Jointer for 3'-4' boards

[Raymond Stanley]

Hi All,
Once I finish my workbench, I'll be dimensioning 2-4' stock for a while before I graduate to longer boards (which will require a longer bench (which will require a bigger living space)). I want to get a #7 because it seems like a good compromise, but am concerned that it will be too big for the 2'-4' boards. I've heard 1/2 to 1/3 of the board's length is the optimal plane length to joint with......the #7 i'm looking at is 22 inches; but there is also a #6 that is 18 inches. By the 1/2 to 1/3 rule, that puts the #7 best for 3'8" to 5'6" boards, and the #6 best for 3' to 4'6". I'd like to just get the #7 and be done with it. What do you all think? What have people's experiences been with jointer planes on shorter boards? Should I just get a #6 now and a #8 later, or will a #7 do ok for both? Or maybe a #5...? Ideally I would just own a whole fleet and then decide later...but that isn't gonna happen soon.
Thanks as always to everybody for their wonderful help.
Ray

[Brian Kent]

My #7 works fine for 2' to 4' boards. It also worked well for 6', which is as far as I've tried it.

[Jon Toebbe]

In my (admitedly limited) experience, the #7's extra mass will help you keep it moving with wobbling or deflecting if the wood's grain does something odd. This is exactly what you want in a jointer plane.

That said, I'd still like to get a nice #6. And a #8. And... oh dear, this slope sure is getting steep!

Cheers,
Jon

[Robert Rozaieski]

For jointing, longer is always better, regardless of stock length (unless you are talking real small stuff of course). For standard furniture sized pieces, the number 7 will joint shorter boards as well as longer boards and is therefore a better choice. I do all my edge jointing with a 28" transitional (even on 18" boards). I use my #7 as a try plane for flattening faces.

I think the 'rule' you are referring to (if you want to call it a rule) really refers to the longest stock you should try to joint with a particular plane, but not the shortest. However, it is really a general guideline and certainly not gospel. You can very well joint an 8' length with a #7 or #8.

[Raymond Stanley]

Great Info! Thanks!

[Eddie Darby]

Get the #8 and don't look back!

I've held the #7 and #8 bench planes by LN and the #8 has authority!

Then get a #5 and forget the #6.

Mass Mass Mass ..... the three most important things in a jointer plane!

[Raymond Stanley]

Thanks for the info! So what would you all say, in general, is the minimum length of a board to joint for a given plane length? I imagine anything less than the length of the plane itself could be more difficult to flatten.

[Clint Jones]

Thanks for the info! So what would you all say, in general, is the minimum length of a board to joint for a given plane length? I imagine anything less than the length of the plane itself could be more difficult to flatten.

If you a piece of stock shorter than your jointer use a smaller plane like a No.5 or No.6 . A no.7 is really as long as you will need for a jointer. I have several No.8's and I always reach for my 607.

[Eddie Darby]

I own a #7 Stanley and have jointed 15" boards with it just fine. No minimum found here.
I've also jointed long boards with very short planes. You have to do more checking and chase the humps with a short plane. A nice extremely flat edge ruler helps here to find the bumps.
The longer plane just takes a lot of the checking out of the picture. In a way it makes it less demanding on the operator. You still need the proper technique, and a sharp blade etc. etc.

The better the tool, the better the job. . . . . but you have to know how to do the job. :)

The difference in length of the LN planes is #7 - 22" , #8 - 24" not a huge difference.

The difference in weight is #7 - 8 1/4 pounds, #8 - 10 pounds !!!!!!

Forget the 2 inches and get the extra almost 2 pounds.

[Robert Rozaieski]

Agree, no minimum.

[David Weaver]

I think anyone here who has used a hand plane will vouch for it being easier to get a precise glass smooth edge with a plane than it is with any machine.

I just used a LN #8 for the first time yesterday, and it was the easiest I've jointed anything - and it was intense curly maple. Through shavings until the edge is flat, and one or two stop shavings to get a slight hollow in the center (like .004" slight), and you're off to the glue races with a joint that's just hard to get anywhere else.

If you have some patience and a very flat surface, you can get a #8 bailey for probably $100- complete with no broken parts, and once you lap the sole and tune the thing, it'll do anything that the LN plane will. I didn't believe that at first until I tuned a couple of turn of the century bailey planes - and they work just as well if you're willing to put the time in to make them right.

If you have the money, though, a #8 from LN is never going to be a bad investment, and you won't have to fool around trying to flatten a 24" cast iron surface.

I may be backwards, but I've never been able to get a machine jointer to do as accurate of a job - especially if you're working with something where tearout can be a problem.

[Eddie Darby]

I don't like the boring job of lapping, yet I seem to be doing it a lot.

I own some planes that I lapped back in the late 80's and I had to do them again just the other week.

The advantage of the LN planes is that they are more stable, ductile iron called nodular, so I hope that I will not have to do anymore lapping again!!!!:rolleyes:

[David Weaver]

Eddie - I'm not a fan of it either, but I get a kick out of making something that hasn't worked for decades and decades work as well as a brand new high dollar plane. I also like things that have a "patina" on them - don't know why - just do. Age is something you can't buy with money.

I have a bunch of LN stuff, too, which is obviously very good users. I probably will always have the mix of the two, and I'm not done buying LN stuff just because I have figured out how find old planes and make them work as well as an LN.

My shoulders and arms are sore today from lapping a plane yesterday.

If I was buying a plane purely as a user, and a copy of the original Stanley Bench Planes, it would be an LN all the way. Every one I've put the starrett edge against has been right on from the factory.

[James Owen]

Hi All,
Once I finish my workbench, I'll be dimensioning 2-4' stock for a while before I graduate to longer boards (which will require a longer bench (which will require a bigger living space)). I want to get a #7 because it seems like a good compromise, but am concerned that it will be too big for the 2'-4' boards. I've heard 1/2 to 1/3 of the board's length is the optimal plane length to joint with......the #7 i'm looking at is 22 inches; but there is also a #6 that is 18 inches. By the 1/2 to 1/3 rule, that puts the #7 best for 3'8" to 5'6" boards, and the #6 best for 3' to 4'6". I'd like to just get the #7 and be done with it. What do you all think? What have people's experiences been with jointer planes on shorter boards? Should I just get a #6 now and a #8 later, or will a #7 do ok for both? Or maybe a #5...? Ideally I would just own a whole fleet and then decide later...but that isn't gonna happen soon.
Thanks as always to everybody for their wonderful help.
Ray


Ray,

As others have said, the general rule for jointing is "longer is better." However there is practicality, too.

For jointing and face flattening, I normally reach for my #8C (an old Sargent VBM), but when jointing boards that are less than about 3 feet long, the first plane that usually comes to hand is an old Union #6C. I find that the #6 size plane is very handy for mid-sized projects, and puts just as flat an edge/face on a short(er) board as the #8 does (as long as you do your part....). The #6 is also a bit handier to cart around, if you have to take it somewhere for work or a class, etc.

[OK, OK: I'm one of them weird guys that likes the #6.......]

For edge-jointing the 2' - 4' boards that you're planning to work with now, any of a #6, #7, #8, or a 24" - 36" wooden jointer plane will work just fine.

One thing you might consider is future projects, and buy the plane that will serve you well now, as well as in the future. That could save you a few dollars, and still give you all the capability you need.