looking to purchase a TS soon, next month or so.
I have a limited budget for TS and several other tools, so a PM or SawStop is out of the question.
I'm limited to a 30" table because of the workshop, and I don't see a need to the larger table for quite some time.
I recently had a new subpanel added in the basement, but no wiring is in place yet - 110V or 220V is available, I just have to run the wires.
It's a basement shop, in case that was missed in the bullet above!
I've been looking at the Steel City 35670 or 35675, I like the saws a lot and the price looks great. (I'm just sad I missed the rebates!)and finally,
My primary purpose is for (indoor) furniture building
We may not be in this house for more than another 3-5 years, who knows where we'll go from here (if anywhere!)?I'm thinking that for the extra $100, it's worth it to go for the 3hp/220 TS (vs. 1.75ph 110/200), but money goes a long way and how much am I really going to use the higher hp? I'm all for the ToolTime grunt, but when am I really going to notice the difference in the hp? Forcing myself to 220V seems like an added expense, especially when/if we move and I have to rewire a shop. But dang, I like the idea of being able to feed stock more easily/faster! I guess I'm waffling and looking for some guidance, so how's about some help? Is the extra hp worth the forced 220V (with subsequent costs)?

Also, has anyone ever moved a TS before with professional movers? Should I consider a decent contractor's saw until I know we've settled down for a while?

Thanks in advance for the advice, guys - I'm feeling like analysis paralysis is kicking in, and need to shake it off! :)



daniel

P.S. Limited budget will be spent on TS, dust control, planer, jointer, and accessories. Yep, I get to do that much in one go (assuming I keep it in the budget)!

[Nancy Laird]

Daniel, In my not-so-humble opinion, you can NOT go wrong by buying the Steel City saw - either one of them. They are very well-built, come out of the box ready to roll, and there is a 5-year warranty on their machines. We bought the 15" planer and 6" wedge-bed jointer recently and we are very happy with them.

As far as moving them, we've moved twice with large machines, and didn't have any trouble either time. As long as you are around to supervise the packing and loading, you should be okay.

Nancy

[Mike Cutler]

Daniel.

Either of those would be fine machines. The 3hp obviously has more "butt" down the line, but the 1.75 will cut just fine.

Horsepower buys you the ability to work a saw longer at a given load, and increase longevity, and the ability to handle thicker harder materials, assuming the blades are equal, with less stress on the machine. Longer rips on harder materials would tilt the table to the 3hp for me.

30" is fine. I have two 30" tablesaws back to back,one a General "Hybrid" and the other a Jet "Contractorsaw". If you get to the point where you are breaking down sheetgoods frequently, a wider saw may be in order. With the edge guide systems available for circular saw though, you may never need this capacity.

IMO. The fence is as important as the saw. Buy the best fence you can afford, even if it means compromising on the saw. An accurate, repeatable fence makes any saw easier to use. Either of those saws with a good fence will build all the furniture you want to.

I wouldn't consider a Contractor Saw simply for the thought of moving. There isn't that much weight savings and the dust collection will be much better with the saws you have referenced. If you have a basement shop, dust collection will become a big deal.

110 vs. 220 can be debated until the cows come home. My preference is 220 for machines, so that I can't plug them into receptacles that share a lighting circuit, but watts is watts in the end. You still may want to consider some 220 runs. The better( More efficient and higher CFM) dust collectors all run on 220 due to motor sizing.

Of the two saws you spec'd. I'd go for the 3HP model just for some extra "butt" should you ever need it.

[Don Bullock]

I must admit that before I bought my 5 hp SS I had a 1 hp Crafsman (and Sears tends to overrate their hp). While the saw did bog down a few times on me, it did have enough power for most of the work that I did -- mostly making furniture like you're talking about. Having said that I'd still recommend the 3 hp, especially if you plan to cut a lot of hardwood.

