Upgrading bandsaw motor

[Burt Alcantara]

I've got a Grizzly G0555. The motor is rated at 1hp. I'd like to boost it to 2hp. Are there any issues with mounts? Can I use a stock Baldor or Leeson motor "out of the box," or do I have to use Grizzly brand only?

The Grizz motor appears to be mounted to the frame with two hexkey bolts. Not sure if that's the right description but the head uses an Allen wrench.

Thanks,
Burt

[Pete Bradley]

Questions about boosting band saw motors come up on woodworking forums quite regularly. Here's my recommended decision tree:

Why do you want a new motor?

1. My saw is bogging on deep cuts or green wood:
Are you using a sharp, good quality thin-kerf band with a TPI of 3 or less (NOT the band that came with the machine)? If not, call a good band supplier like Suffolk Machinery for advice on what you need.
Are you running a wider band than you need or your machine can easily handle? It's not uncommon for a machine to perform poorly if you run the biggest band it will take. For example some models have 3/4" capacity but may run much better at 3/8" or 1/2".
Are you running your machine through an extension cord or on a circuit with other loads? This can reduce power and put undue load on your motor. Eliminate cords and/or go to 220V. If you have to use an extension, use one conservatively rated for the amps and length.
Make sure the workpiece is well supported so it can't twist or tilt during the cut.
2. My saw is bogging when I try to slice logs, especially green ones:
Logs are challenging and green logs more so. Check out question 1 first. If your machine tends to bog partway through the cut, it may be that the log is not sufficiently supported. You need to be sure the log can't roll even a little. One way to do this is to joint one side flat and run that down the table. You may also need to insert a wedge into the kerf behind the blade to avoid it closing in on the blade.
3. I want to cut green logs and/or pallets all day:
Was your machine designed for heavy duty work/abuse? It may not be worth putting on a big motor, especially if your machine is an introductory or hobbyist model.
Single-phase motors over 1 HP are not cheap, and used single phase motors over 1HP are less easy to find than most. If you have 3-phase, that's a cheaper way to go. Be cautious of HP ratings, especially on import motors. If the price looks too good to be true, the motor is likely to be overrated, inferior type(e.g. split phase), not rated for continuous duty, etc.
If you have the room, power, and will, big old cast iron band saws are frequently available for less than $1K. However, you need a way to move them and they're usually 3-phase. Don't plan to move one down a flight of stairs.
4. My neighbor just bought a no-name band saw with a "3 HP" motor and he told me mine is underpowered:
Smile, congratulate him on his purchase, and get back to woodworking.

As one more data point, I have a much bigger machine that runs fine on 1 HP. If you do decide to go with a swap, it's almost certainly a standard c-frame motor. If you take the original motor to your local motor shop, they can match it up.

Pete

[Dick Sylvan]

I have a similar question. I want to go from a 1/2 hp motor (1725 rpm) to a 1-1/2 hp on my Delta 14" open stand BS and add a riser. My saw has a frame listed as 56Z and I see 56H,56c, but not 56Z, at least on the size motor I am looking for. Can anybody help about this nomenclature or give me a website to go to? Thanks.

[Pete Bradley]

"Z" means it mostly conforms to a 56 frame, but the shaft is different. It could be dual-shaft, different shaft diameter, flatted, etc. You'll want to know what the difference is before you commit to a swap. They make 56-frame 1.5HP motors, and I wouldn't be surprised if the swap was not too bad. A decent motor, a riser block, and whatever mods you'll have to make will cost a chunk of change that would make a nice downpayment on a bigger saw though.

Pete

[Burt Alcantara]

Pete,
I've got a 1/2" 3tpi. I'm assuming this is a "regular" blade. It's from BCSaw. I'm going to try out the Timberwolf AS series. I think they will cut substantially better.

I wired the motor for 220 1ph. The cord goes directly to the power. I have other tools on the same line but have to run the DC on the same line at the same time. I haven't noticed any drop in power or suction. The line is 30 amps dedicated. The DC supposedly takes only 8 amps. The DC is also wired directly to the power.

I'm building a crosscut for logs and using the same jig with modifiers for ripping. Current problem is blade deflection. This may be caused by not using a jig and the blade. Also, my guide is totally shot. It needs to be replaced. Suggestions?

I thinking very hard about just buying a new saw. Would like a 20" Agazzani but would be happy (I think/hope) with a Grizzly G0514X - 19" 3hp 1ph - $1188 delivered. Agazzani probably double++.

Won't have the money for a while, 6-18 months at best. Worst is shop is in basement with 82" ceiling. I'm an old skinny guy. I don't know how many guys can fit into the staircase carrying 385lbs (Grizzly).

Your comments are very helpful.
Burt

[James Carmichael]

The 1/2" 3 TPI hook blades from BCSaw are excellent. I would still be using them except the shipping from Canada was just too much.

If you're bogging down cutting thick green logs, the blade may not have enough set, or, as Pete pointed out, your stock may need support in the form of a sled or by jointing a flat on the log to ride on the table.

[Pete Bradley]

Burt,

I use thin-kerf silicon steel (aka "Timberwolf") bands pretty much exclusively. These bands are very power-efficient and I've had good luck with their 1/2" 3tPI for logs. Supposedly the AS band is even better for logs.

The key to logs is keeping them from tilting or closing in on the band. If they roll by even a degree they'll bog the machine. That means you need a good flat side with no twist riding on the table, or you need the whole log firmly attached to something that will run straight. Certain woods like white oak gum up the band quickly and that will cause bogging too.

I know what you mean about basement shops. We had three guys moving just the cabinet of my late-40s Delta 20" saw. Fully assembled it weighs 600 lb, so it's not going anywhere. It's worth the hassle though to have that big machine in place.

Pete

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