Router table fence-straight or split

[Dick Heifner]

Hi All,
I've built a router table with a straight fence. I'am having trouble with the workpiece getting hungup on the fence opening past the router bit. Do I need to create a split fence or do something else? Should I kick the left side of the fence back? Any thoughts?
Thank's,
Dick

[Ken Consaul]

Just take a file or some coars sandpaper and slightly break the edge on the outfeed side. That should stop the hangup. I did the same on the slots where the fence slides and at the hole for the router plate. Just slightly on the outfeed side only. The slight roundover will allow the square edge of the work to slide over any potential hangups.

[Bill Huber]

Just take a file or some coars sandpaper and slightly break the edge on the outfeed side. That should stop the hangup. I did the same on the slots where the fence slides and at the hole for the router plate. Just slightly on the outfeed side only. The slight roundover will allow the square edge of the work to slide over any potential hangups.

But if the fence is flat then why would it catch on the outfeed fence.
Now if you are taking some of the wood off the edge of the board I could see that but if you are not it should not catch if the fence is flat.

Just asking to better understand it.

[Ken Consaul]

The fence may be flat but often the workpiece isn't or has some twist where the corner of it might hang on the table. If the OP has work hanging, its either the fence or the work is slightly off from straight. The sanding or filing will help or eliminate.

[glenn bradley]

A picture would help. I have a split fence and sometimes experience the same thing. This is only when I am removing enough of the edge (as opposed to profiling) to remove the reference edge as a support. Bull nose is an example.

I did ease the edge of the outfeed fence-face to help with this but on a single piece fence I'd have to say your piece is bending due to tension release or is not true to start. Either way a split fence allows independent adjustment and you can compensate.

[Phil Pritchard]

Are you doing a cut which machines the entire vertical face of the material? If so you need a split fence, if not then take a leaf out of the professional spindle moulder (shaper) user's book and install a false softwood fence or plastic insert where the cutter only just breaks through the fence/insert, providing a "zero clearance" insert in effect. This type of one-piece fence ensures that the work piece is adequately support on the exit from the cutter in addition to limiting any chip out.

Phil

[pat warner]

Most table cuttings are not full thickness cuts. As such, a split fence is unneccesary except that you can slide the halves (http://patwarner.com/images/f_opening.jpg) closer together for safety reasons. A curtain fence (http://patwarner.com/images/new_fence.jpg)(this one in transparent plastic) is continuous, allows just the right amount of cutter exposure & no place for the work to jam. Moreover, your hands will have a hard time getting to the cutter.
Notwithstanding, if the work is not straight & square, the cuttings will vary as you measure them down the length of the stick.
More on this system: See link. (http://patwarner.com/router_table_cd.html)

[Dick Heifner]

Hi All,
I tried rounding over the leading edge on the out feed side and It works better. I forgot to mention that I have an adjustable split fence mounted on a fixed straight fence with a dust collection box in the middle.
Thank's for the help.
Dick

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Most table cuttings are not full thickness cuts. As such, a split fence is unneccesary except that you can slide the halves (http://patwarner.com/images/f_opening.jpg) closer together for safety reasons.

What he said - and - that you can use it for edge jointing small stuff. I didn't bother with a split fence. If I want to edge joint I can double-stick-tape a playing card to the out-feed side of the fence