[Richard Niemiec]

As far as moving the saw, I moved a 3hp Unisaw with a 52 inch unifence twice. Both times I partially disassembled the saw, took off the fence rails, blade guard, side iron extension table and the main extension table, took off the power switch (they tend to get whacked as they just hang down off the table) and got boxes and packing paper from them in advance and packed up the parts myself. Did the same type of thing with the lathe, drill press, removed and partially disassembled to lighten the weight. The joiner was an issue, as they tended to want to lift it by the tables and so you have to watch them. I actually built a small box to fit over the compressor mechanicals and "U" bolted it down to protect the working parts. I also packed up all my other hand and hand-held power tools, not trusting them as things tend to get "lost" in moves, not marking the boxes other than to say "basement." Many "professional" movers hire day labor from less than auspicious sources, give them nice new tee shirts and hats, and such. I've had three relocation moves and each time I "lost" several boxes of semi valuable items like CDs and portable electronics, and it is telling that the moving companies paid up without question. They even "lost" one of my 12 foot stepladers! Moving day is very stressful and its hard to keep count of everything, and by the time you find stuff missing, its several days later. With my shop tools, I marked the contents of the boxes on the insides of the box flaps and taped them all up really good, numbering the boxes "1 of 18", "2 of 18" to make it easy to keep track. Good luck.

RN

[Don Bullock]

Richard, those are some great ideas for moving shop equipment. I've only done it once and it's not easy. I remember my dad kept the wood crates that his lathe and drill press came in. As a kid I always wondered why we had them taking up shop space until our next move, and quickly discovered the reason. My next planned move will not be far -- about 200 miles in a couple of years. I already have a friend and his truck with a lift gate lined up for the shop tools. It's also possible to rent a truck for them, but the rental firms seem to restrict trucks with lift gates to businesses.

[Paul Douglass]

I have the Steel City 35618 TS and love it. My only minor caveat is Steel City new so it is harder to get accessories for. Also you might go to Amazon and search cabinet saws. They are having some great deals on delta and jet. Most have 50" fence but for the price I would buy the saw and cut the fence rails down if need be.

[Randal Stevenson]

How far would you be moving? Same general area or across states?

If I were looking at moving across states in 3 years, while I like your tablesaw choices, I would also strongly consider, getting a used contractor saw, then selling it in a moving sale. Around these parts they tend to vary between $75 and $150, and saw a good one listed this weekend (with a good fence), for $150.

On the other hand, you could get lucky. I've had two friends who sold houses, and the people wanted their stuff. One sold the shop with the house (was moving to an assisted living), and one younger one, sold almost the entire contents. (took an out of state job, and was got moving expense money, used that to buy new at the new place).

[walter stellwagen]

I would worry less about the power (3vs1.5) than the trunions many 1.5-2 hp
cabinet saws are contractor saws moved over to a cabinet. The trunions are light weight , poorly attached ,and difficult to keep in adjustment
DAMHIK
Walt

[jon shocky]

if you key wood search the forum or google youll find all your answers

[Eugene A. Manzo III]

In My Opinion Amazon is having some unbeleivable sales on jet saws right now. I also like the Ridgid TS3650 contractor saw or the Craftsman Professional 1 3/4 HP cabinet saw with Bicemyer fence (Very Nice Saw).
Would somebody help me spell that fence name :confused:

[scott spencer]

Hi Daniel - There's really no right or wrong answer here...just a choice....go with what makes sense to you. I've got the Craftsman 22124, which is an Orion made saw that's very similar to the 1-3/4hp SC model. I love the saw and with the correct blade and good alignment, it'll cut to full blade height in hardwoods without much complaint. That said, I'd still be inclined to go for the 3hp motor for another $100...the cash probably won't mean alot 6 months from now, but that big motor will loaf through anything for as long as you have the saw. In the overall scheme of things it'll be a very small percentage increase, but should have a fairly noticeable impact. The bigger motor is also less sensitive to blade selection.

Good luck and post back with pics once you've make your decision.

[Al Willits]

Biesemeyer.....:D

Al